LT4 timing?
FYI we have a thread going now on HPT site that you may be interested in following;
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...Question-Knock
HT
Any advice. There must be an easier way.
To be fair, my 130 mph run did have a "little" tail wind. All of my other 10.77 and 10.78 runs were right around 127-128.
Any advice. There must be an easier way.
Any advice. There must be an easier way.
I log these parameters in Real-time @ 2.5Hz (1 refresh per 0.4 seconds)
- Fuel Level (From Engine ECU)(%)
- Intake Air Temperature(°F)
- Ambient air temp(°F)
- Transmission Fluid Temp (GM Method 1)(°F)
- Engine Coolant Temperature(°F)
- Oil Temperature (Engine)(°F)
- Oil Pressure (Engine)(psi)
- Accelerator PedalPosition D(%)
- Throttle Position(Manifold)(%)
- Engine RPM(rpm)
- Speed (GPS)(mph)
- Speed (OBD)(mph)
- Air Fuel Ratio(Commanded)(:1)
- Timing Advance(°)
- Knock Retard(Deg.)
- Volumetric Efficiency (Calculated)(%)
- Run time since engine start(s)
I've been able to achieve 10Hz (1 refresh per 0.1 seconds) with these 4 parameters, I think my units max is 6 at that refresh rate.
- Oil Pressure (Engine)(psi)
- Engine RPM(rpm)
- Speed (OBD)(mph)
- Timing Advance(°)
Things I don't log, but have in the Past:
- Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term(%)
- Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term(%)
- Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term(%)
- Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term(%)
- O2 Volts Bank 1 sensor 1(V)
- O2 Volts Bank 1 sensor 2(V)
- O2 Volts Bank 2 sensor 1(V)
- O2 Volts Bank 2 sensor 2(V)
- Catalyst Temperature (Bank 1 Sensor 1)(°F)
- Catalyst Temperature (Bank 2 Sensor 1)(°F)




To be fair, my 130 mph run did have a "little" tail wind. All of my other 10.77 and 10.78 runs were right around 127-128.
During my four trips to the track with the car I've had as much as a 4/10ths variance between my best and worst ET of the night and it hasn't been because of the DA or outside air temps like you would normally expect. There were two nights where the car had been running a reasonably consistent 11.2 during time trials only to surprise me by going 11.0xx, both of which would have been high 10 second passes had I not been on the brakes because I was ahead of the guy during eliminations.
The biggest single jump I saw was a 2.5MPH increase in my trap speed and .2 drop in my ET between two runs made 30 minutes apart in the same lane. The biggest decrease was last week where the car had run 11.19 and 11.17 consecutively so I dialed 11.15 for eliminations only to end up with an 11.42 ET.
Even though I was having IAT issues with the Halltech last week, the huge ET variations still happened while the car was still totally stock. Looking through my scans I've seen different amounts of WOT timing, differences in the time it takes for the car to actually go WOT from when you first punch it, differences in my shift point RPM, differences in how much timing it pulls between shifts (and how fast it ends up recovering) along with what gear I end up in going through the traps in.
While the car may be fun for saying "Hey I just made a 10 second pass in a stock car!" without tuning it to reduce or eliminate some of the factors causing the inconsistency, it pretty much sucks as a reliable bracket racer. While I know for a fact from my other car (LS7/A6 C6 running mid 10's like clockwork) that it can be done, I just don't feel like giving up my warranty on the Z06 to have it do the same.
In the past it was possible to get quite a few major components fixed under warranty even with a modified car but now if the engine, transmission or different blows up then GM will connect to the car in real time to check for the presence of a tune before deciding whether to warranty it or not.
I can definitely share your frustration as one of the primary reasons I bought the car in the first place was to bracket race with after my other race car got stolen. Since I've been able to cut pretty decent lights with it consistently, the best I can hope for is to use it as a backup for my other car and if I have to run it in an important race I'll just dial REALLY soft and prepare to do some heavy duty fender racing at the end.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
During my four trips to the track with the car I've had as much as a 4/10ths variance between my best and worst ET of the night and it hasn't been because of the DA or outside air temps like you would normally expect. There were two nights where the car had been running a reasonably consistent 11.2 during time trials only to surprise me by going 11.0xx, both of which would have been high 10 second passes had I not been on the brakes because I was ahead of the guy during eliminations.
The biggest single jump I saw was a 2.5MPH increase in my trap speed and .2 drop in my ET between two runs made 30 minutes apart in the same lane. The biggest decrease was last week where the car had run 11.19 and 11.17 consecutively so I dialed 11.15 for eliminations only to end up with an 11.42 ET.
