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The oring groove is in the cover and it slides into the bore of the housing. This is a very standard method and is good for a fairly high pressure. As the pressure increases it loads the oring which increases its normal force against the housing.
Guess we need to pray for above-freezing conditions or else we could explode!*
* Isn't this the same configuration (though inverted, ring was in the housing) the Shuttle SRBs used?
Replaced DCT filter again yesterday, Took bolts off ,used plier to remove cover, remove filter, insert new filter, put cover on, put new screws back in, torqued to spec, done. No chasing etc.
Guess we need to pray for above-freezing conditions or else we could explode!*
* Isn't this the same configuration (though inverted, ring was in the housing) the Shuttle SRBs used?
I though about that too, but hesitated to mention it . But yeah. Richard Feynman's famous statement "'I believe that has some significance for our problem" referring to the hardening of the O-ring material in cold weather. I'm not even sure it had to be freezing. Didn't he put it in a glass of ice water with a clamp on it to demonstrate the issue?
Here is a more complete statement - look like it was 32 degrees - or that's the way he characterized it (this is still about an o ring....):
"I took this stuff I got out of your [O-ring] seal and I put it in ice water, and I discovered that when you put some pressure on it for a while and then undo it it doesn't stretch back. It stays the same dimension. In other words, for a few seconds at least, and more seconds than that, there is no resilience in this particular material when it is at a temperature of 32 degrees. I believe that has some significance for our problem."
Last edited by Andybump; Oct 17, 2024 at 08:57 AM.
Once again……….this is soooo way overblown!!!
take out 4 bolts,remove housing and replace filter,housing then snug up 4 bolts?!?!?! Wtf
Just like the dealer did as described in the original post? Keep in mind the discussion started because the OP's car, which was only serviced by one dealer, ended up with twisted off bolts. And, that not the only instance of that. There have been several other posts of DIYers that have done the same thing. Its probably because of over torquing but we don't know, and we will never know, regardless of how long its discussed. But I found the discussions interesting - I learned something about the sealing system for the filter (and have more respect for the design because of that) and also about the nature of dry thread locker. I do think that when putting in the new bolt, care should be used to insure that the thread are cleaned - a chaser is not necessary for that. It can be done by feel (some have said), or homemade chaser (and some have indicated that when used there was residual thread locker that was removed), or a wire brush. And someone pointed out that there was some resistance encountered when removing a bolt, and he used some extra care by working the bolt a little to loosen it some as it was removed. If anything, this thread is very useful in making DiYers aware of the need to take a little care in removing and installing those bolts. Nothing wrong with that.
^^^
Ah yes! Reminded of the difference between recession and depression. A recession is when your neighbor is out of work. It's a depression when you are!
Then bring to dealer if you cant do the work ..It is very simple and everyone is making a case of this. (Come on Rich S, chime in you chicken! lol)
Wasn't it the OP to this thread that had the dealer break the bolts (2) and then close everything up and refuse to take responsibility for breaking them, sticking the OP with a $1K repair offer?
I did say "happen to your car" which could be the home mechanic or the Dealer like OPs experience. Much of the reason many of us do our own work is because we can't trust our dealers.
During the DCT free filter replacement, my dealer found the DCT pan gasket leaking and did repair it about 10 days later (no problem, I have other cars). The repair order said they put in 8 Quarts of DCT fluid. From reports by hobbiets and dealer 3 year DCT fluid changes, it should take 9-10 quarts just using the drain, with the pan off, closer to the 12 quart capacity.. I asked if the dealer had filled, then run the shift protocol and then "topped it off". They said they had. When we were re-doing the track alignment, I took off all those E-torx bolts on the aluminum plate and checked the fluid level. It did seem to be full, but I should not have had to even worry about whether it was done right. They had only left 2 of the 8mm screws loose when putting the under-trays back on. At the track event, Willow Springs all seemed fine and the DCT fluid temps only got to about 215*.
Last edited by AzDave47; Oct 17, 2024 at 12:25 PM.
Wasn't it the OP to this thread that had the dealer break the bolts (2) and then close everything up and refuse to take responsibility for breaking them, sticking the OP with a $1K repair offer?
Dave this thread is all over the place... You may be right,.. dont take it to the dealer LOL.... It is a simple thing, just dont over tighten the bolts.
I though about that too, but hesitated to mention it . But yeah. Richard Feynman's famous statement "'I believe that has some significance for our problem" referring to the hardening of the O-ring material in cold weather. I'm not even sure it had to be freezing. Didn't he put it in a glass of ice water with a clamp on it to demonstrate the issue?
