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I use the wheel stud extenders, with the extenders the wheel is well forward away from the rotors.
Wonder if that is true for the 13 inch rear wheels??
PS: Just crunched some numbers. Boy hard to get Offset or Back Space # for C8 Z06 wheels! Best I found is a poster who just stated, answering a question of what is The C8 Z06 offset 35/40. Know many use their Cell phone and won't read past 280 characters but expending a few more electrons to put in source would be nice but best I could find. Wheel manufacturers guard the data! Like it's not hard to measure.
But using 40 mm offset for the rear 13 wheel yields a back space of 205 mm. The Reverse Logic "long" stud extenders are 200 mm. So just misses by 5 mm (0.2 inches.) Doesn't sound like much but IF that 0.2 inches hits the CCB rotor not good! As the saying goes, close only counts in Horseshoes and Hand Grenades. It this case might still be a "Hand Grenade!"
"Assuming" 35 mm offset is correct for the front wheel, the backspace is only 162 mm. So 200 mm wheel stud extenders are much more than needed to put the wheel on the extenders and slide past the rotor!
Wonder if that is true for the 13 inch rear wheels??
PS: Just crunched some numbers. Boy hard to get Offset or Back Space # for C8 Z06 wheels! Best I found is a poster who just stated, answering a question of what is The C8 Z06 offset 35/40. Know many use their Cell phone and won't read past 280 characters but expending a few more electrons to put in source would be nice but best I could find. Wheel manufacturers guard the data! Like it's not hard to measure.
But using 40 mm offset for the rear 13 wheel yields a back space of 205 mm. The Reverse Logic "long" stud extenders are 200 mm. So just misses by 5 mm (0.2 inches.) Doesn't sound like much but IF that 0.2 inches hits the CCB rotor not good! As the saying goes, close only counts in Horseshoes and Hand Grenades. It this case might still be a "Hand Grenade!"
"Assuming" 35 mm offset is correct for the front wheel, the backspace is only 162 mm. So 200 mm std extenders are much more than needed to put the wheel on the extenders and slide past the rotor!
Just a thought, but maybe don’t thread the extenders all the way onto the rear studs and maybe gain 10 or 20 mm?
Good point! Looks like you'll only need 6 mm. When I get mine and install rear plash guards hen anyone has available) will check and measure!
I had the ACS XL rock guards on my ‘23 Stingray. Supposedly they will have them available for the Z06/eRay at some point but I was told by them by the end of last year and their website still doesn’t show them. I’ll contact them today to get an update on if/when they’ll be available.
^^^ Thanks. Wondered why GM did not produce for C8 Z06? But with those wide rear tires need something. The E-Ray comes with side skirts that will help with rocker panel digs. BUT they are only 2/3 length. I may have to use PPF on a section near the rear wheels. Not a fan of "Saran Wrap" but may have no choice. Will hope ACS has them available soon!
Ditto on the Saran Wrap. Not a fan, but much less a fan of the rock chips.
I am thinking about doing a "Track Pack" type PPF coverage. Just the Front (and Grill Inserts), the Rockers, Wing, Mirrors, Valance and sections near the wheels (that you highlighted).
Then Ceramic coating everything else after a paint correction. Expensive, I know.
Regarding protecting the rotors, I swap wheels on three cars with CCBs often - one since 2011 - and have never had a problem. The best advice I have seen in the previous responses is to only lift the car an inch above the ground and slide the tire straight off while resting on the ground - it can't hit the top of the rotor and the caliper provides some additional protection. The stud extenders would be a great additional safety measure and would make it much easier to align the studs when reinstalling the wheel. I have never used the foam protectors.
^^^ Thanks. Wondered why GM did not produce for C8 Z06? But with those wide rear tires need something. The E-Ray comes with side skirts that will help with rocker panel digs. BUT they are only 2/3 length. I may have to use PPF on a section near the rear wheels. Not a fan of "Saran Wrap" but may have no choice. Will hope ACS has them available soon!
I got tired of waiting for ACS to answer on their chat so I just called them. They said that the C8 Z06/eRay rock guards are in “tooling”. He made it sound like the product will definitely be out sometime this year. He also said to sign up for notifications so I will be informed as soon as they are available.
I am a bit worried about vandalism with these CCB's. A hammer and a screwdriver or socket extension is all that is required to cause you $4k in damage.
Where do you live that you're worried about somebody taking a hammer & screw driver to your brake rotors?
Just curious how often you guys are dropping wheels on your brake rotors?
Thought I'd Post some pics prepared to include in my 1st "How To" E-Ray PDF when mine (at 3300) finally arrives. Have time while I wait impatiently!
May be useful for those getting their E-Rays first, who like myself, will be their first car with CCB brakes:
Install on front wheels looks straight forward, use two protectors per wheel. But how to fit with rear wheels having parking brake. This pic looks like the protectors fit but will take pic when my E-Ray arrives,
Good info from members on this Thread will be included. All my working career and life in general always followed the concept of "Only the Paranoid Survive." Easy to just use belt and suspenders when cost is moderate and risk high!
Thought I'd Post some pics prepared to include in my 1st "How To" E-Ray PDF when mine (at 3300) finally arrives. Have time while I wait impatiently!
You have way too much time on your hands. If anyone here needs a 49 page pdf of how to remove a wheel without damaging their brake rotor, they shouldn't touch a wheel in the first place. I've removed my wheels probably 100 times or more without the foam rotor guards and no issues. Heck my 14 yr old son removes the wheels for me often and doesn't hit the rotors.
