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My bet is, it's the thermostat like he said. A very common issue. When you search for thermostat's you will get a lot of stupid info. Your car needs a 194* thermostat. Make sure it's the correct temp, and not a "liketodo" thermostat. I think part number,,,,
$100 and one below it for $30. Looks like the same # ??maybe that would explain the thought about defective parts. Depending on where you buy and from whom. Knock offs, Chinese counterfeits???
Ebay and Amazon are good markets for Chinese counterfeits, unless you trust the seller (like ACDelco on Amazon). I'd be wary of thermostats in the $30 range when the OEM units are ~$70.
So with a 174* thermostat your car heats up to the normal 220* ish coolant temp during normal driving?
Not even close!!! If your car is hitting 220* normal driving around then something is wrong plus it will be pulling timing like crazy. My car pretty much stays between 180*-185* unless I am stopped in traffic where it will see 194ish.
Nope, my car doesn't pull timing. Are you talking about oil temp, water temp, or engine temp? They are all different. My 2014 runs at a VERY constant 220* coolant temp, the way it was designed to. The 2014 OEM thermostat is 204*. Never has been an issue, hot summer days, or at 25*F out. I do get about a 10* difference hot days vs cold days.
I was driving my 2015 in 9 degree weather for the most part I stayed around 150-160 mostly at highway speeds, no check engine light
You are talking about coolant temp? If you are,,,, you will have a yellow---red warning caution ring around your tach. No where close to required operating temp. Nope.. you wont get any check engine lights,,,, just red and yellow warning rings.
You are talking about coolant temp? If you are,,,, you will have a yellow---red warning caution ring around your tach. No where close to required operating temp. Nope.. you wont get any check engine lights,,,, just red and yellow warning rings.
As long as it can get up to the desired temp within the time the ECM thinks it should, why would there be an issue?
Do you mean GM desired temp? If the car isn't up to GM's required temp, you will see yellow and red warning rings. It would seem the GM engineers thought it was important enough to have warnings rings when the engine isn't up to what THEY think is important.
As long as it can get up to the desired temp within the time the ECM thinks it should, why would there be an issue?
Originally Posted by kodpkd
Do you mean GM desired temp? If the car isn't up to GM's required temp, you will see yellow and red warning rings. It would seem the GM engineers thought it was important enough to have warnings rings when the engine isn't up to what THEY think is important.
On our 2017 Z51, the red/yellow rings appear to be controlled only by coolant temperature. Over the years I've had many situations where the oil temp increased more slowly or more rapidly than "normal", but the rings always disappeared at the same coolant temps. I don't have my notes with me, but sometimes the rings have disappeared with oil temps that were well below what seem to "normal".
Unfortunately, we don't know what the GM criteria are for "warm enough". Are these the temps where full power operation is just fine, or maybe a little extra wear on the engine, or you're really abusing things but it probably won't blow up today? We don't know. Member LDB knows more about lubricating oils than most of us but even he doesn't know GM's criteria, IIRC he likes to see something above 160'F for oil before the fun starts.
To play it safe, I try to avoid full power use until the coolant temp is ~194'F (thermostat) and oil is 175'F (recommended temp for checking oil level).
Your engine, your choices.
I totally agree. The issue is, some people don't even respect the tach yellow warning, and are ok with even lower engine temperatures. Yes, if you wait for both oil temp and coolant temp to get up to normal, all the better.