I hate to post this, because it's kind of hard to understand.
INFO:
Mobil rebranded and reformulated its ESP formula 0W-40 into Mobil 1 supercar 0W-40 oil to specifically meet the stringent Dexos R certification required for C7/C8 Corvettes and high-performance GM engines. The change focuses on superior wear protection, high-temperature stability, and specialized additive packages for track use.
Formulation: The Supercar formula is a PAO ester blend with a distinct, updated additive package compared to other 0W-40 formulations, offering higher film strength to handle extreme heat and sustained high loads.

OH,,,,, and it costs a LOT more, so get your pocket books out.

 

I would hate an adjective laden sales sheet too so I don't blame you for hating to post it.

Did they do a 4 ball wear test to determine that 8t 8s better than the 5W-30 they make? How much temperature stability do I gain moving to that and how does it relate to a street car? I couldn't care less about what race cars use since I am not driving a race car

 

The devil is in the details?

 

Oh!

 

It's better in extreme use, such as tracking. It gets very hot here in SW Florida, during the summer especially. 10 quarts of M1 SC 0W-40 Dexos cost me $99.50 plus $9 for the filter. $108.50 for me to change my oil. That's not a lot more money to me. How much to maintain your 8-speed automatic transmission or the DCT in a C8. I can't believe what people argue about here. It's my car, my money and my choice. If you prefer the oil that was developed back in 2013 for the C7, then that's fine too. Many people here use Royal Purple products which are even more expensive. As long as the oil you use meets GM's minimum requirements. Next we can argue about fuel octane ratings and brake and clutch fluids.

 

I don't think more costly is so much an issue as worth. I am not one of those who feels like "Nothing is too expensive for my Corvette". If that is you, fair enough. I am willing to pay more but I need to see worth. 1% improvement for 100% more cost, IMO, is stupid except for certain conditions. Adjectives are great for people who cannot and/or will not understand numbers and that crowd is getting larger by the hour. I don't understand what "better" "means. It's easier for me to understand when you say 10% improvement and the cost is 30% more, for example.

 

I understand you completely Aklim but we are talking about a car that no one really needs. It's a car that people want and spend far too much for. It's really not a practical car and the maintenance costs are higher than most cars. People modify these cars to their tastes and spend tens of thousands on unnecessary cosmetic and go-fast items, exhaust systems, headers and x-pipes, countless sets of expensive wheels and tires that they drive on for a couple thousand miles. Most on here are never happy with the performance of their stock 460, 550, 650, 750, 1,064 and 1,250 HP powertrains and feel the need to make even a 1,250HP ZR1x faster. None of this makes any sense at all for a street driven car used to go to cars & coffee and sit around talking about how much power they have and maybe do a smokey burnout, so what is the difference if someone wants to spend another $20 on a DIY oil change. Most here take their Corvettes to specialty shops for every repair, maintenance service and modification done to their Corvette then never drive it, They spend thousands to have PPF applied and then spend thousands more on paint correction and ceramic ceramic coating, Llyods mats, CF engine covers, etc on a car they drive 1-2,000 miles per year and that spends 95% of its life in a garage filled with Corvette pictures, signs and trophies on the walls while protected from dust under an expensive custom fit car cover on a $100 battery maintainer. Then trade it in on the next latest and greatest Corvette for a huge loss and pay excessive markups to have the first ones produced. So don't lecture me on spending $20 extra of the money I earned for the oil I use in my engine in my car. At least I drive my C7 enough to get the use out of my oil and filter at each oil change. I had 80,000 miles on my previous Corvette that I bought with my money and maintained and repaired myself with my labor and my money. I can go on but its a waste of time. But thanks for your comments to those who had issue with my oil choice.

 

It's not a car!!! It's a lifestyle! One we CHOOSE to live in.

 

Io!

