this is what i continue to receive as the problem. Lets see. He canceled on me for tomorrow, so will have to wait another week. Tomorrow though i will finally have time to get under it and confirm everything else myself

 

Hello guys, after extensive searching, im almost sure its rod knock. It acts and sounds almost exactly like the car in this video: struggles to turn on and pretty much the same sound when on. Perhaps i have damaged rods, lifters, bearings. And from what ive read, rod knock is usually a really bad sign with most replacements being cheaper than a rebuild. I will be doing the repair with a family mechanic, coming with no labor cost but with this rock knock sound, do you guys believe its even worth rebuilding instead of replacing? Based on parts cost vs engine replacement( 5-10k ive seen only)

 

I called rod knock in a previous post based on your description. With how little many of these are driven you might be able to find a complete low mileage engine from a wrecked car, which could be easier and cheaper than rebuilding yours, and definitely cheaper than a new one.

Good luck whatever you do.

I’m still curious how it ran out of oil.

 

yeah i just couldnt find a similar sounding video until now. Thanks though for bringing it up. Ive found some engines going for 3-4k with around 20k miles, lets see once i open it

 

Free labor?
I think the most expensive part to rebuild versus replace, is not the parts $$$, it's the number of (experienced) labor hours required.

 

I second that

 

Good point.

 

as its a family mechanic, i wont be charged labor. He insisted on it but of course ill still give him something for the job, i dont like not paying someone for their work. Either way i believe it will be much less than the regular labor cost per hour

 

Time to buy a new crate engine, no oil and lots of noise means no more bearings.

 

At one time, GM used to sell rebuilt engines.
My understanding was that the work was done by an outside company, so it could be good or bad.

 

That's fantastic!

Maybe some pizza and beer will suffice.

 

stroke it to a 416 billet rods and pistons ditch the dod /aafm and the vvt cam link bar lifters and double btr springs . che trunnion kit in the rockers .080 was 3/8 pushrods and port the heads now you have a reliable lt motor

 

Hopefully, you will not have to replace your engine but if you do, there are options. I see crate engines for a C7 for $16,000 and used engines with 32,000 miles for $6,500. One has a 90 day warranty and the other, a 30 day warranty. eBay appears to be the least expensive route.


Many owners pay roughly $2,000 to $4,500 in labor alone at a typical shop for an engine swap/replacement on a C7 Stingray. The cost at a dealership could soar to $6,000.

https://603autosalvage.com/used-engi...lacement-cost/

 

Re: the labor cost

Good thing he has a family mechanic!

 

Now that's debatable

 

Hello everyone again, will post some pictures of what we found. We were able to remove the engine yesterday and check it. Still have a bit to open up but so far a piston seems to have been damage, a push rod bent, valve, spring. Coolant found all over, on both cylinder heads but only one seems to have actual damage(driver side). Still some more to inspect but it was too late to continue.
From what my mechanic tells me and what i and my brothers saw, we have two options
1. to replace all pistons, and both cylinder heads along with gaskets, the rods, pretty much every component along with those. That way the engine will run 100% like new basically.
2. replace only whats damaged, so it be the one cylinder head, the one piston and all the components required. Im told if i buy one new piston(if i can even manage to find one individual) the new one will run so well the older ones will be lacking or something like that. But replacing one cylinder head is fine, new one wont affect the other.

Note: i will take both cylinder heads to a shop to inspect and see if repairable. Theres one nearby that specialize on them.

what do you guys recommend? Is replacing the one piston, cylinder head, rod, spring ok? What other things should we look for? What parts must i replace to close it up? Im told theres components that are just one use like some screws, gaskets.

Driver side

Driver side cylinder head

Passenger side cylinder head

Spring snapped in half found on driver side

Rod found on driver side

 

f'k I hate when that happens. Looks like engine replacement time.

 

So what the hell was the cause??? Any way to tell????

 

if you are only replacing broken parts stick them in and sell the heap. if you plan on keeping the car strip it to a bare bock and start from scratch

 

Timing belt broke in my wife’s Nissan years ago. There was interference. Five of the eight valves collided with the pistons of the little four banger. So we had our trusted mechanic replace those five valves. The engine ran so rough that we took it back to the mechanic. There was nothing he could do. So we sold it.

You might want to seriously consider replacing all pistons and valves. But valve guides may be cracked. Piston connecting rods may be bent ever so slightly—enough to cause vibration.