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LT1 oil catch can question

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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 10:27 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by pbergmann
Just going by the dealer and his statements to me about my car.
The same one who will or will not honor my warranty claims.

Go ahead, You guys can and will do what ever you want.... Doesn't matter to me in any shape or form.
Then later on, we can sit back and smugly read your posts when GM uses mods as a reason to deny your claims.

Lets end this dribble.
I guess most of us don't give 2 ***** about a warranty and do what we want for fun and more power. If the warranty is your priority, just drive the car until it stops.
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 10:35 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYM0USE
they have also denied claims for abuse 'racing' is apparently abuse and grounds for voiding work on americas #1 sports car.. anyways

I love my window tint and it also did not come from the factory.. lot of purists on here which is cool but maybe should stay out of the mods section IMO.

so anyways what is the harm in NOT derailing this thread? what oh what would happen if we stuck to the topic?

take off your cold air tube and look into it, if it is wet then you have a clean side consumption issue. if it is dry then check behind the throttle body to find your dirty side consumption.

dont assume what you or someone else needs or doesn't need. just LOOK. if you are happy with what you find do nothing and be happy. if you are not happy then you are in the market for a can!

almost anything will help, start to split hairs with the higher end models when it comes to oil catching efficiency, but there are also some other functions you should not overlook depending on your application.
Very well put
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 10:54 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYM0USE
they have also denied claims for abuse 'racing' is apparently abuse and grounds for voiding work on americas #1 sports car.. anyways

I love my window tint and it also did not come from the factory.. lot of purists on here which is cool but maybe should stay out of the mods section IMO.

so anyways what is the harm in NOT derailing this thread? what oh what would happen if we stuck to the topic?

take off your cold air tube and look into it, if it is wet then you have a clean side consumption issue. if it is dry then check behind the throttle body to find your dirty side consumption.

dont assume what you or someone else needs or doesn't need. just LOOK. if you are happy with what you find do nothing and be happy. if you are not happy then you are in the market for a can!

almost anything will help, start to split hairs with the higher end models when it comes to oil catching efficiency, but there are also some other functions you should not overlook depending on your application.
you really thought comparing window tint to a catch can was a good comparison ?

not saying i disagree with you, but dam thats a bad comparison.
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 11:05 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by MikeLsx
you really thought comparing window tint to a catch can was a good comparison ?

not saying i disagree with you, but dam thats a bad comparison.
At least it did not start more controversy and debate. To that end, it is a good non-confrontational comparison. We need more of that many times.
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 11:16 PM
  #25  
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I took my intake off at 4,800 miles just to see what the back of my intake valves looked like. I dont need someones opinion, I made my own based on what was right in front of me.
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 12:08 PM
  #26  
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I have a 2016 dry sump LT1.
at 10,000+ miles I have no oil in the air intake system.
I run a catch can on the PCV line only since I had 1000 miles.
I have a good running no notable oil use motor.
I do drain the can about every 2k miles and get a tablespoon +.
I pulled the intake a week ago for the installation of a ported stock intake.
I uploaded a dirty and cleaned port/valve.
I had wet oil stained ports with no notable puddles in the manifold.
They did clean up very easy. Some degreaser on a small cut piece of cloth. I just rubbed the dripping wet cloth on the port and valve and vacuumed up the liquid. The cloth would be black.
My thoughts were that the c can has minimized the coking on the valve and make the cleanup very easy. No walnuts or wire brushes.
Throttle body was clean.



Last edited by Mr. Jones; Jan 23, 2017 at 12:12 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 04:05 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Liter of cola
Whats the best oil catch can set up for the dry sump lt1?
We have the best Breather on the market. $699 for black and $649 for bare aluminum. You will not find a better quality or functioning Breather/Catch can. Our kit also vents outside of the engine bay. Allow that crank case to actually breathe.
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 05:30 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Late Model Racecraft
We have the best Breather on the market. $699 for black and $649 for bare aluminum. You will not find a better quality or functioning Breather/Catch can. Our kit also vents outside of the engine bay. Allow that crank case to actually breathe.
Hmm, sounds like the "road draft tube" I had on my '56 Chevy V8 (and my '50 and '41 Fords) before the EPA said no longer can you dump crackcase "stuff" in the air!?

I am no doubt missing something but are these for racing engines only or are you really NOT dumping crackcase blowby, burned oil mist etc in the air?

Yep a "Road Draft Tube" would solve all coking issues as crackcase "stuff" would just go into the air and would not pass over the intake valves!

Last edited by JerryU; Jan 23, 2017 at 05:35 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 08:02 PM
  #29  
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I seriously doubt most of the members of this forum "don't give 2 ***** about a warranty". A valid warranty has the potential to save the owner a significant engine replacement charge. This is not trivial.

A catch can may or may not be desireable for a longer time between valve cleaning. Time will tell. People should go into adding one with their eyes open. Each person can weigh the pros and cons of a can vs the risk of warranty denial in the rare case of engine failure.

In order to make the decision, they need to be aware there have been denials.



Originally Posted by LSX Camaro
I guess most of us don't give 2 ***** about a warranty and do what we want for fun and more power. If the warranty is your priority, just drive the car until it stops.
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 08:10 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JerryU
Hmm, sounds like the "road draft tube" I had on my '56 Chevy V8 (and my '50 and '41 Fords) before the EPA said no longer can you dump crackcase "stuff" in the air!?

I am no doubt missing something but are these for racing engines only or are you really NOT dumping crackcase blowby, burned oil mist etc in the air?
I am pretty sure whatever PCV gasses the LMR can doesn't catch, will get vented through a hose to an air filter and then to atmosphere. It does this rather than routing it back to the manifold. I suspect any change (all catch cans) to the stock PCV system doesn't comply with EPA. Whether or not it actually changes emissions is a different question. I have always wanted to know if its really better to create extra emissions by burning extra fuel to reburn PCV contamination?