 

Thats a LOT to unpack Mr. Mike. Whew. And THAT is all I have to say

 

BTW. Can’t make it to Belle Isle. Family stuff. I’m disappointed but it is what it is

 

Begging your pardon but I don't think you do understand me if you think I am talking about $20. I am NOT against the idea of spending more. I am against the idea of spending more on an adjective. I bought a 383 from Lingenfelter for my 91 Firebird and later transplanted it into a 91 C4. No, it wasn't so I could have a talking point at cars and coffee since I don't go to them nor have much interest in them. I could see the dyno slip and the bill and I knew what my money bought. I could decide based on what I can afford and how much power it gave me for how much more. I don't know how to make a decision on "It is better" or "It's only $20 so what have you got to lose?" as to whether it is worth it or not. Tell me $15K for 200 HP more and I know how to decide if I want it or not assuming I can afford it. Tell me $15K for a more powerful engine and I can't be certain what I am getting.

 

Good morning, I wasn't really directing anything at you. Installing a 383 from Lingenfelter in your '91 Firebird is a great project. I admire this type of skill and passion. Transplanting it into a 91 C4 is too. What happened to the '91 Firebird since you pulled the 383? This type of work really interests me.

This is a good read:
CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion - Reply to Topic

 

You should know how these things start. Air filter replacement on the 91 Firebird with a 350. Got talked into a K&N cold air system. Well, throttle body and intakes and headers. Lingenfelter tunes it. Engine rings leaked. Might as well do a 383. Cheaped out on his fluffed heads. Bought Twisted Wedge heads with upgraded springs. After a while, valve spring broke and we found all the valves wobbling around on one side and valve had kissed the piston. New engine with AFR heads. Got to double down on it. Of course we had to use a different cam with more promise. Got it all tuned up. Someone smacked into it by accident. Bought the car back from insurance and took out engine and transmission. Transplanted both into 91 Corvette after changing the output shaft and tailhousing for the C4. With that much tied up, I had to drive it into the ground. Fortunately the wife got pissed with me spending time and energy, not to mention money so she had me trade it towards something newer. Didn't trust the C8 from the standpoint that I wasn't sure if the rear engine thing will keep going so went with a C7.

Bonus part. In a few days, I will get the C7 back and test the oil which is 5W-30 and we will see how it stacks up against the 0W-40 for my driving conditions. I already have the test for the 0W-40 so lets see how much better it is than the 5W-30

 

Look forward to your oil test results.

 

Our 2017 Z51 is now at 65k miles. About the first 25k done on M1 5W-30, M1 0W-40 since then. I get analysis done on every oil change.
The short story is that the 0W-40 has higher viscosity after ~5k miles than the 5W-30 has even when new. Other analysis results are about equal, with some minor run-to-run variations like I see even with the same oil. Since I do some autocrossing and occasional track day in the car, I think the 0W-40 makes sense for me. For most folks who normally keep the oil temp below 260'F, I don't think there is any benefit either way.
In our previous C6, I was having too much fun one day on the track and oil got to 290'F or higher for several 20 minute sessions, using 5W-30. Oil analysis at the next change showed everything normal and the engine was still doing fine when traded 20k miles later, at 102k miles total. Sometimes I think that for most people, 5W-30 vs 0W-40 is like arguing how many angles can dance on the head of a pin.

 

I have never had an oil test done. What does the test, test for and what does it show?

 

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

 

^^^^^
I use Blackstone Labs, there are several other companies also. I don't know if any one is better than the others, but I stay with one company so the results can be compared easily.
You'll get a report listing probably 20+ different parameters of the used oil, some are inherent in that oil and others tell you things about wear and contamination. Buried in the Blackstone info that aklim linked is a sample report you can read.

It's important to understand that the report tells you a lot about your oil, but only a little about your engine. Big oil manufacturers don't just use oil analysis to determine how good their product (and competitors) is, they also run real test engines and then tear them down.
But analysis can be useful- it discovered an air filter leak on another car that the dealer couldn't find until I got pushy with them with the results. It told me that another car had fuel dilution in the oil that had turned my marginally thin 0W-20 into something like 0W-10, which caused me to research and discover than in other countries without US CAFE standards the recommended oil was 5W-30 for that engine.
Since we take long road trips in the 'vette, this is one more little thing to hopefully prevent me from needing an engine change 2,000 miles from home.

 

Totally agree. Keep 1 lab. Any lab but keep one so testing has as much continuity as possible.

Unfortunately, people prefer the simplicity of some unqualified clown expounding his casual observation to a scientific report that could make them have to research what is being said.