I'd say either have the manufacturer get them coated before shipping to you, or find a local coating shop near you. I like how the black 2000F ceramic coating holds up on exhaust manifolds. I've used the silver 1600F ceramic before as well, and actually prefer it's thermal barrier capabilities, but it does not seem as durable after extended high-temp situations. In the Twin Cities, MN area I like MAPerformance for coating, in the DFW, TX area I use SPCoating (http://www.spcoating.com/) in Arlinton. I've worked with and had great luck with both throughout the years.

 

I had mine coated with 2000 degree black on the inside and 1600 degree Ceramacote on the outside, it is good stuff. I track my car and I can say that my water and oil temps stayed very much on the low side on the track.

I used a company in Sheboygan, WI to do mine. It was like $400 out the door shipped.

http://classiccoatings.com/prices.html#headers

 

^Great idea to do black inside and silver outside, I like that! If my manifolds ever come off for some reason I think I'll do the same.

 

It is not uncommon to have IAT temps spike way above ambient temperature---This is nothing new---On the C5 it was really bad--the C6 was improved and the C7 is better than ever before--
On a C5 it was common on a 70* day to have IAT temps hit 140-150* while driving in town
On a C6 about 135-140
The C7 about 125-135
You have to realize these are FALSE IAT readings due to underhood engine heat soak of your IAT" temp sensor" and not necessarily your intake---Yes you can try to insulate or wrap the intake---but once the sensor gets hot--all you are doing is keeping the intake tract heat insulated and not cooling off the sensor---There is no real way around this---A direct cold air intake may provide colder air-- BUT -It's the sensor that gets heat soaked and not the intake--- and the cause of timing deducts-
Hi IAT sensor readings can remove up to 10* of timing--that's almost 1/2 !!! and once the sensor gets hot it takes about 15-20 minutes of freeway driving to cool it off --even if the intake tract is at 70*
Most all tuners know this and fix the problem of false IAT readings by modifying the timing IAT deduct table---
A C7 removes 6* of timing with an IAT sensor reading of 140*
So tuners will alter this table so "0' deducts will occur up to about 140* but only at WOT and NOT P/T so you won't get any pinging
Every car can be a little different depending on mods so every car must be tuned individually---It is a trial and error process to see how each car reports IAT readings--AND to figure out which readings are false or indeed true---

 

hot damn, tblu!!!

 

Install a Meth kit, it will bring the temps down when needed.

 

I suppose this is possible. Theory at this point unless there is test data to support this theory.

The MAF sensors on the C7 is not the same as C5. I don't remember when GM switched over to the current card style MAF sensor, but you would have thought they would have addressed the heat soak issue (assuming it had one).

 

Thanks !!! we finally agreed on something----LOL

 

You would think GM would have addressed heat soak--But there must be a reason they have not--My guess to prevent pinging they error on the side of timing deducts regardless of heat soak or actual air intake temps--It is very difficult to isolate the two
I have seen IAT's in the 170's before where 12* or more are removed even on a cool day---But knowing that ambient air temps change immediately when the car gets moving tells me these readings are all false---doesn't matter if the intake tract is insulated or not--the high quantity of air keeps the actual air temp close to ambient most all the time when the car gets moving-----If the air temp was actually 130* you would want to remove some timing of course--but that is virtually impossible on earth !!---
You see many timing trickers for sale on the internet--these are simply resistors installed inline on the IAT wiring to always read 70* all the time---hence never any timing deductions---But these work both at P/T and at WOT--not a good idea in areas with many 100* days as you'll get P/T pinging----The best solution is to rework the IAT deduct table in your tune ONLY at WOT
Many many hours of data logging on the STREET (over 1800 hours) confirms my thoughts-----IAT temps are always the 1st thing I look at to try to figure out if or why the "commanded timing" does or does not match the "actual timing"

 

Or he could have been referring to the fact that he already reported this information in post #10 of this thread.

 

Well, both....

When a dude is right, you have to give some credit. But when a dude is wrong you have to make him feel stupid. That's what my parents always taught me. Also, if you ain't first, you're last.

 

The Halltech guys have a fiberglass hose that slides over the coolant hose (just for this purpose). Just a thought.

 

Yes, that comes with their kit. You can use that but its on the small and thin side. Could use a better insulation than that.

 

I think your effort to lower iat's is agreat idea and worth while effort. Have you tryed JJ Formato's idea of removing the weather strip at the base of the windshield to reduce the under hood temps?

 

Just thought I would share a tuning experience I just had today concerning IAT temps
Car is a 2013 Camaro SS V6 Direct injection E39 computer----This is the 1st DI Camaro I've tuned and let me tell you that it is awesome for a V6---The 1st thing I noticed ?? there is NO IAT deduct timing table in the tune !!! and after data logging 6 runs-the IAT temps would spike to 125* when parking--But immediately after starting it up it actually showed ambient temps ( was 60* today-) So GM has experimented with placing the IAT sensor in a new location where there is NO heat soak under the hood-- and it changes instantly to ambient----This is the 1st car I've ever tuned that had this set up---It may be a wave of the future for V8's to come--- It was so easy to tune as there were no timing deducts---and absolutely no pinging at all---anywhere

 

Great information, it seems so odd that GM Engineers didn't think of this sooner. 10 degrees of timing is crazy. I would imagine on the track with air flowing better your probably not seeing the heat soaked IAT as much.

 

This thread got me thinking during my build, I am installing this on my radiator hose when it goes back together. Shielding the hose from the CAI.

Cheap fix and it should provide cooler air.

http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/he...hd-hose-sleeve

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ES0/010408.oap

I think I'm going to get a roll of that and try a few small strips on the underside of my AFE intake tube near the radiator hose, and maybe on the underside of the intake manifold when I have it off next.

 

Good find. Could probably wrap the radiator hose and do the underside of our AFE's...

 

I'm thinking a better solution would be to re-route the hose a few inches toward the driver's side. That would require either patching two hoses together or finding a longer one that fits. There is a lot empty room there.

Then if that hose is insulated, it would be a huge improvement.