I know its common for people to buy jack pucks those are great and all, but most every jack stand I can find is V shaped which is not really ideal for jacking up the corvette. I make it work, but it stresses me out every time i work on the turd. What jack stands are you all using?

 

 

 

Have you tried the hard poly rectangular 'pads' that fit to the top of most common jack stands?

 

 

FWIW, I deleted that post because I was having too much trouble using hyperlinks with the new website procedure in place. I bought the QuickJack Last Jan. after I had changed the M7 fluid using the old method of jacking each corner (blue locations) one at a time and securing them all with jack stands (red locations). The car had to be up fairly high for me to work under it and level, which took me about an hour and lots of colorful language to accomplish. The QJ takes maybe 5 min. to set up (put frames in place and attach the quick-release hydraulic fittings to the pump) and 30 sec. to lift the car. Voila! Now I can get it up level to ~18" in a jiffy, and I leave the QJ frames under the C7 since they collapse to 3" and clear everything, all for a measly $1200 (with promo code).

 

I don't mean to hijack this thread...But I will.

How do you guys put 4 jack stands under the car? I did my 500 mi service myself, and couldn't get the front end up even with my king of all floor jacks:



AC Hydralics DK13HLQ

This is an ultra low profile, super long shop jack. I couldn't reach the center jack point in front because the poverty splitter is in the way, I can almost reach the first bar on the subframe but ideally would like to use the 2nd bar because it's beefier.

The rear's no problem, this jack reaches the center jacking point with the handle sitting straight. The front I ended up jacking form the puck on the side and putting it on ramps instead of jack stands.

I suspect I can jack up the rear first, put the rear on jack stands, then reach the center jacking point from the side using this jack, but it creeps me out jacking the entire front end up from the side. I suppose, I can make a small cradle out of wood, or simply set it down on a set of 4x2s. If the front end is 2" higher I can easily slide this jack under to reach the center jacking point.

 

i usually jack it up like that, but without the wood. i suppose i cant try it that way, just feels unstable to have both jack stands so close together or get another floor jack for security.

QuickJacks are definitely in my future just not right now since I blew a lot of cash on a track day and some flights to germany

 

Get yourself a pair of three- four inch tall ramps for the front. Drive the car up on the ramps. Then you will be able to slide your jack underneath. I hate jacking up my C7 grand sport. A pain in the butt. I am seriously considering getting the Quick Jack.

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber...-pc-63373.html

 

I second TJC333's mention of using ramps. There's a discussion here that started out with commercially available ramps, then evolved to DIY alternatives including quick-assembly multi-tier ramps (see reply #29). I have a pair that are basically two tiers (2x12" boards for each tier) and a third tier that can be added quickly by inserting hinge pins.

This makes it easy to get the car up enough for many chores, or to make it much easier to maneuver a floor jack. Since buying the QuickJack six months ago I haven't used the ramps or floor jack at all, but they worked okay as a combo to get the car up high enough for many jobs. It just took time and was aggravating. Those who aren't diametrically challenged (i.e., small guys like me) could use a 3-tier ramp to do some things, like change the oil and filter. That way you don't even need a floor jack or jack stands.

 

I use plastic pads on my jack stands. Have had for so long don't recall where I bought them- just google. See someone posted my old "where to jack" from the 2014 Service Manual that I colored for clarity. Below is the latest form the 2016 Service Manual.

 

The wooden wheel/tire "tray" is perfect! I think my buddy and I will get some spare 2"x6"s and build a similar tray for the front so I can use the center jack point. I don't need it to be that high, just high enough to clear maybe 2-3" further off the ground for my AC Hydraulic jack to reach.

 

^^^
Yep one 2X6 12 feet long and some scape pieces of 3/4 plywood is all I used ($10.) Funny, someone questioned the safety and said they would use stacked 2x12's. That would weight close to 50 lbs versus these that are about 10 pounds each. For fun calculated the safety factor. The minimum, even if not well constructed, would be 15. How I made them and the calculations for various possible failure modes are at the end of this PDF: http://netwelding.com/Jacking_A_C7.pdf

 

I run the front up on RaceRamps (removing the lower ramp section if in the way of my task). And jack up the rear, placing stands as appropriate to the task.

 

 

I use race ramps to get up high enough for QuickJacks.
I'm lowered on stock bolts and have about 3 1/2" clearance on front splitter.
Love the QuickJack.
Even loaded them in my truck and went to a friends house to help him with exhaust work.

 

I use my Torin T43004L aluminum stands. I like the round aluminum base to use on epoxy garage floor & the top of the stand is fairly flat. My steel jack stands have been in retirement since I got the Torin's. http://www.torinjacksusa.com/bigred/...ck-stands.html

 

You jack from the side of the car. You can get three wheels off the ground by just jacking the car high enough from one of the shipping slot locations where you install the pucks. Jack stands can be placed right where the lcas mount to the cradle.






No need for wood blocks, plastic protectors or cross beams. Been jacking Corvettes like this since 1972 with no problems. By the way that is one of the Harbor Freight 1.5 ton Race Jacks. Light and easy to move around. I can take the handle off, throw the jack in the back of the Tahoe with the rest of my tools and spares and use it at the track.
Bill