Hey guys, I did my second set of headers this week using jack stands and its not hard at all. First set was a Z06 and 2nd set was my Stingray non Z51.


Aside from the install manual here are some tips that worked great for me:


Remove both plastic "Corvette" valve covers using Torx T30
Disconnect ground at the battery.
Remove fuse box - use electric or small air impact for the large nut securing the battery cables on the box as not to break the plastic tab. The fuse blocks will slide out the sides while depressing small curved locking tab.
Remove fuse tray and coolant reservoir - takes a 1-2 mins for this.
You now can remove and install header bolts and spark plugs with tons of room.

Use large flathead screwdriver to "pry" out metal spark plug boot covers (at the base of the metal cover closest to head) while lightly pulling on spark plug wire - comes out with ease this way - takes 2 seconds for each plug wire and zero damage.

Unbolt both manifold heat shields.

Wet sumps - remove oil dipstick tube - 1 bolt and pull - up

Dry Sumps - remove the oil lines - oil will come out so be prepared - not a lot but enough. this makes removal and install easier and I don't see how you can remove the pass side manifold without removing these lines.

Remove oem cats from manifolds
the hard to reach nut is easy, use the "2 wrench" leverage trick. For the driver's side, turn the wheels all the way to the right and you have room for both wrenches. For the pass side nut turn the wheels all the way to the left and you will have room for both wrenches.


I then removed the bolt for the steering shaft and moved the shaft out of the way with the wheels straight- very easy and makes the drivers manifold fall out a lot easier.

Disconnecting the o2 sensors is very easy. On the plastic connector pull the white tab up and flip connector around to the back and insert a flathead between the connectors and twist to pry apart - super easy.

One of my o2 sensors welded itself to the manifold so it stripped when I removed it using the o2 socket. $60 for a new OEM is what paid. I have 17k miles too. - happened to me before on another vehicle with 8k miles - it happens.

Header bolts - get a wire wheel and clean the threads real good. I put each bolt in a vise and used a 3" wire wheel attached to my drill. I then used a die to chase the threads to make them like new. After this I was able to thread the bolts in by hand all the way down to the headers. - Use blue Loctite and torque to 17 ft/lbs start with middle bolt and work outwards.

Long tubes install from the bottom, Do yourself a favor and spend $10 on 2 new oem gaskets p/n 12657093


Hope this helps someone!

 

Thanks for the tips. I plan on doing this to my Stingray later this Spring. How long of an install was it start to finish?

 

The removal took 3 hours and the install took a little over 3 hours. I was taking my time with every step. I had the car up on 4 jack stands too.

 

Nice job, Sal. Thanks. What's the "2 wrench" leverage trick?

 

Thanks!


My dad showed me the 2 wrench trick about 20 years ago and you may have seen it before. Here is a pic I found online to illustrate

https://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...jpg.828474526/

 

Ah, yes. Thanks, Sal.

 

Nice tips! Thanks for sharing.

 

Just finished up my install and it's pretty dumb that I did this but do yourself a favor and connect the o2 extension cables onto the car BEFORE you install the new headers because they were NOT fun to get in after. Also I unbolted my manifolds except for the middle manifold stud so you can unbolt the cat from the manifold and not have to remove the studs form the manifold, they slipped right out. Just my 2 cents. Great post tho I followed your tips and it was a pretty breezy install

 

Seriously considering installing mine myself. Thanks for the write up.

 

I just did mid lengths less than 2 weeks ago. Not hard in the slightest. A pain in the a$$ a couple of times, but not hard. Go for it

 

Also jacking the engine up makes them easier to get out. Much easier. Simple to do as well. You can even lower the cradle yet jack the motor lots of ways to get more wiggle room doing that. I got my headers out in 30 mins the other day, starter, lowered cradle. removed fuse box and reservoir, coil wires, and I also use ARP studs on my headers which I will ALWAYS do moving forward. They let you hang the headers and gasket number one so no fooling with trying to start a bolt (not cross thread) and hold that sharp stainless gasket. They also have smooth ends to let you get the 12point nut on first, then let you easily spin on without cross threading. This makes it easy to slip the nut on, spin with fingers to thread, then tighten with a wratchet wrench. It can't get any easier I've dropped my headers with the latest build tasks I've done several times in the last month. Nothing to it.

 

Nice refresher. Doing mine next week

 

I'll add my two cents. Reroute and firesleeve the harness that goes to the (going from memory) the green connector to the underhood fuse box. Put it behind the heater hoses. Also firesleeve the heater hoses. Make sure all wiring is either secured or firesleeved anywhere near the headers.

 

These tips tho.

 

my experience so far. Those last bolt on each side of the cat are kicking my butt. Couldn’t get them to break lose with the 2 wrench trick and ended up rounding them off. Taking a break for tonight and will reassess tomorrow.

on those 2 bolts I have tried penetrating oil, 2 wrench method, channel lock, pass through socket etc. at this point I may end up cutting them off with a Dremel tomorrow🤷‍♂️

 

yessssssssss cut them off (devil on your shoulder) it'll be fine. Who plans on reusing them anytime soon anyway

 

Can't get to the bolt good to cut it off

May cut the cats off right at the cat. Wonder if it will have room to come out like that 🤷

 

Got everything in except the last middle header bolt on driver side.

We had the front 4 started and couldn't get the rear one in so we removed the bolts and started with the rear one. After all that the 2 front and 2 rear ones would go in but it seems the hole for the middle one is just a bit off.

🤦‍♂️🤷

 

what headers are they? Mine went on easy. I would back out the other 4 bolts almost all the way and pull the header away from the block and try to start the last bolt that way.

 

I went to Advanced Auto and bought a 2 pack of header studs. I used them as cheaters to help line up everything. Obviously just hand tighten the studs. Then put the others in. Remove those and replace with the actual bolts. Works great to keep the gasket lined up also. I also bought ARP header bolts because my OEMs were pretty swollen.