I am mid rebuild now, everything is out of the block. Motor ran great before pulling it, just wanted more power. I had 52,000 miles on it when pulled. Block is in great shape, and the head gaskets came off pretty clean. I'm planning to hone it myself, the only thing I'm thinking about is the head gasket surface. I was planning to clean it up with a razor blade first and then do a quick pass with a soft abrasive pad on my wizzer wheel. That should be fine right?

Heads are being done by TSP and they are going to skim them so no worries there..

Ant

 

Don't everybody answer at the same time..

 

Just clean the head surface with a razor blade (red residue from head gasket) then just take a green pad and use it by hand to clean the surface. That's what I did with my TSP heads about 25k miles ago

 

I figured it would be fine to do that. I've got the blue abrasive pads for my die grinder that I was gonna do a quick pass on. Blue pads are the soft ones. On other cars I've done I have used the red (medium) pads to clean up the deck but those were on foreign cars.

 

Imo , I would just use the razor blade. Die grinder not recommended. That's all we use at dealership on everything. Also you might want to ask a machine shop , but GM also says no need to hone cyclinder walls if they are in good condition. Even when installing new pistons and rings. Which has been very often lately. Obviously your application may be different, then disregard all of this. Lol

 

^^^ This. You'd be surprised how much aluminum you can remove with even the softer blue pad on a die grinder or drill.

Get a can of 3M Adhesive Remover (or laquer thinner) and the razor blade and get it spotlessly clean. That's all you should need.

 

Interesting list of what Katech does.

• Disassemble, wash and inspect parts

• Crack check using Magnaflux (ferrous metals) or Zyglo (non-ferrous metals) if necessary

• Chase all threads in cylinder case and clean

• Measure main bores, line hone if necessary

• Measure lifter bore clearance

• Measure cylinder bore

• Hone cylinder bores using deck plates

• Measure bore finish with profilometer

• Weigh pistons, connecting rods, rod bearings, pins, locks and rings to determine crankshaft bobweight

• Balance crankshaft

• Polish crankshaft journals

• Tack weld crankshaft trigger wheel

• Hone piston pin bores and connecting rod small end

• Polish piston pins (excl. DLC-coated pins)

• Deburr piston round wire locks

• Measure ring lands for back clearance

• Deburr piston ring ends

• Gap piston rings

• Measure main journals with air gauge

• Measure big end of connecting rods with air gauge, hone if necessary

• Size main bearings with air gauge

• Measure connecting rod bolt stretch

• Size rod bearings with air gauge

• Measure crankshaft endplay

• Measure piston pin endplay

• Measure connecting rod side clearance

• Check piston to deck height

• Deck block if necessary

• CC piston dome volume

• CC cylinder head chamber volume

• Deck heads if necessary

• CC intake port volume

• CC exhaust port volume

• Measure valve guide clearance

• Measure valve spring pressure and coil bind

• Check valve spring retainer to seal clearance

• Polish camshaft

• Measure camshaft specs with EZ Cam

• Degree camshaft

• Measure piston-to-valve clearance

• Measure valve radial clearance

• Measure vertical valve drop

• Measure camshaft endplay

• Measure lifter preload to determine pushrod length

• Calculate compression ratio

• Torque all fasteners to spec

• Document all measurements and torques in engine build book

• Perform engine dynamometer validation

o Break-in using specific schedule

o Check oberg filter for material

o Verify health of engine using up to 75 channels of data

o Verify power and torque

o Document in dyno report

 

Well, I'm already done cleaning it up. Been done for 2 days now. Went at it with a couple razors and got off 95% of the leftovers from the gaskets, then did a quick pass with the blue pad. It should be fine. Now I have to file the new ring ends for the pistons. Joy..