I have read all of the posts and I am still not sure if the standard 5000 model Quickjack can be used on a C8. I know there is and extension kit, but I do not want that - it will be too high with the extension stacked on top and it will weigh a ton. Is there an alternate front lifting position that will work SAFELY?

I found one YouTube video where a C8 owner says it worked fine without extensions, but he gives no specifics as to the lifting points. He does give a side view of the pucks, but that it not enough information.

 

So, it sounds like you really might want to re-read the threads on this. The EXT version of the Quickjack work just fine. I know as I have the 5000 EXT.

Or, you can try to rig up a way to use the wrong model. Your choice

 

This thread seems to make it pretty clear. Rear QJ lift point with the shorter rubber block, with the rear jack pads installed. Front QJ lift point where it ends up, with the thicker bock trimmed to fit outside the frame "rail." NOTE: I have not tried this. Do so at your own risk. Neither I nor the original poster guarantee results or your safety. You're on your own.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...es-and-no.html

Clear photos in this post:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1602744741

Rear of QJ on puck:




Trimmed tall block:






Front of QJ where it lands, with the taller, trimmed rubber block:



And this photo shows the part of the frame the notch it cut to clear:



And the car up on the QJ, with the front block visible under the frame:

 

@ddent01 How high does your C8 end up off the ground? Is it practical for oil changes or maybe a little too tight?

 

Not sure, but I think the pics above show the regular QJ, not the EXT version.
NOTE: There are two models of BL 5000. The regular model will also allow you to use an extension add-on, The BL 5000 EXT model already is a longer frame which fits the C* lifting locations.

EXT model Lift point spread

I - Maximum: 66" (1,676 mm) (I believe someone posted a measure of 64" for C8 lift points)
J - Minimum: 37.5" (953 mm)

Quickjacks have 2 lift positions, and max height is based on block or adapters you use. Below is max height. I can absolutely crawl / slide under mine

Lowered height

A - Frame only: 3" (76 mm)
B - With 2" block: 3.5" (89 mm)

Lifting height

C - Frame only: 17.5" (445 mm)
D - With 2" block: 18" (457 mm)
E - With 3" block: 19" (483 mm)
F - Max. height: 21" (533 mm)
G - With adapters: 21" (533 mm)
H - With adapters + pin: 23.75" (603 mm)

 

First 4 photos above are mine. I already had the standard (not EXT) QJ. I and others lift our C8s with no issues or concerns. If I were buying a new QJ, I'd get the EXT version. But I refused to buy the extensions for my QJ because of the added cost, the extra weight, the aggrevation of maneuvering and storage, and then not having enough clearance to slide the ramps under the car.

 

I have the stardard model 5000 QuickJack. Hence my question .

So, reading these replies, I guess the answer to my question is that no one can say for sure that changing the front position is safe.

 

I'm not trying to convince you it is. But I would not do this with a $90,000 car if I wasn't sure. After reading Phil1098's post, I did as he did and have no more doubts. Use jackstands for added safety measures if you're crawling under the car. I primarily use mine for detailing and wheel removal/rotation.

My initial concern was effects/damage to the underside front lift points. Was absolutely no issue. Was concerned about weight distribution, but that's toward the rear and why you do use the rear lift points. The car balance was rock solid when raised. But I do this only on my level concrete garage floor.

 

I've done oil changes on my C7 using the quickjack.

 

I also have done oil changes, tranny/rear end drains, and other jobs that require I get under my C7 using my QuickJack . I guess I will have to wait until I get my own C8 to make a decision.
Thanks everyone for the responses!

 

I can, it's a couple inches behind the normal jack point, the car has a significant rear weight bias and you use those for sure. I have been under mine many times, have had my wife sit in the car and apply brakes while tightening front lugs, etc. It is super stable and solid, absolutely safe. I've removed the rear belly pan and did an oil change and basically just looked around. (didn't need to remove for oil change, just wanted to.)

 

What the man said!

 

I vouch for the BL 5000 EXT too. It is the perfect length to accommodate the pucks.
Also used those red pucks that bolt to the C8 jack points for ease of locating them.
This should reduce the chance that anybody else will jack using the wrong points.

Regarding safety: Raise the jack until the two safety bars pass either the first or second stops located on the bottom rail.
Then lower the jack until the safety bars touch the chosen stop(s). This provides a safety mechanism in case the hydraulics fail.
If and when I plan to crawl underneath I would consider adding additional blocks or boxes under the vehicle in case both the bars and the hydraulics fail.
This would provide triple redundancy.

I have an epoxy floor. To keep from scratching the floor and make it easier to slide the QuickJack, I attached 1/8" thick sticky back felt pads on the underside of the QuickJack bases, especially at the points where the bases contact the floor.

My first project using the jack: I cleaned and ceramic coated the insides of the cast wheels, in order to make it easier to clean the wheel of brake dust.


Above: QuickJack requires some air gap in order to have enough leverage in its parallelogram, to begin lifting. It works.


Above: As shown, lifted to the first QuickJack stop point. The second one raises it to almost 24".

 

If you're going to buy a QuickJack, it makes sense to buy the EXT. If you already have a standard model, it appears to be perfectly safe to use as discussed in the prior thread and shown in the photos in this one. That's what I'm likely to do, but I'll also put a set of jackstands under the suspension as a redundant safety step.

 

I've used the modification without any issues. Was able to easily slide under the car and change the oil. The car is not going anywhere.

 

I bought the QJ 6000. Because the length is so long - Make sure to jacks in the right front to rear orientation for the lift angle. Otherwise the jack will hit the rear tires as it pivots up

 

Questions for those with QJ 5000 EXT....... Does any part of the frame that contacts the floor actually move when raising or lowering, or is it just the arms?

Reason for my question is that I have SwissTrax RibTrax open type Flooring and if it slides back and forth when raising or lowering, I would need to remove some flooring tiles. If it does NOT move the lower frame portion when raising or lowering, then I can leave my flooring tiles in place.

Since the QJ manual states to make absolutely sure to keep the frame rails parallel to each other, do the jacking puck locations actually line up in a parallel line, or are the rear two jacking locations slightly inboard ? I have my C8 and have had it jacked up many times, the old fashion jack stand way. Still APPEARS that the two rear points are not in line with the front ones. Does the QJ 5000 EXT placed directly under those 4 lifting points keep the frame rails parallel ?

Any regrets anyone, buying a QJ5000 EXT ?

My first choice is the mid rise scissor jack, but it has too many other reasons NOT to deal with it, such as being basically 5" tall when lowered and would require ramps to drive up onto it. Not to mention, just getting one delivered to a residence with out a fork truck seems to be an issue. Otherwise, it would require having my concrete floor cut and lowered where the lift would sit. Too much effort and expense.

Lastly, when not in use, do you just push them together and put them under your daily driver car, or do you buy their wall mounting brackets and stand them vertically on the wall of your garage ?

thanks,
Richard

 

The lifting trays are wide enough it doesn't matter if the front and rear are in line on the same side, what matters is you have the lifts parallel. I throw a tape from inside of the rear pivot of the lift across from me to the outside edge and then at the inside of the front pivot to the outside edge and verify they are within 1/4" or less of parallel of each other. Goes up and down smooth and easy with zero issues.

 

I have the BL-5000SLX with the frame extensions on racedeck free flow flooring which has a similiar open pattern to the swisstrax ribtrax. No movement of the base when operating the lift.

 

Phil, does the frame rail itself slide on the concrete floor, or just the arms raise and lower without moving the frame rails?

thanks,