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Well crap. Backed out of my drive this morning. Put it in drive, didn't want to go; felt like it was slipping badly. Looked at my dash and the CEL was on. Shut the car off and checked for fault codes and had the following...
(Active) P0700 - Powertrain
(Pending) B2AAA - Body
(Pending) U0073 - Network
(Pending) U0101 - Network
(Pending) U012A - Network
(History) U0100 - Network
Cleared the codes. Resarted; no CEL. Driving fine now. ???
I've got no training or experience with modern car electrical systems, but considering my accident, this seems like a harness connector is loose or maybe a wire is pinched.
Anyone have any insight? (I will be contacting my dealer in the morning)
Sounds like a connector or wire. Hope they can narrow it down with those codes. Connectors can look fine, but still be causing the problem if they are not set perfectly. The issue is the network com lines only allow for very minor voltage drop.
Yeah. The trade-in value was about a 45% haircut off MSRP. As I mentioned, all things considered, it was about the best choice, based on convenience and not wanting a wrecked car, even if it was strictly cosmetic.
I could still run drag week, but I'd have to do DRs. Not sure I want to hassle with all that if I'm otherwise stock. I might do the Power Tour this year, but the June dates may be problematic since I'll be essentially starting a new job*.
I don't think I'll be updating this much anymore, since I'm dead in the water for mods, although I do want a suede steering wheel and spice red interior.
I appreciate everyone's interaction with my shenanigans.
*(I was part of about 1,100 laid off when Capital One decided to close their Home Loans line of business. And actually, I'm not planning any mods until I have clarity on how I'm going to land. But I don't have a lot of concerns in that space.)
1) The bumper camera picture quality is notably worse than my 2016.
2) The HUD is novel and interesting but I can see I could live without it. It does look like it's tilted funny, but I get that it is level. Also, because of the way I sit, the right side tends to get cut off.
3) The memory seats on the other hand is a must have.
Well crap. Backed out of my drive this morning. Put it in drive, didn't want to go; felt like it was slipping badly. Looked at my dash and the CEL was on. Shut the car off and checked for fault codes and had the following...
(Active) P0700 - Powertrain
(Pending) B2AAA - Body
(Pending) U0073 - Network
(Pending) U0101 - Network
(Pending) U012A - Network
(History) U0100 - Network
Cleared the codes. Resarted; no CEL. Driving fine now. ???
I've got no training or experience with modern car electrical systems, but considering my accident, this seems like a harness connector is loose or maybe a wire is pinched.
Anyone have any insight? (I will be contacting my dealer in the morning)
Well, what do know. Figured this out.
Had this happen this morning on my new 2017. Common component? The OBDLink® MX Bluetooth I leave plugged into my OBD-II port. I use this with Torque Pro.
One reason I felt comfortable trading in the 2016 was because I could not replicate this anymore and it had been a few weeks since the last occurrence. That was because I left the dongle in the glovebox all that time.
Had this happen this morning on my new 2017. Common component? The OBDLink® MX Bluetooth I leave plugged into my OBD-II port. I use this with Torque Pro.
One reason I felt comfortable trading in the 2016 was because I could not replicate this anymore and it had been a few weeks since the last occurrence. That was because I left the dongle in the glovebox all that time.
So if I'm reading this right, you de-modded your initial stingray, traded it in, lost a **** ton of money and it was all due to that damn OBD II dongle? That is a pisser, but I'm glad that you figured this out and shared it with us, because the same thing could happen to any of us and who would suspect that the dongle could impact things like that.
You're right on the dongle. The rest...well, I traded it in mostly because I just didn't want a wrecked car. That's why I took it in the shorts. Also, the car wasn't de-modded.
You're right on the dongle. The rest...well, I traded it in mostly because I just didn't want a wrecked car. That's why I took it in the shorts. Also, the car wasn't de-modded.
I'm with ya on that. I have no interest in owning one after it has been wrecked. I'm just really picky...
Brief update. Working on driver mods for now. Dropped 12lbs since the beginning of the year. Target is another 23lbs.
If we can get some decent weather on a TnT schedule, I'll go out and practice my launches.
Also on a side note with my diminished value claim for my wrecked 2016. I hired a law firm to prepare a DV evaluation for my car. This was submitted to the insurance company and after some back and forth, they paid a value of 40% of the demand. Turns out with the documentation provided by the law firm, I can claim the difference on my taxes as a property loss. Not sure if that will be available going forward with the recent tax law changes.
One other thing. I *really* don't like this Z51 spoiler. I don't like seeing it int the rear view mirror. And I think the car's lines look better.
Spoiler delete options?
Last edited by bigsapper; Feb 26, 2018 at 09:12 PM.
And so all things end. My C7 is for sale and I bought this C5 as a replacement. I'll be hanging out over there, but lurking here because this has a lot of good modern tech info. I'm genuinely curious if there will ever be a simple, inexpensive fueling solution for high horsepower builds.
@Higgs_Boson, if you do Gen III/IV tuning, I sent you an email.