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I have a quickjack 5000 with the extension for my C8. I used lifting pucks and the QJ short rubber pads and needed to use wood planks (2x12") under all 4 wheels. My garage floor is slick and I did have the shorter planks slide on me. The longer planks did not slide. Got them all to work after a couple tries. I plan to try putting some non-skid drawer liners on the bottom of the planks next time. I think that will stop the short ones from sliding.
Has anyone started using the 5000 SLX across the car (both rears, both front puck locations)?...
Short answer, Sideways will not work on the C8. @Phil1098 has the right idea, the SLX works just fine the normal way.
Long Answer: .The QJ only ensures that the pressure is the same in both hydraulic cylinders(so I have read). This doesn't work when there are different weights on the 2 rails. I have lifted a BMW M3, Miata, and smaller cars with no issues sideways. In the attached picture, the Honda has a F/R 61/39 weight distribution. You see the QJ has the back wheels well off the ground, while the front is firmly planted. As the QJ goes up, the gap gets bigger and what is worse, the back end starts coming towards you because of the radial lifting.
Last edited by RobertRackton; 12-22-2020 at 01:04 PM.
If you choose to use the 4 jacking points cut into the frame, then yes, the SLX is not long enough.
However, I agree with the OP Phil1098 at post 1 of this thread, the SLX will work by using the rear jacking point, and 3 inches short of the front jacking point.
Unless you are dropping the engine+DCT, those 3 inches will not yield a significant amount of stability.
Last edited by RobertRackton; 12-22-2020 at 07:23 PM.
If you choose to use the 4 jacking points cut into the frame, then yes, the SLX is not long enough.
However, I agree with the OP Phil1098 at post 1 of this thread, the SLX will work by using the rear jacking point, and 3 inches short of the front jacking point.
Unless you are dropping the engine+DCT, those 3 inches will not yield a significant amount of stability.
Woa, do we know emphatically that 3” short of the recommended jack point is not significant and has this been proven by experts/engineers at GM or other professionals in this field? There is one place arm-chair mechanics do not want mess around, unless your life insurance policy is in good standing, at that is underneath a 3500lb vehicle.
I’m sorry, but Post 1 is incorrect and the 5000 SLX is not recommended for the C8 Corvette. Obviously, a lot of things may “work”, but from a safety stand-point it does not work based on manufacturers parameters and recommendations indicated by both GM and QJ.
Last edited by Verboten993; 12-22-2020 at 08:13 PM.
5000 SLX does not fit C8 safely - max jack points are 60” apart and C8 jack points are ~65” apart.
5000 EXT does fit C8 safely - jack points up to 66” apart.
Please edit as required.
100% incorrect. Mine is as SAFE as any lifted car. The weight bias is to the rear of the car and the QJ is lifting the rear at the oval lift hole. The front block is a couple inches behind the front oval, and that's fine because of the rearward bias. Instead of people posting ignorance (by definition a lack of knowledge), I only wish you could experience how stable, safe, and solid my car is on the lift. I have had it with rear wheels off, front wheels off, all wheels off. I have had my wife hop into the car while it's on the lift to apply brakes while I retorque wheels, etc. It feels as solid as while on the ground. I don't have the extension, don't need the extension, and won't buy the extension. If that's what you need to sleep, then go ahead.
The problem comes when you go the other way and try to lift a rear weight biased car by more of the front, it's just physics and it's going to be getting closer and closer to a tipping point. My setup is just the opposite.
Yes, the Quickjack 5000SLX works with the C8 without extension rails
@Phil1098 Well now I can vouch for you. I have the Quickjack 5000SLX and used it for the very first time to raise my C8 coupe. I read your posts carefully and modified the larger rubber blocks for the front lift points as you did. These lift the car about three inches shy of the standard lift slots. The car rests on the lift pads placed in the lift point slots at the rear. I agree that the car is stable as can be.
I purchased my Quickjack in the summer of 2019 on sale at Costco, but never used it until today. It wasn't until folks started lifting their new C8s that I realized the lift span was 3 inches too short. Considered purchasing the extension rails, but that created more issues. Would then be too high to slide the lift under the C8 without first driving onto planks. Also didn't want to deal with storage and added weight when locating the ramps. Nor did I want to spend more money.
