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I would be tempted to just use this with the end sticking out of the recess behind the license plate. I am not worried about theft. How many thieves would even know about this and go through the trouble of removing the license plat hoping that something of value is in the trunk. I would be more worried about getting my wheels stolen than having something stolen out of my trunk.
Let's just say some of have to store expensive items in our trunks as last resort, so having a lock is peace of mind.
RE: Bowden cable - learn something new every day - I was referred to the bicycle brake cable (not shown in video that I had left over from my Esprit) so yes, definitely will be using a 'Bowden cable'.
The bumper cover doesn't need to be removed - that grey panel is the outside of where the factory lock goes.
RE: smaller version of lock - I could not find one any smaller - if you have a link for a smaller version that doesn't require cutting of bumper cover, that would definitely be better.
RE: Bowden cable - learn something new every day - I was referred to the bicycle brake cable (not shown in video that I had left over from my Esprit) so yes, definitely will be using a 'Bowden cable'.
The bumper cover doesn't need to be removed - that grey panel is the outside of where the factory lock goes.
RE: smaller version of lock - I could not find one any smaller - if you have a link for a smaller version that doesn't require cutting of bumper cover, that would definitely be better.
FOUND a much smaller one - this is even better
Is the 2.75" length close to the length of the MY22 OEM assembly?
Great Find! 5 STARS![snip] it just is a locked cover to the cable!
I made a few pics from your video and added what I think would work best for a cable. [snip] I would attach one end of the bicycle brake cable to the Kiddy Pull all behind the rear truck panel.
[snip]
My solution plans to attach cable to original point on latch - the red oval below is where a 2023 does *not* have a cable.
No need to attach to emergency 'kiddy' release handle - all contained inside just like the OEM assembly (green line for Bowden cable)
The problem is the attachment anchor is a weird yet-to-find cable anchor that pivots in the latch while cable is free to move.
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That thing is huge. I bought one on Amazon from my garage door and it is half that size. I think if that’s the route you wanna go you should look at a smaller one that will fit in the existing hole in the rear bumper cover. Why do you think that you won’t have to remove the rear bumper cover to install that? I don’t believe the panel right behind the existing hole goes directly into the trunk.
The panel behind the existing hole - I located where drilling a hole would allow the cylinder to be installed. Bumper cover stays on - red rectangle below;
My solution plans to attach cable to original point on latch - the red oval below is where a 2023 does *not* have a cable.
No need to attach to emergency 'kiddy' release handle - all contained inside just like the OEM assembly (green line for Bowden cable)
The problem is the attachment anchor is a weird yet-to-find cable anchor that pivots in the latch while cable is free to move.
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I thought attaching to the Kiddy Pull "bar" would be easier as it's a wide band. All would still be behind the linear. Only the Kiddy Pull handle itself sticks out of the hole in the liner. Looks like a wide band the cable end can be attached,
Thought might be easier to connect to the wider bar behind the panel would be easier. No need to match the OEM shape and size.
I don't understand the diagram above with the disjoint yellow lines?
It looks like the release would be pulling on the yellow cable in the key hole area and the tension provided by the 2-hole wall clip?
The yellow cable is crimped on the kiddy handle cable?
That may work easier than the hard-to-find cable anchor I show above, but not sure if I could get a cable crimper tool in that confined space.
^^^
From what I looked at in mine when Tech fixed the electrical connection the Kiddy Pull handle is attached to a wide band. It is behind the truck liner, and I think would be easier to attach the end of a bike brake cable to it. Yep you would have to attach the brake cable outer tube itself to a fix spot so when the inner cable is pulled only it moves. Since you have the 2023 when you are looking see which is easier. BUT the GM cables are close and may not be so easy to duplicate their arrangement of cable end and where the outer tube attaches.
The pics are a top and side view of the same thing!
The solution I'm looking at replaces the 2nd bowden cable - just like the 2020-2022 release mechanism.
