Battery
I ordered the Odyssey AGM.
Anyone know if the factory trickle charger is compatible with this AGM?
As I stated in Post #39, in most driving conditions The car is in what they call:
Fuel Economy Mode
In Fuel Economy Mode targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5 and 13.1 V. That will happen when the battery voltage is over 80% as it saves LT2 energy to NOT charge past. 80% is all that is needed and charging higher uses more engine power than needed.
It will switch to Charge Mode under some conditions OR IF the battery drops below 80% charge that computer chip using the GM algorithm will increase the alternator output voltage to a charging voltage and will show between 13.9 and 15.5 V.
SIDEBAR
My E-Ray has Stop/Start. So with a fully charged battery the gauge called battery (which is actually the alternator output as is your gauge) might read as high as 13.5 volts. That is supplying whatever power needed for fans, AC, sound system etc. I replaced the OEM battery with and AGM battery in my 2014 C7. Worked fine.
When at a Red Light and the engine shuts off the gauge (now reading ONLY battery voltage) will be 13.3 volts. If at a very long light it may drop to 13.2 volts as the battery has been supply power for fans, AC, sound system. When engine starts it goes to 13.4 to 13.5 volts for a short distance as than drops to 13.3 volts, the max GM elects to charge the Li-Ion battery. You can shut off your engine, press start without foot on brake and read battery voltage whenever you'd like.
PS: The GM Maintenance charger GM sells, and has since 2020 can maintain a Lead Acid, AGM OR Li-Ion battery. That is what I have for my E-Ray.
SIDEBAR:
However I seldom use the GM charger. I drive every week at least a few times into town, ~60 miles round trip. Enough to keep it fully charged. In fact with my two C7's and my 2020 C8 was on vacation for 3 weeks and did NOT use the charger. No need, started fine. My concern in NE SC we have many thunderstorms late in the day in summer. Have lost 3 sprinkler controls, a garage door opener and lights that are on the garage power line. Do not want to risk my car! Plus no need.
Going on a cruise and will not use it on the E-Ray where it's Li-Ion battery can probably go a couple of months and still start the car fine.
Last edited by JerryU; Apr 22, 2025 at 07:31 AM.
As I stated in Post #39, in most driving conditions The car is in what they call:
Fuel Economy Mode
In Fuel Economy Mode targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5 and 13.1 V. That will happen when the battery voltage is over 80% as it saves LT2 energy to NOT charge past. 80% is all that is needed and charging higher uses more engine power than needed.
It will switch to Charge Mode under some conditions OR IF the battery drops below 80% charge that computer chip using the GM algorithm will increase the alternator output voltage to a charging voltage and will show between 13.9 and 15.5 V.
SIDEBAR
My E-Ray has Stop/Start. So with a fully charged battery the gauge called battery (which is actually the alternator output as is your gauge) might read as high as 13.5 volts. That is supplying whatever power needed for fans, AC, sound system etc. I replaced the OEM battery with and AGM battery in my 2014 C7. Worked fine.
When at a Red Light and the engine shuts off the gauge (now reading ONLY battery voltage) will be 13.3 volts. If at a very long light it may drop to 13.2 volts as the battery has been supply power for fans, AC, sound system. When engine starts it goes to 13.4 to 13.5 volts for a short distance as than drops to 13.3 volts, the max GM elects to charge the Li-Ion battery. You can shut off your engine, press start without foot on brake and read battery voltage whenever you'd like.
PS: The GM Maintenance charger GM sells, and has since 2020 can maintain a Lead Acid, AGM OR Li-Ion battery. That is what I have for my E-Ray.
SIDEBAR:
However I seldom use the GM charger. I drive every week at least a few times into town, ~60 miles round trip. Enough to keep it fully charged. In fact with my two C7's and my 2020 C8 was on vacation for 3 weeks and did NOT use the charger. No need, started fine. My concern in NE SC we have many thunderstorms late in the day in summer. Have lost 3 sprinkler controls, a garage door opener and lights that are on the garage power line. Do not want to risk my car! Plus no need.
Going on a cruise and will not use it on the E-Ray where it's Li-Ion battery can probably go a couple of months and still start the car fine.

