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Its called a torque Wrench, and you set it for 53 inch lbs per chevy spec for the filter bolts. of course, this assumes that the bolt holes are clean . Why not just use the correct tool set to the correct values.
They put it back together and added the fluid with bolts broken? That's even crazier.
I would get my car out of there and get a lawyer, contact the local news station and GM.
That is the troubling part, no phone call to tell me beforehand of broken bolts, then do the entire service, put it back together, and tell me 8 hrs later when im picking it up ( or supposed to pick it up ).
plus the vehicle car fax shows all sevices prior was thru them.
The holes in the housing are through holes so the bolts won't bottom out due to residual threadlocker. My guess is it is more likely that the bolts were over-torqued. If so, the remaining bolt portion should be relatively easy to remove, hopefully without removing the housing. However if the bolt threads bound in the housing they will need to be extracted and the housing threads will likely need to be repaired.
Yep a small Easy-Out should work to extract the broken bolt. Then could install Heli-Coil inserts that provides new steel threads!
Didn't break a bolt BUT striped some 1/4-inch threads in the aluminum engine case when I installed a finned aluminum pan on my '67 Corvair! No in-lb torque wrench at the time.
Used Heli-Coils and repaired the threads I stripped and installed in all others to get steel threads! Kits comes with a drill, tap for the outside threads of the Heli-Coils and a tool that makes them easy to install. When the tool is removed the Heli Coil tightens in the threads you make to fit he Heli-Coil inserts.
They still sell that same finned oil pad for Corvairs! Can't be a big business! In addition to the external Fins, it has "Pin Fins" inside that are in the hot oil. They are located wherever the spinning crack and rods don't hit! It was a help in lowering the very hot oil when driving aggressively!
No question I would feel just like Whylee. It sure appears they were the offending party but proving like already said is tough. I would work on the fact there was no prior approval by the customer especially given the amount of the charge. I found that most shops now are really picky about having customers sign off on ALL repairs. Good luck, I hope it works out for you.
This makes me even more suspicious that the servicing dealer broke the bolts. They should have told you about the broken bolts before they completed the servicing if they were indeed broken before they started.
some tech had his torque wrench set to ft lbs instead of inch lbs. simple snap of the head
Talked to the service manager and like I suspected, I have no real proof that its never been messed with before. I could start a case with GM, but for now I just want my car fixed and get it back.
For me its a lesson learned, I will always check everything before a service so I have some proof.
Talked to the service manager and like I suspected, I have no real proof that its never been messed with before. I could start a case with GM, but for now I just want my car fixed and get it back.
For me its a lesson learned, I will always check everything before a service so I have some proof.
But how would you have known that you needed to check the DCT filter bolts yourself? And once you've done it you are most of the way into changing the filter (assuming they aren't broken).
The shop should have stopped and notified you of the problem instead of finishing the service to give you an opportunity to decide how to proceed. That is what a ethical shop would do. You may have a case based on that (I'm assuming they charged you for the DCT filter replacement). It's like going into a transmission to fix one problem, discovering another problem, fixing the original problem, buttoning the engine back up, and then telling the customer about the other problem that needs to be fixed.
Common screw up. Ashame but this is why I do my own maintenance.
i can only imagine how many c8’s are running around with a broken filter housing bolt and don’t know it.
incompetent dealers.
They did not install the new housing yet, They changed the filer, drained and replaced the DCT fluid then buttoned it all up. Would have been better to leave it all until the housing came in, now they need to remove it all again.
The DCT fluid change isn't required until 45K miles/3 years. Did you request them to change it early (the fluid doesn't need to be replaced when the filter is changed - they are on independant schedules) or was it the dealer's suggestion?
The DCT fluid change isn't required until 45K miles/3 years. Did you request them to change it early (the fluid doesn't need to be replaced when the filter is changed - they are on independant schedules) or was it the dealer's suggestion?
The fluid is at 3 years, the car was originally sold in Dec 21.
If they are through holes the fasteners can be drilled out and as the drill grabs the screw material it will drive the remnant out through the top. I typically use a small pilot drill and then a drill that is smaller than the minor diameter of the fastener. Maybe a 3/32 pilot and then a 1/8” for the second. This process causes the second drill to climb drill and grab the screw.
I had my free oil and filter changed at 4kmi because it timed out at a year. Next week it’s scheduled to have the filter changed now that’s it’s at 7500mi. I’m thinking about leaving a post it note on the steering wheel. I just don’t know what to say. Maybe the torque spec with a reminder that these are small fragile screws that often get broken off. This will be the last time that the dealer performs this service for me.
I just looked up the cost of the housing on an online Chevy dealer for OEM parts and it’s $68. Maybe full msrp is $100. How does the dealer come up with $1200 to install it? Is that the total cost with the fluid, filter change and housing? The housing looks fairly straightforward to install.
I just looked up the cost of the housing on an online Chevy dealer for OEM parts and it’s $68. Maybe full msrp is $100. How does the dealer come up with $1200 to install it? Is that the total cost with the fluid, filter change and housing? The housing looks fairly straightforward to install.
The filter change, fluid drain and refill is $1200, the filter housing is $1300 on top of that. I do not know whats involved to replace the housing, so im reluctant to take it on myself.
$1300 to replace a $100 part that has three fasteners and two slip fit fluid connections sounds a bit high. You might inquire how much labor they are quoting. I would also call another dealer to get a quote. They should cover this since it is their fault or GM’s from the initial assembly, but if I we’re to pay for their mistake I certainly would not over pay by 2-3x. Good luck.
The filter change, fluid drain and refill is $1200, the filter housing is $1300 on top of that. I do not know whats involved to replace the housing, so im reluctant to take it on myself.