Here is a more complete statement - look like it was 32 degrees - or that's the way he characterized it (this is still about an o ring....):
If there's ice in the water, you can automatically assume the mixture (on average) is right at 32 degrees. It's a good way to calibrate a thermometer (same thing at the boiling point... at a low boil, you can assume you're right at 212 degrees).
All of that said, I would expect the rubber used to be somewhat compliant in sub-freezing temps, and the warmth of the DCT fluid (upon warmup) to keep the ring well-seated, even if a minor amount of blow-by happens while initially still chilly.
Yes. I think we were really just kidding about that - the discussion of O-rings was just a reminder of that catastrophic event. I think the C8 o-rings, and everything else is designed to withstand much colder temps. Makes me wonder though why the space shuttle booster o rings were not. Perhaps the requirement to withstand the very high temps limited how cold they work. Like tires? Summer tires work great when hot, but not cold - a different compound is needed for that.
The bottles are liters. When I drained mine it had about 8 in it, more on that in a minute. When I filled it to the level hole it took about 9, a little more. Liters. That's a bit more than 9 and a half quarts. I then jacked the car up sideways and added to 11 liters.
8 when I drained it. When I bought my used 2020 with 8800 miles on it and with no maintenance records I took it to the local chevy dealer the next week. I wanted to get a engine oil and filter and DCT filter on record in the GM system. Afterwards I smelled a burning clutch smell so I decided to buy the DCT fluid and change that myself. I found that the dealers mechanic had not reinstalled the shear plate correctly and had not refilled it to the proper level after the filter change, heck I really have to assume that he or she didn't even check it. It even put doubt in my mind if he used the correct oil, the engine filter is correct, and the engine oil level was correct. I do see four bolt heads on the filter cover so he/ she didn't break those but all my etorx heads were rounded off and one of the holes they go into was stripped when I went to put the shear plate back on after I changed the fluid.
The service writer said they also checked all fluids and did a multi point inspection. I asked "all fluids"? After saying yes a couple times she asked the mechanic (or went somewhere and said she asked) and when she came back said they checked most of them, specifically not the lift fluid. I did check and add to a few once I got home. This was after having the car one week and at that point I didn't have faith in what the car had.
After changing the DCT fluid and putting the proper amount in plus a liter and a half or so I had no more smell and the transmission was butter smooth.
I'll do my own maintenance thank you very much.
Originally Posted by AzDave47
Wasn't it the OP to this thread that had the dealer break the bolts (2) and then close everything up and refuse to take responsibility for breaking them, sticking the OP with a $1K repair offer?
I did say "happen to your car" which could be the home mechanic or the Dealer like OPs experience. Much of the reason many of us do our own work is because we can't trust our dealers.
During the DCT free filter replacement, my dealer found the DCT pan gasket leaking and did repair it about 10 days later (no problem, I have other cars). The repair order said they put in 8 Quarts of DCT fluid. From reports by hobbiets and dealer 3 year DCT fluid changes, it should take 9-10 quarts just using the drain, with the pan off, closer to the 12 quart capacity.. I asked if the dealer had filled, then run the shift protocol and then "topped it off". They said they had. When we were re-doing the track alignment, I took off all those E-torx bolts on the aluminum plate and checked the fluid level. It did seem to be full, but I should not have had to even worry about whether it was done right. They had only left 2 of the 8mm screws loose when putting the under-trays back on. At the track event, Willow Springs all seemed fine and the DCT fluid temps only got to about 215*.
Then bring to dealer if you cant do the work ..It is very simple and everyone is making a case of this. (Come on Rich S, chime in you chicken! lol)
I let the dealer do this work on mine. Not because I can't (I've rebuilt multiple DOHC motorcycle racing engines; I think I can change a filter), but because I no longer want to. I'm at the age and financial situation where I'd rather just drive the car than work on it. As a side benefit, since my C8 has never been serviced anywhere but Criswell, if they break a bolt they need to figure out how to fix it, not me. But I trust Criswell's tech to know what he's doing. He's probably changed more DCT filters than anyone else.
I let the dealer do this work on mine. Not because I can't (I've rebuilt multiple DOHC motorcycle racing engines; I think I can change a filter), but because I no longer want to. I'm at the age and financial situation where I'd rather just drive the car than work on it. As a side benefit, since my C8 has never been serviced anywhere but Criswell, if they break a bolt they need to figure out how to fix it, not me. But I trust Criswell's tech to know what he's doing. He's probably changed more DCT filters than anyone else.
Excellent! But for the DIY's, this is NOT a big deal that turned into one... Thanks