Need help figuring out a friend's 2016 engine problem





Does your buddy have HPTuners? There are some very specific things that can be done with their scan tool to command the ECU to do things, let alone read how the engine is running.
Seems awfully foolish to chase wiring blindly. Ain't my car though. Best of luck. Sounds like the kind of person that maybe shouldn't be doing any in depth work on cars.
Seems awfully foolish to chase wiring blindly. Ain't my car though. Best of luck. Sounds like the kind of person that maybe shouldn't be doing any in depth work on cars.
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Thanks for the help, and have a good one,
Mike
Thanks for the help, and have a good one,
Mike
making sure both are not skewed…MAF you want to look at “hot unloaded” idle…O2’s you look at in a graph form if your scan tool has the capability…yes, less data PIDS make the refresh rate faster…these are the PIDS I normally look at for any drivability issue.
1. Car is driving fine, no engine codes
2. KOEO, Cold: MAP: 29.2 in Hg, IAT; 86, Ambient: 81, ECT: 77
3. After test drive (20 minutes?), KOER: MAP: 9.2, MAF: 0.9, IAT: 100
For the 1st 5 minutes running, essentially at idle, the O2 voltage readings didn't change. It took 5 minutes for me to figure out that I was recording data correctly. I gathered 2 sets of data: the first is just the O2 sensors, that I've decomposed and found something that, while it's not throwing a code, nor even noticeable, might be indicative.
Look at the two charts, from time period 550 to 600 (seconds). Bank 1 Sensor 1 (B1S1) has similar activity to the time periods on either side, while B2S1 shows virtually no activity. But otherwise during this part of the graph the two are fairly well aligned.
Any ideas?
Thanks again for the help, and have a good one,
Mike
Last edited by C5 Diag; Jun 14, 2023 at 06:51 PM.
I looked at the calculated load value, and at a stop (in gear IIRC), it's stable at 20%. It never goes below 10%. I'll check fuel trims when I get the mess cleaned up and get back on the car.





This is the 4-5” hail that destroyed our roof in 2019 (San Antonio, TX). Scariest storm I’ve ever seen.
The other interesting thing were fault codes. I checked them right after startup, and I had thirty codes! This after the previous run had zero. I left them alone (check engine light was on) and did my test drive. Car drove fine, with the exception of a few sluggish shifts while the transmission was cold (I don't have much experience with the C7's A8 tranny, so I don't know if this is normal or not). After around a 20 minute run, I checked the codes again, and all but 5 had self-cleared. The five that remained were the O2 sensors and heaters, plus one for the fuel pump controller (which we've already replaced).
I then cleared the codes, with the fuel pump controller code remaining. I also scanned all the systems that I could, and documented and cleared several BCM codes and one human interface (?) code. The files are attached in pdf format.
Thanks again for your help, and have a good one,
Mike
The other interesting thing were fault codes. I checked them right after startup, and I had thirty codes! This after the previous run had zero. I left them alone (check engine light was on) and did my test drive. Car drove fine, with the exception of a few sluggish shifts while the transmission was cold (I don't have much experience with the C7's A8 tranny, so I don't know if this is normal or not). After around a 20 minute run, I checked the codes again, and all but 5 had self-cleared. The five that remained were the O2 sensors and heaters, plus one for the fuel pump controller (which we've already replaced).
I then cleared the codes, with the fuel pump controller code remaining. I also scanned all the systems that I could, and documented and cleared several BCM codes and one human interface (?) code. The files are attached in pdf format.
Thanks again for your help, and have a good one,
Mike
That is a lot of codes that sort of seem unrelated in the sense of it's not common that one would affect the other. I would start by investigating electrical connections, specifically the following areas.
#1) All battery connections including the positive terminal fuse block and black wire in the trunk.
#2) In the engine compartment, the positive terminals that attach the the fuse box. Verify any connection issue here or a loose nut for the positive wires.
#3) The fuse box under the hood itself. It it was ever removed and not re-installed properly, there could be loose connections underneath causing intermittent issues.
#4) Pop the passenger side front tire off and pull back the wheel liner side closest to the passenger door. Take a look at the ECU and its connections. Do any of them look loose or like they may have had water intrusion? They are pretty resilient but if water got in there, it could be a problem.












