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And below you can see some installed on car - I have the AMT Motorsport Stud Kit, as well as their Camber Plate Kit and Granatelli adjustable rear toe link:
I have the exact same set-up, BeZ06. Problem I'm having is getting his shim measurements with the 200 plus shims I do have! LOL! Been working my mic overtime to get the 2.85mm adjustment.
I have the exact same set-up, BeZ06. Problem I'm having is getting his shim measurements with the 200 plus shims I do have! LOL! Been working my mic overtime to get the 2.85mm adjustment.
Each car is different. You have to use whatever shims it takes to get to the alignment specs you want. Odds are if you use exactly what he did your car will be out of alignment.
Each car is different. You have to use whatever shims it takes to get to the alignment specs you want. Odds are if you use exactly what he did your car will be out of alignment.
Completely understood....but ya got to start somewhere! I might be making a mess of it, we shall see once I make my measurements.
Thanks for the rite up and all posted useful info I too do my own alignment and way better than I can get it done by alignment shop in fact they are the reason I do my own.
Just a small personal comment on the use of the string which I have employed for many jobs I discover the use of the tape measure to be fairly significant for toe adjustment.
Involves the use of two flat bars (my personal preference) on the outside of the wheels you find out how to keep em in place I use blue painters blue tape then run two measuring tapes across under the car so tapes are straight to get correct readings making sure first the steering wheel is straight adjust toe till front and rear are same distance if you want it at o or center or a mm out or in as desire.
I found that must alignment shops equipment are off so relying on them? well convinced me I needed better.
Are you using different shims than what was provided in the kits?
Yes. I was using some shims from an old Pfadt kit. I had an early AMT it and the shims provided doesn't fit. Mark shipped me a HF kit but u didn't want to wait for it to arrive.
My advice is to go with slightly thicker shims than my measurement and see where you end up.
Yes. I was using some shims from an old Pfadt kit. I had an early AMT it and the shims provided doesn't fit. Mark shipped me a HF kit but u didn't want to wait for it to arrive.
My advice is to go with slightly thicker shims than my measurement and see where you end up.
Thanks Poor-sha, I thought as much. I chose to do just that.
Thanks for the rite up and all posted useful info I too do my own alignment and way better than I can get it done by alignment shop in fact they are the reason I do my own.
Just a small personal comment on the use of the string which I have employed for many jobs I discover the use of the tape measure to be fairly significant for toe adjustment.
Involves the use of two flat bars (my personal preference) on the outside of the wheels you find out how to keep em in place I use blue painters blue tape then run two measuring tapes across under the car so tapes are straight to get correct readings making sure first the steering wheel is straight adjust toe till front and rear are same distance if you want it at o or center or a mm out or in as desire.
I found that must alignment shops equipment are off so relying on them? well convinced me I needed better.
That still leaves me with my eyes trying to resolve 1/64 of an inch on the tape or ruler (which ever is used) and it isn't easy. The toe out spec from DSC is .5 mm which is about 3/128. Very hard to eye ball the lines when you have bifocals, astigmatism and can't see anything if there isn't a 3000 watt light shining on it. I set my car up for DSC's alignment. My camber and caster readings are near spot on front and rear but the toe settings are somewhere between slight toe in and slight toe out. Shoot all you have to is look at them from an angle and it is hard to tell which 1/64 line the string or the toe plate is on.
Well, Tried Poor-Sha's settings over the weekend.... Definitely not working with my vehicle. Too aggressive. I was seeing -3.4 to -3.6 camber figures using a very crappy camber gauge (not sure how accurate). So, I changed my plates to 3 on LCA and put all the shims to approximate stock (2- 1/16 & 2- 1/32) per UCA stud. Finished that this morning.
I will have to get some way to measure camber. I bought a Quick Trick set-up, liked the gauge, but very disappointed in the over all quality of the framing. My overzealous brother managed to scratch the hell out of one of my rims, when he jumped in to help...
I couldn't get the frame to stay on the wheel...it is useless and expensive.
Taking alignment measurements.
I had camber plates at position 2, but initial measurements showed -3+ camber. So, I ran all the plates to position 3 and installed roughly equivalent shims to equal stock on UCA. Roughly, I am averaging -2.0/-2.3 camber in the front, but I'm getting readings of +10.5 caster!
At a bit of a loss in the direction to head to bring Caster to +7.5. Ideas?
Taking alignment measurements.
I had camber plates at position 2, but initial measurements showed -3+ camber. So, I ran all the plates to position 3 and installed roughly equivalent shims to equal stock on UCA. Roughly, I am averaging -2.0/-2.3 camber in the front, but I'm getting readings of +10.5 caster!
At a bit of a loss in the direction to head to bring Caster to +7.5. Ideas?
Remember the control arms don't need to be in the same position front and rear. So if on the front of the car you have both sets of plates on position 3, leave the rear most set in position 3 and switch the front to position 2. Creating more negative camber in the front only will kick the spindle upright backwards, reducing the amount of caster. This point is made in the instructions should you need to reference them.
Remember the control arms don't need to be in the same position front and rear. So if on the front of the car you have both sets of plates on position 3, leave the rear most set in position 3 and switch the front to position 2. Creating more negative camber in the front only will kick the spindle upright backwards, reducing the amount of caster. This point is made in the instructions should you need to reference them.
Guess I over looked that "tip". Again, thanks Mark!
Bill, why didn't the smart strings work? I used them with no issues.
I couldn't get the rear bars to fit on the back of the car. They worked on my C6Z but the height of the rear spoiler and the lack of anything for the hooks to grab onto in the hatch opening kept me from being able to get the cross bar low enough. I may have been able to get them to work if I removed the spoiler but that was more hassle than I want to go through to do the alignment. Doing it in my garage is difficult enough without having to disassemble the body to get the tools to fit.