Last edited by djnice; Jan 23, 2017 at 11:53 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 11:12 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by djnice
I am pretty sure whatever PCV it doesn't catch gets vented through a hose to a filter and then to atmosphere. It does this rather than routing it back to the manifold. I suspect any change (all catch cans) to the stock PCV system doesn't comply with EPA. Whether or not it actually changes emissions is a different question. Maybe its better to not spend extra fuel to reburn PCV contamination?
No "can" is catching all the PCV "stuff" from the crackcase. You can't filter it! Yep my Elite catches some of the stuff but as the recent poster showed who has a catch can oil residue does get through. Any filter would clog.

There is no reason for EPA to get involved with my catch can it does not let any more pollution in the air or effect the emissions systems. They would be involved with manufacturers who have to show their cars can go between oil changes without the need for the owner to dump collected PCV stuff!
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 11:49 PM
  #32  
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Its my understanding any alteration to the emissions system is illegal. However, no one will ever check for the catch can and it will pass emissions testing so it doesn't matter. The point is, I think you can vent the PCV and still pass emissions. Either system is not approved by EPA. So if someone wants to vent the stuff rather than reburn it, maybe its not a big deal.
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 08:49 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by djnice
Its my understanding any alteration to the emissions system is illegal. However, no one will ever check for the catch can and it will pass emissions testing so it doesn't matter. The point is, I think you can vent the PCV and still pass emissions. Either system is not approved by EPA. So if someone wants to vent the stuff rather than reburn it, maybe its not a big deal.
Would not call myself a tree hugger, but dumping the crackcase "stuff" in the air, like my '56 Chevy V8 is not something I would do! My catch can only "catches" some of the stuff, not all, that goes to the intake and gets burned. I dump what is caught with my old oil in a recycle center. Has no effect on air emissions.

Even on my Street Rod with it's 502 cid crate motor, crankcase fumes go from a baffled hole in one valve cover through a PCV valve into the base of the Holley 850 double pumper. There the gasoline from the carb cleans the PCV "stuff" from the back of the intake valves.

Might as well do what the Road Draft Tube did and just run a hose down near the bottom of the pan from the PCV exit in the block. Cut the end at an angle and when driving, like my '56 and prior year cars, it will pull crackcase blowby products out! As the kid in the commercial says, "Not Cool!"

Last edited by JerryU; Jan 24, 2017 at 09:22 AM.
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 11:34 AM
  #34  
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So getting back to the OP
Depending on your needs NA motor or superchargered you have options.
The LMC and I believe ECS have a similar setup appear to be for the crazy NA and supercharger motors. I would not run without their system.
For a 2016 dry or wet sump car from what I have seen a good simple catch can is all that is required on the PCV. A early car should use the more elaborate cans like MM and Elite.
The PCV catch can did not collect all of the oil mist but it does get most of it. The manifold I installed (used) with similar miles on it was dripping oil (assuming the previous owner did not have a CC). I had to clean it before I installed it.
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by JerryU
Would not call myself a tree hugger, but dumping the crackcase "stuff" in the air, like my '56 Chevy V8 is not something I would do! My catch can only "catches" some of the stuff, not all, that goes to the intake and gets burned. I dump what is caught with my old oil in a recycle center. Has no effect on air emissions.

Even on my Street Rod with it's 502 cid crate motor, crankcase fumes go from a baffled hole in one valve cover through a PCV valve into the base of the Holley 850 double pumper. There the gasoline from the carb cleans the PCV "stuff" from the back of the intake valves.

Might as well do what the Road Draft Tube did and just run a hose down near the bottom of the pan from the PCV exit in the block. Cut the end at an angle and when driving, like my '56 and prior year cars, it will pull crackcase blowby products out! As the kid in the commercial says, "Not Cool!"
Its not a road draft. It catches the oil and "stuff", and filters the air when there is excess pressure. You still have to drain the crap out like your catch can. If LMR posted the hose routing maybe it would make more sense.

Last edited by djnice; Jan 24, 2017 at 12:03 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2017 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by pbergmann
NONE.. not needed
I disagree. See before cleaning and after pictures. 100 percent stock, Z06, 3500 street miles, no HPDE.
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Last edited by Cosmo Kramer; Jan 27, 2017 at 12:56 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2017 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by djnice
I like mighty mouse with relief valve.
Dave has out engineered GM and all the completion. Kudos, Dave.

Last edited by Cosmo Kramer; Jan 27, 2017 at 01:08 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2017 | 02:36 PM
  #38  
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Just because a car without a catch can shows deposits is not proof a catch can will eliminate or even have a significant impact. The real test would be two cars driven under the same conditions and then compare the extent of the deposits.
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Old Jan 27, 2017 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer
Dave has out engineered GM and all the completion. Kudos, Dave.
Regardless of how much his can catches and he dumps out, if he essentially dumps what does pass thru in the air he has not "engineered" better than GM he has just moved us back to the late 1950's and before with a "road draft tube!" Still not clear to me if that system blocks the PCV hose entry to the intake manifold. Most catch cans do NOT.
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Old Jan 27, 2017 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JerryU
Regardless of how much his can catches and he dumps out, if he essentially dumps what does pass thru in the air he has not "engineered" better than GM he has just moved us back to the late 1950's and before with a "road draft tube!" Still not clear to me if that system blocks the PCV hose entry to the intake manifold. Most catch cans do NOT.
I think you are talking about LMR and Cosmo is talking about Might Mouse. The two are totally different. But I don't know because you keep getting stuck on your draft tube.
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