When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
[QUOTE=RIrvine;1605346174]For some time now I have tried to get an Emergency Trunk Key for my 2022 that is a regular key head. Everyone told me NO. Rick Hendrick City Chevrolet said yes and ordered a generic key blank, cut the key ad it works --- Cost < $ 50 which is still high. Ace hardware said they would not even duplicate a key if I brought them one. Another Chevy dealer wanted > $ 100 to make a FOB key which I have and don't want to use. Every locksmith wanted $ 100+ One Chevy dealer said $ 700 as they would only do a complete FOB
Bottom line is ---- the key blank for the trunk of a 2022 is the same blank used on my 2018 Silverado truck and probably lots of late model GM cars. Keep at it and you can get one somewhere if
Located what it looks like is the access cable for the rear hatch issue. There is good reason why this is not advertised as use will give you access to the entire rear trunk and engine bay. This information should be provided to owners only for reason of security purposes. If such an incident where you are locked out of the rear hatch area, I imagine you have to contact some entity that can verify you are the owner of the C8.
Your battery charger plugged into your cigarette lighter should provide enough juice to open the hatch.
That doesn't cover the scenario where the electric solenoid fails in the locked position. That is where the emergency key *might* be last resort.
As with my C7 when fuel door solenoid jammed - doesn't matter if you have power; if the solenoid is jammed in the locked position, electrical power doesn't help.
Rather have last resort of a key-controlled cable release than a 3" hole saw.
Your battery charger plugged into your cigarette lighter should provide enough juice to open the hatch.
Originally Posted by johnodrake
As I understand the issue, the only time that you would need to cut a 3" hole would be if the electrical locking mechanism itself failed.
Originally Posted by sleekvt
That doesn't cover the scenario where the electric solenoid fails in the locked position. That is where the emergency key *might* be last resort.
...
Rather have last resort of a key-controlled cable release than a 3" hole saw.
Yep, as I posted that is where I had to use my key as the electrical connection to the unlock failed! Another poster had his fail. They Tech broke the key cable (it's very hard to turn!) and the GM solution was a 3" hole saw! That was many months ago well before this 2023 issue. GM knows there was a problem!
You realize the fob already has a key inside it?
Why do you need a second key?
I'm going to guess C8winston has my similar mindset:
#1 Key and fob in pocket for driving
#2 Key and fob at home for safe keeping and for procedures that required 2 fobs to be present (not sure about C8)
#3 Key for emergency while on roadtrip - if #1 lost, then #3 Key gets me back in car (which is still locked because of #3 fob in faraday cage bag preventing unlocking of car).
Now, if someone did a smash-and-grab, setting off alarm, AND still hangs around and forces the glove box open
(remember, it's still locked because #3 fob in faraday cage bag), then thief technically now has ability to start and drive car.
The odds of the above smash-and-grab and getting key are very small. But not zero.
That's why I carry a spare key/fob on long trips - because if you lose #1 key/fob, think of how much time wasted getting it duplicated.
Your luggage locked inside without access and need to spend the night? Break a window? Pretty sure that's not appealing.
For those who saw my day #1 post of buying my C8 and breaking down 6 hours later in a town 300 miles from home - can understand where I'm coming from.
And if it happens on a Sunday or a remote area like Monument Valley, Utah where I like to visit, you are truly SOL - surely out of luck.
Yep, as I posted that is where I had to use my key as the electrical connection to the unlock failed! Another poster had his fail. They Tech broke the key cable (it's very hard to turn!) and the GM solution was a 3" hole saw! That was many months ago well before this 2023 issue. GM knows there was a problem!
ARE YOU KIDDING ME?
SMH...
OK - going with my undocumented backup solution #4 that my 87 Lotus Turbo Esprit was going use.
Wow. Just wow...
I gave the technician my MY23 VIN and he confirmed this part # 85511550 is listed in the computer as compatible with my MY23 Corvette.
However, since the part is for 2020-2022, I will have to confirm this once I receive it since technically it's not for MY23.
I plan to retrofit myself - it looks like 3 mounting holes for rivets (?) and one for the keyhole.
Will post pictures when I get a chance to do it.
Here is GM #85511550 - apparently it contains TWO emergency latch assemblies - guessing the 3 hole version is for convertible (?) and the 2 hole is for coupe?
Does anyone have a MY22 convertible or coupe to confirm how it is attached?
Will try to find a diagram but have not been successful yet.
Took my 2023 C8 HTC trunk liner out to see how to retrofit this key cylinder cable release cable.
It's not pretty - they appeared to deliberately put a blank plate to discourage the retro fit.
The only way to retrofit from what I saw with my endoscopic camera is:
1. Mark keyhole with Sharpie (to be drilled after bumper cover removed)
2. Remove bumper cover.
3. Drill holes and rivet the key cylinder cable release lock housing to the panel
4. Connect the cable to the release lever.
I like the simplicity of the cable attached to child release lever, but the security aspect is horrendous. Trying to figure out a compromise version of that one.
Took my 2023 C8 HTC trunk liner out to see how to retrofit this key cylinder cable release cable.
It's not pretty - they appeared to deliberately put a blank plate to discourage the retro fit.
.....
I like the simplicity of the cable attached to child release lever, but the security aspect is horrendous. Trying to figure out a compromise version of that one.
Since you already pulled the truck liner back (as Tech did to repair my latch without removing the bumper) you can see where the "improved approach" outlined below might be easy to implement. Instead of cables or twine use a ~3/32-inch diameter ridged rod. Attach to the Kiddy Pull behind the Trunk Liner and thru small holes in the truck liner and right rear wheel well liner. It will probably have to be bent slightly but as it's a ridged rod not a problem. Still just pull the protruding end to unlatch. Could bend exposed end down if desired.
I don't see a big security problem as an issue as expect many would not be using this approach AND agree GM would not implement. Crooks are not likely to remove a wheel to see it one is installed! In addition, no need to typically store valuables, which can be put in the Frunk. Gaining access to the truck does NOT gain access to the passenger compartment.
1605411743[/url]]Here is GM #85511550 - apparently it contains TWO emergency latch assemblies - guessing the 3 hole version is for convertible (?) and the 2 hole is for coupe?
Does anyone have a MY22 convertible or coupe to confirm how it is attached?
Will try to find a diagram but have not been successful yet.
It looks like it comes with a key already in the lock mechanism?
ARE YOU KIDDING ME?
SMH...
OK - going with my undocumented backup solution #4 that my 87 Lotus Turbo Esprit was going use.
Wow. Just wow...
This is the solution proposed for 2023 folks today. Should not be hard to fabricate.
Top pic made when Tech was replacing the key parts of my 2020 latch when it failed to open. Suggstion is using a rodbehind the truck liner attached to the Kiddy Pull and tip extending out the rear fender well.
Maybe that is why there is no mechanical second latch on the Frunk -
The 2023 manual shows there is a cable release for the frunk. Not sure about 2020-2021.
That cable is 'safe' - only way to access is with key or otherwise alarm will go off without any key.
For rear trunk, what I was hoping for is that they left the mounting points from before and simply deleted the key release mechanism.
It would have be less expensive to leave the mounting points rather than deliberately remove them.
My speculation is that if deleting due to cost, they would not have redesigned to discourage retrofit.
The cost of the engineering change order to do that would not make sense.
Trunk key
