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Seems like a lifter failure would cause a heck of an oil cloud following this thing around in addition to the noise. I suspect the whole rear end would be covered in oil as well. If there is no oil on the back end, it's hard to think that it's going through the exhaust. If there is no oil on the bottom, it's hard to believe that an oil filter gasket or housing or other seal may have failed. I'm going to assume that he managed to get more than 4 or 5 quarts of oil in it last time it was changed, whenever that was. I guess an oil pump failure is a possibility.
Sounds like a rebuild to me. There is likely some stuff in the engine that will need to be flushed out. Good luck.
I don’t understand how it could be empty of oil without you knowing it. That’s a lot to leak, and there would be oil everywhere underneath and on the back of it. If it was run without oil, as appears to be the case, the knocking is likely loose rod bearings. It could also be wiped lifters and flattened cam lobes. The engine is, unfortunately, probably in need of major repairs.
hello, this is the same thing im saying. How did it not give me a warning light ever? I can only assume it blew and leaked it all but we really have not found any leak yet or stains. I put oil on it monday night and its now Wednesday, not a drop of oil on my driveway!
Bone dry as in you pulled the drain plugs and nothing came out, or you looked at the dipstick in the oil tank?
dip stick. I do not have a low profile jack, the one i had was stolen. my brother took it and his van got broken into and pretty much everything was taken. Im getting one today to check everything underneath but as i said in my previous reply, not one drop of oil on my driveway since monday that i refilled it
If it didnt leak out, it blew it out. Usually a sign of a camshaft or a valve lifter problem. Either way it can be repaired if no serious engine damage
yes definitely engine is toast. Saturday i have a family member that ive heard is an amazing mechanic and will take the engine apart to check it an see whats up
wondering if a broken valve spring can cause this... as this one is a 2015, so maybe the old spring?. Will the oil will go out (bit by bit) thru the exhaust in that case?
my brother tells me it burned it somehow. This had quad exhaust and two of the tips are blackened compared to the other two where i still see chrome
wondering if a broken valve spring can cause this... as this one is a 2015, so maybe the old spring?. Will the oil will go out (bit by bit) thru the exhaust in that case?
Originally Posted by Steve_R
OP hasn't said when he changed the oil or how many miles since then, but I have a hard time believing it would burn 6-7 quarts of oil due to a broken valve spring. Burning that much oil would leave visible deposits on the back of the car and likely result in smoke from the exhaust.
i would say less than 2k miles, march. It was close to 79k when i did it and it was about to reach 80k which i was already hating. From what i understand it should be every 5k-7k miles depending how often and aggressively its driven or after 12 months if you don't reach the mileage. I drive it maybe twice a week and most of those drives are 20-30 minute, maybe driving an hour or two max when i take my girl out so i also doubt the burning oil and more without ever letting me know it was low on oil pressure. I do however feel guilty that i did not check it weekly or at least monthly, trusting the car would let me know of anything wrong.
So to everyone following this thread. I found some oil.
I have not found any sign under the car yet of a leak. The back is clean, only the exhaust tips are a bit black. Where did i find some? Well, in the intake! Ive taken this off before and never found what i found now. A puddle of oil, and most of the intake covered in what looks to be a dried off but oily substance. Oil around the connection to the throttle body. Now, it is not only oil in there, it also had coolant. A mixture of both. See picture i attach, hopefully i can upload successfully. I dont think this is 5-9qrts of oil in there, perhaps it leaked here constantly or its trapped still in the engine
anyways, i have a mechanic coming saturday to work on it with me, and hopefully we not only see what is damaged but also what caused all this. ive read and been told the dry pump tends to damage on this car and causes it to not pump the oil so it gets stuck in the engine and lines, perhaps this was the issue because where the oil went i still dont know. Could it be that it got stuck and blew the engine, spraying it into the intake?? No idea, just me guessing. If these dry pumps tend to damage this way, without alerting of issues prior to the catastrophic failure, should this not be recalled or something? I cant for the life of me believe this is a known issue, that gives no warning, and gm did nothing about it
again to clarify, i did not receive any alerts or red oil pressure light at any moment since the oil change. My check engine light only showed up after it stalled when i tried turning it on.
in addition, i would like to share the error codes showing to me when i put my reader on it Monday night. Please see picture. All this only showing up after it messed up Errors showing. Intake sensor, throttle body and knock sensor Oil/coolant inside intake
That would be some major blow back into an intake, you'd need to have some serious issues to get that much.
I mean not sure how it was driven if the engine issues are that bad, unless you just broke a timing chain and the think shot the oil into the intake and all over when it failed. But that would be a pretty catastrophic failure.
That would be some major blow back into an intake, you'd need to have some serious issues to get that much.
I mean not sure how it was driven if the engine issues are that bad, unless you just broke a timing chain and the think shot the oil into the intake and all over when it failed. But that would be a pretty catastrophic failure.
So as an update. I think im screwed. It was bone dry in oil, so much that it took 6-8 qrts to get it back to full(1 5qrt container and about half of another). Even if i only added 7 qrts instead of the 9 required qrts the last time i changed the oil(which im pretty sure was not the case) where did it all go?? It couldn't have possibly burned it all in a few months worth of joyrides right?