You have way too much time on your hands. If anyone here needs a 49 page pdf of how to remove a wheel without damaging their brake rotor, they shouldn't touch a wheel in the first place. I've removed my wheels probably 100 times or more without the foam rotor guards and no issues. Heck my 14 yr old son removes the wheels for me often and doesn't hit the rotors.
Glad you have been successful not following GM recommendations. You might be surprised as how many positive comments I have received on my now ~40 page "How to Change Brake Pads" and dealing with the strong brake pad tape. Latest update starts with my C8 Z51 (includes info other members have provided, i.e. how to safely lift with jack and jack stands.) Yep don't make those for skilled of professionals as much as DIYers like myself. Each of the ~60 consist of many Pics with long captions. Actually easy to produce, many like those pics and this post, made while watching TV! Essential the 1st step (a Story Board) in making quality Video's as I have ~25 for my part time Internet business.
SIDEBAR
Like this sidebar, folks can quickly skip to pics/info of interest to them. BTW, glad your teaching your son. Started to work on cars with my Dad when 8! Skills learned from my Dad (and Uncle) allowed me to assemble an Olds engine bought for $10 fully disassembled with parts in peach baskets that I stiffed in a '41 Ford Hot Rod when 15! Kept me interested in math, science and later engineering.
Learned when I started working and teaching our customers, regional engineers a picture was worth << than 1000 words. My early area of expertise was Submerged Arc Welding (SAW) where everything is completely covered with what looks sand (actually flux which we sold millions of lbs at very high margins.) Can't see the Arc, Weld Puddle etc until the perfect weld (if done correctly) is visible when that "sand" is vacuumed up! (see pic below)
But did not understand the value of pics in writing until I recently wrote two books for CarTech (Advanced Automotive Welding and Weld Like a Pro.) In addition to 300 pages of words they required ~350 pics with long captions. Turns out most magazine articles (like the many car mags I have read -and still do) folks look at the Pics 1st, read the captions THEN ONLY if interested in more info read the text for that figure.
Not hard making pics. I just paste in MS Publisher, crop, add text, arrows etc. Been retired now 23 years. Have a part time Internet business selling welding related products I patented (pays for my car toys.) Have 6 US patents since retiring with many figures all made with Excel, Publisher including required shading. Fun, easy to do and all accepted by US Patent Office.
Have to include a Pic! This is one of over 100 such SAW systems that were in production. I invented a few years after starting in Welding R&D. It doubled the production speed of making the long seam in 40 foot long, high pressure gas and oil pipe where there are many thousands of miles in the ground! Lower pic is a cross section and one of the Alaska Pipeline as an example of these 40 foot long pipe sections!
Like your comment, "Don't need no stinking rotor protectors" recall similar comments from welding engineers at the US Steel etc pipmills where these SAW systems were installed. My comment, as here, when trouble shooting issues, "No, don't need to follow the recommended amps (3000 in total) volts, wire spacing etc but if you don't want defects you should!"
Glad you have been successful not following GM recommendations...
Like your comment, "Don't need no stinking rotor protectors"...
1. you apparently missed the sarcasm in my post. But my point still stands, that anyone who needs to read a pdf about how to remove a wheel, shouldn't be removing a wheel.
2. that wasn't my comment. I said I haven't used the rotor protectors, because my car did not have them when I purchased it. That said, I, and my son, can safely R&R the wheels without them, and without extended alignment pins. Now I do use an alignment pin on my BMWs because they don't have wheel studs.
^^^
Used the smaller M12 stud extenders on my 2017 Grand Sport with 12” wide wheels and 335 section tires. Having nothing to do with CCBs, just makes install easier. Will be a big help on the E-Ray 13” wide wheels and 345’s.
Don’t have them for my even wider, heavier rear wheels on my tubbed ‘34 Street Rod. Those tires are 420 metric 16.5" section width. Thankfully, seldom need to remove.
Thought about using these center post extensions instead of stud extenders...
However, I just heard that to install them, you have to remove the center cap. Which has to be pushed out from the back of the wheel.. first. If that is true, this won't work.
Can Anybody confirm the center cap has to be removed from the back, or is it able to be removed from the front without damaging it?
Thought about using these center post extensions instead of stud extenders...
However, I just heard that to install them, you have to remove the center cap. Which has to be pushed out from the back of the wheel.. first. If that is true, this won't work.
Can Anybody confirm the center cap has to be removed from the back, or is it able to be removed from the front without damaging it?
I use a similar system but my problem is not getting them off. It is getting them back on. Lifting and trying to align at the same time was difficult. Currently do no have CCB but to answer your question the removal process from the front has been discussed here in the past. I've seen some members using duct tape and another use floss.
You can stick some tape on the plastic insert and give it a yank, a plastic guitar pick or pry too also works fine to remove.
Uhhh, the flags might come off.... (don't ask me how I know)
I am a bit worried about vandalism with these CCB's. A hammer and a screwdriver or socket extension is all that is required to cause you $4k in damage.
I use these now but wonder if there is a size difference from C7 version?
^^^
Yep, C7 are smaller studs M12. Need M14 for the C8. I had purchased the long ones for my C7 as I had a Grand Sport with 12 inch wide wheels. BUT only the short ones for my C8! So purchased the long ones from the company that bought the business from Reverse Logic who made them, who also sell on Amazon.
When the great C8 Trained Tech who did the PDI on my 2017 Grand Sport, 2020 C8 did a few weeks ago E-Ray, brought the new ones as thought he was going to have to install the GM Scrape Armor screens and might want to remove a wheel. Turned out they were backordered.
Gave him the 3 used on my C7, I'll have no use for them. Not goin backwards!
01-18-2024, 01:20 PM
Looks like you'll only need 6 mm. When I get mine and install rear splash guards (when anyone has available) will check and measure!