I installed the Battery Tracker Plus from AntiGravity Batteries about 50 miles ago. Since then I have used the Chevy/CTEK Trickle charger twice on different nights while parked in the garage and the SOC was 100%. The Cranking voltage was reported to be low at 9.49v. I initially figured it to be an anomaly and intended to wait a few weeks before acting on it to see now it would go. However since the State of Charge was reported at 100% (CTEK disconnected), I decided to listen to the radio and change some settings on the EQ and other parameters. This was only a 15 minute listen at varying volumes admittedly very high at times but never at distortion levels. I shut the car off and opened the Battery Tracker Plus to see a 56% State of Charge. I have never seen anything like this before and decided to upgrade to the Odyssey. I read too many horror stories about low or dead batteries causing all kinds of problems in the C8. For $300 I figure I would give it a try. I do realize the computer will ultimately decide my SOC. The Bose AMP surely draws a lot of juice so perhaps the Oydessy AGM will keep up a bit better.
Last edited by Ac6man; Apr 22, 2025 at 01:52 PM.
I installed the Battery Tracker Plus from AntiGravity Batteries about 50 miles ago. Since then I have used the Chevy/CTEK Trickle charger twice on different nights while parked in the garage and the SOC was 100%. The Cranking voltage was reported to be low at 9.49v. I initially figured it to be an anomaly and intended to wait a few weeks before acting on it to see now it would go. However since the State of Charge was reported at 100% (CTEK disconnected), I decided to listen to the radio and change some settings on the EQ and other parameters. This was only a 15 minute listen at varying volumes admittedly very high at times but never at distortion levels. I shut the car off and opened the Battery Tracker Plus to see a 56% State of Charge. I have never seen anything like this before and decided to upgrade to the Odyssey. I read too many horror stories about low or dead batteries causing all kinds of problems in the C8. For $300 I figure I would give it a try. I do realize the computer will ultimately decide my SOC. The Bose AMP surely draws a lot of juice so perhaps the Oydessy AGM will keep up a bit better.
Interesting. Yep I always have my Bose 14 speakers on pretty loud 98% of the time. In my E-Ray where I use Stop/Start the dash gauge reads only battery voltage when stopped. It drops from the max the alternator charges, 13.3 volts (~85% capacity) quickly to 13.2 volts. When I start moving (if it doesn't start the LT2 sooner) it jumps as high as 13.5. Within a ~mile it's back to 13.3 meaning the Computer is happy with that charge level!
Interesting. Yep I always have my Bose 14 speakers on pretty loud 98% of the time. In my E-Ray where I use Stop/Start the dash gauge reads only battery voltage when stopped. It drops from the max the alternator charges, 13.3 volts (~85% capacity) quickly to 13.2 volts. When I start moving (if it doesn't start the LT2 sooner) it jumps as high as 13.5. Within a ~mile it's back to 13.3 meaning the Computer is happy with that charge level!
"The 12V lithium-ion battery is charged by the K1 14V Power
Module while the vehicle is operating in the EV modes (Stealth
and Shuttle modes). Once the vehicle exits an EV mode and the
engine is powering the vehicle, the generator takes over 12V LiB
charging."
https://gm-techlink.com/wp-content/u...April_2024.pdf
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
My GUESS is the Converter is there because GM planned on a high mpg version of the E-Ray when they started the design in 2012/2013! Like Ferrari who did the same BOTH introduced Performance Hybrids then when a "government dictated" higher mpg they would use the forced Stop/Start software and start always on battery until the car reached ~45 mph. They would use different types of batteries. Need not be bigger as Toyota had a Hybrid that achieved ~50 MPGe with a 1.3 kWh battery smaller than the E-Ray 1.9 kWh! BUT would not be a fast charge/fast discharge! We may see it yet! But perhaps not as with GM staying on their Plan of all EVs by 2035 my "GUESS" is we'll see an EV Vette that does 0 to 60 in <1.9 seconds before 2030!
I also wonder if alternator based charging system for E-ray is the same or similar, targeting 80% SOC. We know it uses a different battery monitor module that is actually built in to the LI battery, rather than the external battery monitor in the Stingray. But is the algorithm different? I don't have a service manual description that covers the Eray. I think you measured voltages didn't you?
I also wonder if alternator based charging system for E-ray is the same or similar, targeting 80% SOC. We know it uses a different battery monitor module that is actually built in to the LI battery, rather than the external battery monitor in the Stingray. But is the algorithm different? I don't have a service manual description that covers the Eray. I think you measured voltages didn't you?
