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be careful with the center retaining bolt on the front calipers, because if you damage it there is no GM replacement. You have to buy the whole caliper, Also the 4 pad guide pins are easily damaged, but replacement parts are available. Don’t ask me how I know.
Great Video! Hope you don't mind but made a pic from your video of what I have been asking for several months - how to remove pads from brake pad two sided tape IF you did not remove the caliper. Several folks said they did not want to try what I used on my early 2014 Z51 that also had the strong two sided piston to pad tape (also used on some European cars.) In fact a poster who said he did not want to risk using my 2014 high force method also said you'll have a hard time getting a large breaker bar on the caliper bolts to break them lose if only using a jack as there is not enough room! Hmm catch 22 for me as I will jack each wheel separately just enough to remove the wheel!
Devised my own method for the 2014 after some used hack saw blades etc! It required quite a bit of force using a stiff scraper (that pic also below modified with NOT NEEDED.)
But your video shows the difference! It the 2014 case the OEM backing plates were permanently attached (someway) as after removing the pads I tried to remove the backing plate and it just bent. Never forced it all the way to see if it was a spot weld or perhaps epoxy etc. Thanks for what you found!
Pic of what I used for my early (built September 2013) 2014 Z51 that used similar 2 sided brake pad tape. Note later 2014s did not use tape.
The C8 is Much Easier To Separate as Backing Plate (used to reduce vibration/noise as is the tape) IS NOT ATTACHED TO BRAKE PAD!
I watched this video prior to replacing my pads with Carbotechs on 7/12. Very helpful I must say!
I used a small/thin pry bar, a thin scraper and a small flat head screwdriver. With these I was able to get the pads free. My 2014 Z51 did not have the tape and neither did my 2016 Z06 so cannot do a comparison there. The passenger side front took some time(45 minutes) as it was the first one I did (also washed each wheel before putting back on). When I did the driver side next it was much faster in comparison(15 minutes) as I knew all the tricks from the first side. Of course, the rear brakes are super easy to do.
One thing I discovered when getting between the shim and the pad was that in 3 out of 4 cases, I did not have to completely separate the shim from the pad to get the pad out. Just remember to get the pistons to recess before doing anything to give yourself more room to work and it will go much smoother.
End result is still good stopping power and much less dust on my black wheels and silver paint!
I will add one more word of caution. When I changed my front pads I used a T40 socket for the 4 pad guide pins. The fit was loose and I badly damaged the heads. We changed the pads again today. As a precaution I ordered some extra guide pin bolts from the dealer. It turns out that the original 4 guide bolts were not T40 but TP40 and that’s why I had such a hard time, however, the replacement bolts are T40. Go figure. Just be aware that you may need both T40 and TP40.
^^^^
My TP40 came yesterday! Have lots of Torx sockets including a T40 BUT 1st Torx Plus. I'll check to see which fits best! The TP is designed to handle higher loads.
This pic shows the difference:
@OuchIAteMyself
HEY you messed up putting the spring clip back in. It is too far to the inboard side and resting on the pad material itself. It is between the caliper body and backing plate. This can cause the clip to jam the pad. Fix immediately!
it probably is damaged if you drove like this...
Also, on your brake bleed video, do you have fluid in the container ? Hard to tell. Anyhow, why are you looping the line so high up?
If you're using the container just with air, then it doesn't matter, it's pressurized anyhow, 2 ft going up makes no difference.
If you're using the container with fluid, well as you can tell see, you're trapping air at the top of the loop and not allowing liquid to travel into the brake fluid reservoir. You're gonna suck air in ! Air is trapped between the two arrows, the canister should be close to the highest point.
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; Jul 24, 2020 at 06:01 AM.
^^^^
Good observation. Puzzled when replacing new pads why the master cylinder fluid would need to be other than monitored for level as the pistons move very little; other than if changing to a higher temp racing fluid? Guess I'll have a new container of DOT 4 ready "Just In Case" I have to remove some before applying brakes. Won't touch brake pedal or start the car before I finish as want to be careful of inadvertently activating the eBoost's electric pump with the pads out!
BTW, fixed my Pic to indicate instead of those front pad "pin bolts" being TP40 NOT T40 to check! Looks like two different inputs, one saying a T40 socket wrench messed up the bolt head and another said it fit fine. The other puzzle is when buying new pins they were T40s NOT TP40 found on those on the factory calipers. Would not surprise me if Brembo has different bolts or changed mid stream. That is what happened with the early 2014 Z51 (which I had) that used two sided brake pad to piston tape on the front wheels and that was eliminated mid 2014 to "no tape."
Updated Summary Pic. Will make a "How To PDF" with lots of pics when I get my C8 Z51 and change to low dust pads.
C8 brake pad replacement - video
Great Video! Hope you don't mind but made a pic from your video of what I have been asking for several months - how to remove pads from brake pad two sided tape IF you did not remove the caliper. Several folks said they did not want to try what I used on my early 2014 Z51 that also had the strong two sided piston to pad tape (also used on some European cars.) In fact a poster who said he did not want to risk using my 2014 high force method also said you'll have a hard time getting a large breaker bar on the caliper bolts to break them lose if only using a jack as there is not enough room! Hmm catch 22 for me as I will jack each wheel separately just enough to remove the wheel! 