The only difference is it would require threading the bicycle brake cable through the hole (vs. that impossible to find sliding anchor), have a ferrule to minimize movement,
install the cable adjuster and tensioning the cable to the key cylinder.
Unlock cylinder, pull cable/housing taut, and then pull stainless wire to unlatch the trunk mechanism.
Seems like a good solution with minimal disassembly/drilling.
^^^
I understand your objective BUT having looked at mine when it was exposed, just saying thought it might be easier to 1) attach the bike brake cable end to the band the Kiddy Handle is part of and 2) you have to attach the outer tube the cable goes through to a fixed part so only the cable moves. The steel bracket looks like it could be used with a metal bar etc bolted to it.
BUT if you can find the parts that do both and match GM fine. Since I have a 2020 just trying to provide some options from when I looked at mine as the pic I took below shows.
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I found the anchor that works with the sliding nature of the emergency trunk release.
My original comment - to thread the cable into the hole - would NOT work; it would bind the trunk solenoid from opening.
This anchor allows the original OEM behavior of allowing the emergency cable to slide along with normal trunk openings.
This allows the same OEM cable behavior except the end at the lock would be manually pulled (vs a lock cylinder pulling on the turn of a key)
^^^^ Great. And the force you can apply is more and easier then turning the GM FOB mechanical key!
A poster with the same issue I had of the electrical release not working, had the Dealer Tech brake the cable (or perhaps where it connects.) Took a while for GM to tell the dealer to use a 3" hole saw (perhaps when they defined it was the only viable way to open!)
While I was opening mine with the mechanical key (waiting for the parts to get to the dealer) I was using long nose plyers to turn the key as felt the hinge pin on the key might break.
^^^^
[snip]
While I was opening mine with the mechanical key (waiting for the parts to get to the dealer) I was using long nose plyers to turn the key as felt the hinge pin on the key might break.
The new GM retrofit assembly I have turns very easily - I don't feel like it will break on key at all.
Then again, the cable is not attached to a broken solenoid - I wonder if the tension you felt was due to the failure of the solenoid?
The existing working solenoid seems 'easy' the kiddy handle seems to require very little force.
Once I get the parts, I'll do a mock installation - no hole drilled, but attach the cable assembly and see how much force required once bowden cable is curled back to key cylinder opening in license plate area.
You seem to have the solution that I am looking for and thanks for sharing all your research! I may never need to use the emergency cable but will feel better knowing it is there.
... I wonder if the tension you felt was due to the failure of the solenoid?
No, I think it is the limited mechanical leverage you have with the GM key arrangement. Others have said it's hard to turn. I have tried the door and it's also hard to turn. It's a simple lever with <90-degree movement. Maybe GM will use your approach, pulling on the cable without limit!
[snip] Maybe GM will use your approach, pulling on the cable without limit!
There is a stop that will limit the pull. The OEM key cylinder definitely has a turn limit.
My proposes solution should be gently pulled until opened; any excessively pulling and it may damage the latch.
Received the smaller key cylinder - it's possible with the key cylinder insert that it sticks out about 3/4" more than the OEM emergency trunk release assembly.
However, this solution has:
1. Much lower cost - about $20-$25 in parts
2. No need to remove bumper cover (biggest advantage IMHO)
3. No need for 3" hole saw ;-)
I will do a mock installation hopefully this weekend.
Since I do have the OEM emergency trunk release, I'm leaning towards using that solution (the reason why I'm doing the mock up - complete the alternate solution for everyone else).
See pictures for part numbers, you'll need a 30" bicycle brake cable with the collar for mounting:
Looks like your original shorter find for $10.99 would fit with minor filing or sanding the hole in composite panel under the license plate just slightly?
This new one looks too long and may stick out past the rear truck liner??
Sleekvt - I’m going to have the bumper cover removed to install a High wing. So if I order 85511550, is that everything I need? If so seems like a no brainer for $130.
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Great. And the force you can apply is more and easier then turning the GM FOB mechanical key!