As far as Stealth Mode, it's a joke IMO! I can't get to the end of our 2-mile rural road to the highway at our speed limit of 25 mph! 1st a bit of a PIA to even use. Have to have belt buckled and wait for three Pics to appears in the dash. Then rotate to Stealth. Don't know anything is happening until you press the accelerator. Then our road has a number of turns, a few close to 90 degrees as it goes around "finger water paths" in our Lake. IF going say just 30 mph when you turn it speed scrubs. Press the accelerator ~20% to maintain speed and the ICE comes on instantly. Can't go back unless you, stop the car, go thru the ritual of selecting from the three pics etc. So hard to understand why they have the charge from EV battery complexity. I never use it so that Converter not used.
I expect the lower charge voltage the computer-controlled alternator provides, which is the same as the GM Charger I have, 13.3 volts. What is the reason that is Max?
- First it does increase battery life, all Internet info says that is the case.
- It is less stress on the battery. Like Jason Fenske's video on Li-Ion car batteries where he said it's like filling a parking garage, easy to find places if 80% full. Tough as it gets closer to 100%. His statement it takes more energy as you charge higher.
- That taking extra energy also means it's using more ICE power so like lead Acid Batteries where GM (and most modern cars) only charges to 80% it makes the system slightly more efficient.
BUT my guess GM does not say.
As far as Stealth Mode, it's a joke IMO! I can't get to the end of our 2-mile rural road to the highway at our speed limit of 25 mph! 1st a bit of a PIA to even use. Have to have belt buckled and wait for three Pics to appears in the dash. Then rotate to Stealth. Don't know anything is happening until you press the accelerator. Then our road has a number of turns, a few close to 90 degrees as it goes around "finger water paths" in our Lake. IF going say just 30 mph when you turn it speed scrubs. Press the accelerator ~20% to maintain speed and the ICE comes on instantly. Can't go back unless you, stop the car, go thru the ritual of selecting from the three pics etc. So hard to understand why they have the charge from EV battery complexity. I never use it so that Converter not used.
I expect the lower charge voltage the computer-controlled alternator provides, which is the same as the GM Charger I have, 13.3 volts. What is the reason that is Max?
- First it does increase battery life, all Internet info says that is the case.
- It is less stress on the battery. Like Jason Fenske's video on Li-Ion car batteries where he said it's like filling a parking garage, easy to find places if 80% full. Tough as it gets closer to 100%. His statement it takes more energy as you charge higher.
- That taking extra energy also means it's using more ICE power so like lead Acid Batteries where GM (and most modern cars) only charges to 80% it makes the system slightly more efficient.
BUT my guess GM does not say.
In stealth mode what accessories are functional? As you recall, with the Stingray, with car systems fully powered up, but headlamps, tail lamps off, I measured 10 amps of draw engine not running. With headlamps on, tail lamps, maybe heated seats?, other accessories, the draw could be considerably more. So, the connection between the high voltage battery system and the 12 volt system would not just be to "charge" the battery, it would also be to power the car systems and accessories in stealth mode. But it does sound like a bit of complexity for the limited added value of a stealth mode. I wonder how much it adds to the price of the car for that mode to function.
Edit: from the manual it looks like climate control is off during stealth - says turning on climate control deactivates the stealth mode. But I assume lighting system work?
Yep no climate control in Stealth. Heck that would be a show stopper in my wife's BMW Hybrid! It uses EV battery power for AC and heat. In fact if you program when you will typically drive it will start say the AC or Electric heat a half hour before. Found that out and was in a panic as we are on Time of Use power and the silly car was using electric in high cost power rates.
For example we are only paying $0.053 kWh of what is called Discount Rate. Actually with the solar and Nuclear power Duke has that 10 hours a day. Our Peak demand rate is $0.17 kWh. Called what they call BMW Genius and said I have a Catch 22. Can't set time I want charging unless I 1st set typical drive start time. Recall he said yep that is so it can condition the car when your plugged in! I tried to explain can't do that.
