Too the C7 to a trusted competent performance shop for the track alignment.

The front was no problem, but they were unable to achieve the GM recommended specs in the rear.

As the rear camber was moved inward, more neg, beyond 1 degree, the toe in increased significantly. He worked with it for a while, but it seems there's no way to get >-1.0 rear camber without problematic toe.

He noted the C6 had an adjustable rear toe link that the C7 lacks.

 

They told me that you have to take out some washers on the control arms to get to the negative camber setting. The best they could do on mine was 1.1 degree of negative camber.

 

I read the alignment how to and looked at the car on the lift… don't see what they may be referring to. Where are the washers located? Are the washers supposed to change the effective length of the toe link?

How much toe did you have with 1.1 degree negative rear camber?

 

The washers are between the 4 upper Arm mounting points and the frame. Remove 1 washer from each of the 4 mtg. points.

 

The C7 has an adjustable toe link. Lay down and look under the rear of the car and you will see it. It uses an eccentric washer like the camber adjustment uses.

 

Right, but he indicated the C6 had a threaded link i.e. much more range of adjustment.

Wish I'd known about the washers sooner! Thanks

 

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...php?photo=5767

Study the picture of a 2014 Corvette rear suspension in the link above...as you move the lower control arm outward to achieve more negative camber, the toe control link (mounted behind the rear axle and attached to the spindle) will cause the toe to go towards toe-out, not toe-in. Maybe you got the mechanics statement backwards or he stated it backwards...who knows.

Looking at the eccentric for the toe control rod, it appears there is more than enough range of adjustment to accomodate whatever camber/toe setting you want within reason. With the toe control rod mounted to the spindle closer to the lower control arm than the upper control arm, adjusting the lower control arm will have a bigger affect on the toe setting making it go more towards toe-out as you add negative camber. Adjusting the upper control arm will have a lesser affect on the toe setting making it go more towards toe-in as you add negative camber.

Hope you get the camber/toe settings you're looking for.

 

I just took my C7 today to a shop very familiar with Corvettes, C4/C5/C6 for alignment. He sets up lots of my friend's track cars and race cars. He has a new $55,000 alignment machine, and a pristine shop. This was his first C7 alignment.

Result is the same as the OP. Impossible to get the rear camber setting of -1.7 degrees because the eccentric adjuster on the rear toe link does not have enough range of adjustment. He said as above that the previous Vettes have much more rear toe adjustment range due to the threaded rod type adjuster rather than the eccentric adjuster. Front was no problem.

Front track alignment with target set per GM sheet got

-2.0 camber, 7.2 caster, 0.05 degrees toe in.

Rear track alignment result is now

-1.0 camber, 0.05 degrees toe in.

He said he could get the rear camber to -1.7 max with the adjusters, but just not possible to get the toe correct at that camber, and max after several tries was -1.0 rear camber. Did not see any rear washers to be removed.

So has anyone got actual measurement of their C7 with a track alignment that matches GM specs?

Here are screen shots for my alignment.

 

The washers are between the upper A arm mounting and the frame. There will be 3 or 4 washers for each bolt. Remove 1 or 2 of the washers from each bolt and the camber will increase accordingly.

This way you are moving the top in as opposed to moving the bottom out.

Should fix the toe issue.

 

Baer makes an adjustable rear toe link for the C7 that eliminates the eccentric that may help if needed.

 

That would be a very interesting option if it avoids removing and re-installing washers under the A-arm mounts to go back and forth between street and track alignment. Are they solid enough to take the loads from track tires, and has anyone actually used them? They are not listed on Baer's website. Any vendors sell them?

And with the washers removed, what alignment values have people gotten?

 

You should be able to just leave the washers out for either setting. Just remove enough to get you track setting at max. and then dial in the street setting. There should be plenty of adj. for this.

I would just take it back to your alignment guy and should be able to determine this in just a few minutes.

 

But have you actually done this and what are the alignment values you got, as I would like a real life confirmation before sending some more money? With the OEM setup, there was only enough range to go from the street rear camber of -0.5 to -1.0 degrees. That is an extremely small range of adjustment of half a degree, so why would taking out a washer change the range from -0.5 to -1.7 degrees, which is a 1.2 degree range?

 

No, I agree removing the washers will not effect the range. I did not realize you were seeing such a small range. I don't understand that small range because that hardware is the same as a C6.

My rear camber is set to -1.6 degrees on both sides with no washers removed and more adjustment is available on both of the eccentrics.

I have 16,000 miles on my rears with 12 track days and they show now excessive wear from the -1.6 degree camber. I have 1/2 tread or more across the entire tire. It was set there when the car was new and never set back to street.

 

I have not used the Baer adjustable toe links on a C7. We have used a similar product on a customers MR2 for more adjustment because the MR2 also had the eccentrics for the toe adjustment. Do a google search for C7 Corvette adjustable toe links and they will come up. They look beefed up and adequate from the photos.

 

does this work on the front too? im at -1.9 left front and -2.1 right front( i want to get to -2.5 both sides)

 

Yes, that works on the front as well.

If you were around in the 1960's the only camber adjustment was to add or remove shims on the upper control arms.

The lowers were fixed with no adjustment.

 

The Pfadt camber kit actually fixed the lower arms in position and
then you replaced the upper washers with shims for adjustability.
worked quite well on the C6

 

i did look for the shims that fell out (lol) in the past, i was not sure if taking out washers was ok, now i know. i just need a little more and did not want to grind anything, also with your thinking adding ones to the bottom would give someone even more.

 

none yet, i will go with a kit to lock it in for good when one comes out. thank you