As some additional info to others, I used my oscillating tool to modify the two tall blocks. Easy to do; just use a good vice to hold in place. Some photos below for added illustration.
Again, thanks Phil!
Quickjack full-height Quickjack lifting block modified with a cordless oscilatting tool Front lift point on modified block behind the slotted lift pad Position of lift point with modified tall block in rail. Note standard lift point with red puck. Rear: positioned short block at red puck located in standard lift slot.
Underbody contur which the modified lift block aligns into. Block rises into the groved area inside the outer white rocker panel and about 3 inches shy of the red puck.
How wide is the modified QJ block after shaving off the side? I'll be doing the same thing most likely when my C8 gets here as I have the QJ 5000SLT too. I have some modified pucks that I use on my Aston Martin that is 2.5" wide after shaving off one side to fit between side side skirt and the underside pan and it looks like it'll work on the C8 based on your pictures. Thanks.
Hello Phil1098 thanks for this. You used a slightly modified big block in the front, and you used the corvette wheel pucks in the back with the short QJ block.
Just curious, did you consider not using the puck in the rear and getting the Short block to cover the oval hole?
@RobertRackton Didn't see where Phil1098 responded to your question. I decided to use the red pucks for the ease of locating the correct lift points. You have to do a lot of feeling around under there to locate them. The bright red color makes it so much easier to align the lift blocks and aim for the correct contact points, especially considering the rotation of the Quickjack as it raises. The pucks give me added peace of mind that my detailer and dealer techs can locate and use the correct lift points. The pucks are not needed, but real convenient.
I don’t have any quickjacks in my garage. I am planning on purchasing the 5000EXT.
Sometimes the homedepot has the 7000 for sale that ends up 200-300 bucks cheaper than the 5000EXT but has the same 66” span, so I might opt for that when I am finally making my purchase.
I don’t have any quickjacks in my garage. I am planning on purchasing the 5000EXT.
Sometimes the homedepot has the 7000 for sale that ends up 200-300 bucks cheaper than the 5000EXT but has the same 66” span, so I might opt for that when I am finally making my purchase.
Careful, the 7000 is a little taller and heavier...
Gotcha....you are talking about the lift distance needed before the racks contact the car right? Good point....I was wondering that a little bit, but figure I would compare when I clicked ‘buy’....thanks for the stats
Mine is a 7000 and there are zero issues. I'll say one thing though, at 100 pounds each, the 7000 model is a beast. I hang mine on my wall and lifting the 100 pounds straight up in front of you is real.
Hello Phil1098 thanks for this. You used a slightly modified big block in the front, and you used the corvette wheel pucks in the back with the short QJ block.
Just curious, did you consider not using the puck in the rear and getting the Short block to cover the oval hole?
I had the lifting pucks and then just used what ever combination of QJ blocks so both ends started to lift at the same time.
@NextOne These is a great explanation of how it's done, thanks for the detailed pictures. I was always thinking the cutout was for the plastic on the outside, but its for the splash pan on the inside. That looks to be about 1/4" maybe 3/8" of a cut.
Also like the immaculate garage (and Dewalt brushless power tools).
Yes, thanks also for pointing out using the rear pucks. (where did you get those, I saw them somewhere.... )
Actually, something occurred to me about those permanent pucks. Those holes must get dirt, salt, water in them. It's a hollow aluminum frame rail after all. These pucks actually prevent that. I wonder if there are rubber inserts for the tie down holes? @Phil1098 Thanks for the reply and posting your SLX solution. It's almost like the 5000 rails at 70lbs is glued to the floor as it is, I can only imagine how the 7000 is. I suppose a couple sets of rows, bench and dead lifts a week can keep you in shape. For now, I keep them on the ground and drive over them. I'll see how that works when I get the C8.
Last edited by RobertRackton; 12-30-2020 at 01:52 PM.
I did, I used a rubber Corvette lifting puck in the rear holes and the shorter lift blocks and obviously no lift puck up front because it wouldn't hit anything, but modified the taller lift block. That section of frame is the same thickness as where the puck hole is and is as flat as Kansas. It lifted completely even and smooth and was VERY solid on the lift. The factory edge was against the painted rocker and the notch I cut out was for the belly pan lip onto the frame.
12-16-2020, 10:16 PM