I then found the answer on the BMW Forum. Something I used when we first started on Time of Use Rates in ~1986. Put the electric Hot Water heater on a timer (now have a natural gas Rinnai for hot water.) So that is how I have the car set now. Can plug the car in anytime BUT the power is only active when the timer I installed allows! But it is amazing, they must have strip heats by the Vents as instant heat when you get in in the winter. Cools quickly as well. Not sure how it cools! But as I said we may go a month or more and never start the engine. Now on a full charge we're showing 52/53 mile range. In the winter is was somewhat less, assume it calculates power for heating!
GM and other manufacturers limit max lead acid battery charging, as they note with their charging algorithm, for fuel economy reasons:
Fuel Economy Mode
The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 amperes and greater than −8 amperes, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80 percent. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5 and 13.1 V.
• The wipers are ON for more than 3 seconds.
• The estimated battery temperature is less than 0° C (32°F).
• Battery State of Charge is less than 80 percent.
• Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph)
• System voltage was determined to be below 12.56 V
When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9 and 15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.
BTW, in my 2020 C8 I observed after the car was parked for several days:
- On the way into town (~25 miles) the battery volts dash meter, read the alternator voltage of ~14.5 volts
- On the way home there would be a stepped change as the computer lowered the alternator voltage to ~13 volts. That was sufficient to supply all amperage needed to operate the Fans, Sound System etc BUT not high enough to further charge the battery more that the GM desired 80%.
I found the same thing with how they charge my 12 volt Li-Ion E-Ray battery:
- The E-Ray alternator charges to 13.3 volts which is about 85 to 90% capacity NOT the highest typical Li-Ion car batteries can be charges >14.0. Yep good enough to whatever is needed in the car. It NOT the max capacity if you are using Li-Ion batteries in your RV and want max capacity to power whatever when stopped.
- My GM sold CTEK battery charger is designed for both Lead Acid and Li-Ion charging does the same.
- When charger was plugged in if the battery is already at 13.3 volts from alternator charging the GM Charger instantly shows per the LED indicator light 80% "usable" (per the institution manual.)
- To reach the 100% charged LED indicator light took 4 hours and read 13.36 volts on my Fluke meter. Not the ~14+ volts 100% capacity.
- But waiting 24 hours after charging (as an Internet source recommended) it reduced to 13.32 volts (essentially where the E-Ray alternator limits charging.)
- GM doesn't say why but a number of internet sources say it reduces required charging energy and in the case of Li-Ion batteries extends life.
Is this why it took so long to reach 100%
Will the CTEK do this? Does this charger maintain, float and condition as well as charge.
Is this why it took so long to reach 100%
Will the CTEK do this? Does this charger maintain, float and condition as well as charge.
My 2014 CTEK similar to GM's does that as well only for Lead Acid (& my AGM) batteries. Seldom used on my Vettes. No need as drive several time/week. Went on vacation for 3 weeks with my two C7s (a 2014 and 2017) as well as my 2020 C8 and DID NOT use the charger. No need, started fine when I returned (as GM says it should.)
When my Street Rod maintenance charger broke I mounted it on my Street Rod. It's on 24/7. I watch as it maintains my Yellow Top Optima AGM battery!
My 2014 CTEK similar to GM's does that as well only for Lead Acid (& my AGM) batteries. Seldom used on my Vettes. No need as drive several time/week. Went on vacation for 3 weeks with my two C7s (a 2014 and 2017) as well as my 2020 C8 and DID NOT use the charger. No need, started fine when I returned (as GM says it should.)
When my Street Rod maintenance charger broke I mounted it on my Street Rod. It's on 24/7. I watch as it maintains my Yellow Top Optima AGM battery!
I always buy batteries at Costco. 36 month full replacement Interstate batteries. Bought one last week for my 2022 C8, $133. You can replace it for free every 35 months if you want. No questions asked. I don't do that but I have heard of others that do.
BTW back in 1978 I replaced the battery in my 1970 Mercedes and noticed it was 8 years old and came new with the car. Don't think they would last that long anymore.
Feel about the same with GM only charging the Li-Ion 12 volt battery to 13.3 volts about 85%. Yep like my friends with RV's and multiple Li-Ion batteries, that want max capacity, so when parked at night, engine off they get max usage. Heck with life or saving energy!

BTW my 2025 GM charger which says for Lead Acid, AGM and Li-Ion has no optional setting. Just plug it in regardless of battery type.



