My brother and i filled it up, I pressed the start button, It again whined up like normal and actually turned on and stayed on….BUT…the noise it was making lets just say wasn’t pretty. Loud knocking or clanking metal to metal type sound and it would have kept going if we hadn't shut it off right then.
Im pretty sure im screwed but does anyone know what it could be? And with wishful thinking could it possibly just need the oil to reach the engine to stop the noise?
Lastly, if it had low oil why the F did it not alert me before it reached an unsafe pressure???
You have a Z51 with the dry sump oil system; when filled to the recommended fill level, the system takes 9.8 quarts of oil. When the engine is cold and the oil has drained out of the reservoir you more than likely won't see any oil level registered on the dipstick. I have been living with the C7 dry sump system for 10+ years on my 15 Z06 and have changed my oil several times per year. When the engine isn't up to temperature (175 degree OIL Temperature not Coolant Temp), the dipstick will not read correctly even with 9.8 quarts of oil (Full) in the system. Filling the oil until it reached the top dot on the dipstick may have greatly overfilled the engine. This is likely the reason you have oil in the intake as the dry sump system will pump oil into the intake when overfilled. If you get it out there shouldn't be a problem due to the overfill.
The first thing you need to do now is to remove both drain plugs and drain all of the oil out of the engine (except for the half quart in the filter). When the oil stops dripping, reinstall the two drain plugs and add 8.5 quarts of fresh oil. If the engine is capable of running, start it and run it until the OIL Temp hits 175+ degrees, shut off the engine, wait 5 minutes and check the dipstick. You will have approximately 9 quarts of oil in the engine and should be able to see the oil level at about the center dot on the dipstick. Ten minutes after engine turn off the dipstick reading will no longer be valid due to oil draining out of the dry sump reservoir and the engine has to be run again until oil for a few minutes or until OIL temperature is above 175+ degrees.
When checking oil level in a C7 Dry Sump Engine, always read the OM. Ever since the GM dry sump system was introduced in the 2006 Z06, there have been many mistakes made when checking the oil level and when changing the oil. All have to do with not following the proper method of checking the oil level. If you are idling the engine in your garage it can take 20 to 25 minutes to reach an Oil Temperature of 175 degrees.
Here is a simple diagram that GM attached to the oil fill on C7 dry sump cars. This is mounted on my dry sump system so mechanics working on my car can read it before doing something foolish:
It shows from left to right the engine running, the oil temperature of 175 degrees, the engine not running and the time period when the oil level can be checked.
You have a Z51 with the dry sump oil system; when filled to the recommended fill level, the system takes 9.8 quarts of oil. When the engine is cold and the oil has drained out of the reservoir you more than likely won't see any oil level registered on the dipstick. I have been living with the C7 dry sump system for 10+ years on my 15 Z06 and have changed my oil several times per year. When the engine isn't up to temperature (175 degree OIL Temperature not Coolant Temp), the dipstick will not read correctly even with 9.8 quarts of oil (Full) in the system. Filling the oil until it reached the top dot on the dipstick may have greatly overfilled the engine. This is likely the reason you have oil in the intake as the dry sump system will pump oil into the intake when overfilled. If you get it out there shouldn't be a problem due to the overfill.
The first thing you need to do now is to remove both drain plugs and drain all of the oil out of the engine (except for the half quart in the filter). When the oil stops dripping, reinstall the two drain plugs and add 8.5 quarts of fresh oil. If the engine is capable of running, start it and run it until the OIL Temp hits 175+ degrees, shut off the engine, wait 5 minutes and check the dipstick. You will have approximately 9 quarts of oil in the engine and should be able to see the oil level at about the center dot on the dipstick. Ten minutes after engine turn off the dipstick reading will no longer be valid due to oil draining out of the dry sump reservoir and the engine has to be run again until oil for a few minutes or until OIL temperature is above 175+ degrees.
When checking oil level in a C7 Dry Sump Engine, always read the OM. Ever since the GM dry sump system was introduced in the 2006 Z06, there have been many mistakes made when checking the oil level and when changing the oil. All have to do with not following the proper method of checking the oil level. If you are idling the engine in your garage it can take 20 to 25 minutes to reach an Oil Temperature of 175 degrees.
Here is a simple diagram that GM attached to the oil fill on C7 dry sump cars. This is mounted on my dry sump system so mechanics working on my car can read it before doing something foolish:
It shows from left to right the engine running, the oil temperature of 175 degrees, the engine not running and the time period when the oil level can be checked.
Bill
amazing info but sadly i was already on the road for about an hour so it was hot for sure already when this happened. I had to pull over to the side of the highway and about 10-20 minutes later was when i checked the oil(thats how long it took my brother to get there). It was probably still over 170°
sadly i cant turn it on anymore, dont want to damage it further. As soon as its turned on, the loud knocking noise begins.
based off your comment though, lets say the oil did not leak, and it was just a bad reading since we took too long to check the oil after car was shut off(more than the 10 minutes you say) what could have caused the random damage to the engine then? Its all so strange
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