Another Cooling Thread
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,088
Likes: 1,829
From: Metro Detroit Michigan
As to the paper it would seem this is an engineering student paper/experiment probably done as an undergraduate senior design/ analysis course. Such courses used to be a requirement in most all engineering schools (this paper is from 44 years ago) to demonstrate some actual familiarity with an actual design of something relevant to the degree being sought. My observation is based on not seeing any degrees/experience citations behind he authors names as is/was always the case for such papers.
Some more papers or articles (with crossref citations) are listed on the following page, but I chose the other one because it was free, and these are pay-to-view. Maybe someone has a subscription?
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/...nalCode=uhte20
Last edited by Warp Factor; Sep 3, 2018 at 03:59 PM.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 312
Likes: 112
From: Salt Lake City
Evaporative cooling
I am no engineer. But it takes 540 calories to turn a gram of water at the boiling point into steam, and only 70 calories to heat that gram of water from 30 Celsius to 100 Celsius.
I also experience my swamp cooler taking in 100F air, blowing it over a wet sponge, and it comes out 75F on the other side.
There are also hi performance engine applications-unlimited airplanes at the Reno race-that have no heat exchanger in contact with air, because that causes drag. They use total loss cooling systems to evaporate the water on board thru the course of a race.
If you spray water on a radiator at 230F you are going to greatly cool that radiator, and hence the fluid inside.
I cannot do the calculations to see how that would work, but it is easy to test empirically.
Over the winter I am going to build a 2 gallon water tank and 12 volt pump with a switch on the top, that I racthet strap into the Z06s trunk, between the tie down loops. Power from the aux outlet back there. Run a 1/4" PE tube, into the battery compartment, out the bottom, somewhere up to the front, and put 3 garden mister nozzles (all from Home Depot or Amazon for about $20) in front of the foremost HX, transmission cooler in my case since it is an A8.
Probably make the tank out of pine boards and coat it with epoxy paint since that is quick/cheap.
Lots of 12 volt pumps on Amazon.
All up weight of probably 15#, with a gallon of water.
Then next summer when it gets warm in SLC, turn it on when I head out for a session and see if I can avoid the Limp, which has happened a couple of times after 15 minutes.
If I can do a full bore session with a gallon of distilled water I would be thrilled.
Only one more track day for me here in SLC in October, and I don't have time to build it this year, and by then temps are not bad usually anyway.
If anybody has any thoughts or experience, or critic along these lines please post it up
I also experience my swamp cooler taking in 100F air, blowing it over a wet sponge, and it comes out 75F on the other side.
There are also hi performance engine applications-unlimited airplanes at the Reno race-that have no heat exchanger in contact with air, because that causes drag. They use total loss cooling systems to evaporate the water on board thru the course of a race.
If you spray water on a radiator at 230F you are going to greatly cool that radiator, and hence the fluid inside.
I cannot do the calculations to see how that would work, but it is easy to test empirically.
Over the winter I am going to build a 2 gallon water tank and 12 volt pump with a switch on the top, that I racthet strap into the Z06s trunk, between the tie down loops. Power from the aux outlet back there. Run a 1/4" PE tube, into the battery compartment, out the bottom, somewhere up to the front, and put 3 garden mister nozzles (all from Home Depot or Amazon for about $20) in front of the foremost HX, transmission cooler in my case since it is an A8.
Probably make the tank out of pine boards and coat it with epoxy paint since that is quick/cheap.
Lots of 12 volt pumps on Amazon.
All up weight of probably 15#, with a gallon of water.
Then next summer when it gets warm in SLC, turn it on when I head out for a session and see if I can avoid the Limp, which has happened a couple of times after 15 minutes.
If I can do a full bore session with a gallon of distilled water I would be thrilled.
Only one more track day for me here in SLC in October, and I don't have time to build it this year, and by then temps are not bad usually anyway.
If anybody has any thoughts or experience, or critic along these lines please post it up
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,122
Likes: 452
From: Syracuse-Central Square New York Winer of the all Corvette race WGI 8/23!
It's been a long time since I did any heat transfer stuff but one thing I do remember is adding anything in the path to the end heat sink, in this case air, detracts from the heat transfer rate. The only thing that really helps is increasing surface area of the last thing before the external heat sink, in this case air. That is why you see heat sinks in electronics with a lot of surface area provided by multiple fins.even though the mass of the intermediate heat sink is less then a solid piece of equivalent external volume.
As to the paper it would seem this is an engineering student paper/experiment probably done as an undergraduate senior design/ analysis course. Such courses used to be a requirement in most all engineering schools (this paper is from 44 years ago) to demonstrate some actual familiarity with an actual design of something relevant to the degree being sought. My observation is based on not seeing any degrees/experience citations behind he authors names as is/was always the case for such papers.
If you want to spray something on the fins that really cools, maybe to a fault, NOX is an good choice. The bad news is you may crack the core due to rapid thermal contraction and in an actual race possibly trigger the safety crew from the vapor trail down track.
I actually used this method screwing around during a test day. It was effective however not really practical for actual racing where in later rounds you may have to run back to back with no time to refill the NOX bottle.
BTW it did cause the safety crew to roll from the vapor trail. It did however take the intercooler water temperature into the mid 50's F vs 100+ F with just air flow. I was using a 10 oz nitrous bottle marketed in those days as Sneaky Pete for people running in restricted classes trying to hide the nitrous from the tech inspectors. There were some fine explosions from people trying to use these bottles hidden in oil pans.
As to the paper it would seem this is an engineering student paper/experiment probably done as an undergraduate senior design/ analysis course. Such courses used to be a requirement in most all engineering schools (this paper is from 44 years ago) to demonstrate some actual familiarity with an actual design of something relevant to the degree being sought. My observation is based on not seeing any degrees/experience citations behind he authors names as is/was always the case for such papers.
If you want to spray something on the fins that really cools, maybe to a fault, NOX is an good choice. The bad news is you may crack the core due to rapid thermal contraction and in an actual race possibly trigger the safety crew from the vapor trail down track.
I actually used this method screwing around during a test day. It was effective however not really practical for actual racing where in later rounds you may have to run back to back with no time to refill the NOX bottle.
BTW it did cause the safety crew to roll from the vapor trail. It did however take the intercooler water temperature into the mid 50's F vs 100+ F with just air flow. I was using a 10 oz nitrous bottle marketed in those days as Sneaky Pete for people running in restricted classes trying to hide the nitrous from the tech inspectors. There were some fine explosions from people trying to use these bottles hidden in oil pans.