Even though I was having IAT issues with the Halltech last week, the huge ET variations still happened while the car was still totally stock. Looking through my scans I've seen different amounts of WOT timing, differences in the time it takes for the car to actually go WOT from when you first punch it, differences in my shift point RPM, differences in how much timing it pulls between shifts (and how fast it ends up recovering) along with what gear I end up in going through the traps in.
While the car may be fun for saying "Hey I just made a 10 second pass in a stock car!" without tuning it to reduce or eliminate some of the factors causing the inconsistency, it pretty much sucks as a reliable bracket racer. While I know for a fact from my other car (LS7/A6 C6 running mid 10's like clockwork) that it can be done, I just don't feel like giving up my warranty on the Z06 to have it do the same.
In the past it was possible to get quite a few major components fixed under warranty even with a modified car but now if the engine, transmission or different blows up then GM will connect to the car in real time to check for the presence of a tune before deciding whether to warranty it or not.
I can definitely share your frustration as one of the primary reasons I bought the car in the first place was to bracket race with after my other race car got stolen. Since I've been able to cut pretty decent lights with it consistently, the best I can hope for is to use it as a backup for my other car and if I have to run it in an important race I'll just dial REALLY soft and prepare to do some heavy duty fender racing at the end.
I log these parameters in Real-time @ 2.5Hz (1 refresh per 0.4 seconds)
- Fuel Level (From Engine ECU)(%)
- Intake Air Temperature(°F)
- Ambient air temp(°F)
- Transmission Fluid Temp (GM Method 1)(°F)
- Engine Coolant Temperature(°F)
- Oil Temperature (Engine)(°F)
- Oil Pressure (Engine)(psi)
- Accelerator PedalPosition D(%)
- Throttle Position(Manifold)(%)
- Engine RPM(rpm)
- Speed (GPS)(mph)
- Speed (OBD)(mph)
- Air Fuel Ratio(Commanded)(:1)
- Timing Advance(°)
- Knock Retard(Deg.)
- Volumetric Efficiency (Calculated)(%)
- Run time since engine start(s)
I've been able to achieve 10Hz (1 refresh per 0.1 seconds) with these 4 parameters, I think my units max is 6 at that refresh rate.
- Oil Pressure (Engine)(psi)
- Engine RPM(rpm)
- Speed (OBD)(mph)
- Timing Advance(°)
Things I don't log, but have in the Past:
- Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term(%)
- Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term(%)
- Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term(%)
- Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term(%)
- O2 Volts Bank 1 sensor 1(V)
- O2 Volts Bank 1 sensor 2(V)
- O2 Volts Bank 2 sensor 1(V)
- O2 Volts Bank 2 sensor 2(V)
- Catalyst Temperature (Bank 1 Sensor 1)(°F)
- Catalyst Temperature (Bank 2 Sensor 1)(°F)
During my four trips to the track with the car I've had as much as a 4/10ths variance between my best and worst ET of the night and it hasn't been because of the DA or outside air temps like you would normally expect. There were two nights where the car had been running a reasonably consistent 11.2 during time trials only to surprise me by going 11.0xx, both of which would have been high 10 second passes had I not been on the brakes because I was ahead of the guy during eliminations.
The biggest single jump I saw was a 2.5MPH increase in my trap speed and .2 drop in my ET between two runs made 30 minutes apart in the same lane. The biggest decrease was last week where the car had run 11.19 and 11.17 consecutively so I dialed 11.15 for eliminations only to end up with an 11.42 ET.
Even though I was having IAT issues with the Halltech last week, the huge ET variations still happened while the car was still totally stock. Looking through my scans I've seen different amounts of WOT timing, differences in the time it takes for the car to actually go WOT from when you first punch it, differences in my shift point RPM, differences in how much timing it pulls between shifts (and how fast it ends up recovering) along with what gear I end up in going through the traps in.
While the car may be fun for saying "Hey I just made a 10 second pass in a stock car!" without tuning it to reduce or eliminate some of the factors causing the inconsistency, it pretty much sucks as a reliable bracket racer. While I know for a fact from my other car (LS7/A6 C6 running mid 10's like clockwork) that it can be done, I just don't feel like giving up my warranty on the Z06 to have it do the same.
In the past it was possible to get quite a few major components fixed under warranty even with a modified car but now if the engine, transmission or different blows up then GM will connect to the car in real time to check for the presence of a tune before deciding whether to warranty it or not.
I can definitely share your frustration as one of the primary reasons I bought the car in the first place was to bracket race with after my other race car got stolen. Since I've been able to cut pretty decent lights with it consistently, the best I can hope for is to use it as a backup for my other car and if I have to run it in an important race I'll just dial REALLY soft and prepare to do some heavy duty fender racing at the end.




























