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I’ve been using Eibach springs for 20yrs and was certain I’d buy them for the C8 before I even made a non-refundable deposit on the car. Just fantastic r&d and overall products.
I stalked the Eibach YouTube and FB pages anxiously awaiting the release of like 7mo. Of course, when they finally dropped I was late to the party when I found a random reply to a poster on YT saying ‘the springs were released 4 days ago’. Yep, Eibach.com sold out by the time I checked. Damn. Two days later a reseller listed some on EBay, and I immediately paid the $400+tax and waited 7 days for their arrival.
The part listings on the Eibach site DON’T list a non-mag, non-z51 coupe. So, before the install I phoned Eibach and they clarified for me that the spring diameters were the same for all models. My specific model was not there because they don’t know the avg. lowering amount to list. It was a gamble, and I’m sure around 1” down is what the springs yielded.
Advance Auto has a rental spring compressor that is just fine. The directions, I got from the Paragon YT channel and everything went perfect and tidy.
If I did the install again I would paint the matte black Eibachs a more flashy color. But, if an OEM like finish is your idea of fun…these are them for sure!
After driving and settling I don’t have any bumpstop or rubbing issues with my tire/wheel combo and smooth-ish Florida roads.
Front Springs. Matte blacks are Eibach, tall glossy ones are OEM. New supplied bumpstops are correspondingly shorter. These replace the OEM purple ones.
Rear springs installed.
These washers/spacers are on all of the upper control arm bolts. They are sandwiched between the arm and the body. If you want more than -3* camber then put this spacer on the outside of the arm, allowing the control arm to ‘fall into’ the car a bit more.
Upper control arm in the rear releases, one bolt and spacer/washer ready to be reinstalled.
Just a look at the rear suspension.
Taller rear springs and bumpstops, OEM vs Eibach.
Each OEM spring had labels attached from the factory.
I’ve been using Eibach springs for 20yrs and was certain I’d buy them for the C8 before I even made a non-refundable deposit on the car. Just fantastic r&d and overall products.
I stalked the Eibach YouTube and FB pages anxiously awaiting the release of like 7mo. Of course, when they finally dropped I was late to the party when I found a random reply to a poster on YT saying ‘the springs were released 4 days ago’. Yep, Eibach.com sold out by the time I checked. Damn. Two days later a reseller listed some on EBay, and I immediately paid the $400+tax and waited 7 days for their arrival.
The part listings on the Eibach site DON’T list a non-mag, non-z51 coupe. So, before the install I phoned Eibach and they clarified for me that the spring diameters were the same for all models. My specific model was not there because they don’t know the avg. lowering amount to list. It was a gamble, and I’m sure around 1” down is what the springs yielded.
Advance Auto has a rental spring compressor that is just fine. The directions, I got from the Paragon YT channel and everything went perfect and tidy.
If I did the install again I would paint the matte black Eibachs a more flashy color. But, if an OEM like finish is your idea of fun…these are them for sure!
After driving and settling I don’t have any bumpstop or rubbing issues with my tire/wheel combo and smooth-ish Florida roads.
Front Springs. Matte blacks are Eibach, tall glossy ones are OEM. New supplied bumpstops are correspondingly shorter. These replace the OEM purple ones.
Rear springs installed.
These washers/spacers are on all of the upper control arm bolts. They are sandwiched between the arm and the body. If you want more than -3* camber then put this spacer on the outside of the arm, allowing the control arm to ‘fall into’ the car a bit more.
Upper control arm in the rear releases, one bolt and spacer/washer ready to be reinstalled.
Just a look at the rear suspension.
Taller rear springs and bumpstops, OEM vs Eibach.
Each OEM spring had labels attached from the factory.
So far the ride has been really taught and responsive. Had a hard brake for a stoplight and the front end dive was controlled, tight and no rub.
But….I haven’t been too aggressive with turn-ins because I’m having a tough time finding an aligner. It 100% looks like the car is within the -3* camber for track alignment. But, that’s not me at all. Firestone, Tires Plus with drive on racks refused to even attempt to fit the heads due to damage liability. Tire Kingdom didn’t even have a 2020 update for their rack! Another shop was willing to try, but the center jacks on their drive-on rack protruded very high so we all backed out.
I have an appointment at a shop with an in-ground rack this weekend. I’ll update with specs if I can get it done.
Wow I hope that is not the case for me if when I get to that point. I have pretty good places around and did my air bagged car so I think alignment should not be any problem. I have noticed in the descriptions for Eibach springs they don't claim to be for Mag ride non Z51.
-Coupe 6.2L V8 RWD C8 | NON Z51 W/ NOSE LIFT NON MAGNERIDE
-Coupe 6.2L V8 RWD C8 | Z51 W/ NOSE LIFT NON MAGNERIDE
-Convertible 6.2L V8 RWD C8 | NON Z51 NO NOSE LIFT W/ MAGNERIDE
Although all above have the same PN.
But it is just springs so I think it should not matter.
Alignment went great! The newest area Firestone had an in-ground recessed full Hunter alignment rack. So, drive on was non eventful. The real question was whether the tread-clamp heads could get a caster sweep and roll-back (typical part of the laser alignment process) through the tight front wing clearance.
My Extreme Online Store XL mud guards HAD to be removed. No question. I removed these beforehand at home myself in about 30seconds each. But, also the front air spat towards the inside of each tire HAS to be moved/removed/bent…whatever to access the front camber eccentric bolt head. WTF?! Just a SLIGHTLY bigger notch in the plastic to allow a wrench to grip that bolt would adversely effect airflow…..GTFO Chevrolet Tadge!! So, the Hunter software instructs the tech on what plastic to remove…I told the tech to just remove 1/2 the splash shield bolts and finagle the wrench in there.
The caster eccentrics were a non-affair to access.
So, my instructions were to leave the caster and camber as was and center my toe. The shop staff spent more time admiring the car than physically turning wrenches on the 1200mile car, fine by me. The Hunter Software also had a ‘Track alignment’ option ready to go, which is very user friendly and greatly preferred by technicians over customer provided specs.
I bought the lifetime warranty jobber and was on my way for $200. Car drives as true as it did before, but my mind is way less stressed knowing my +camber is maxed😎. My advice after the Eibach install would be to ATLEAST have it checked for free, and decide if any fixes would be worth it for you/your tire wear/your budget.
Car engine is running, so dct can remain in neutral for the roll back and caster sweep.
Last edited by rajeevx7; Nov 21, 2021 at 06:09 PM.
Alignment went great! The newest area Firestone had an in-ground recessed full Hunter alignment rack. So, drive on was non eventful. The real question was whether the tread-clamp heads could get a caster sweep and roll-back (typical part of the laser alignment process) through the tight front wing clearance.
My Extreme Online Store XL mud guards HAD to be removed. No question. I removed these beforehand at home myself in about 30seconds each. But, also the front air spat towards the inside of each tire HAS to be moved/removed/bent…whatever to access the front camber eccentric bolt head. WTF?! Just a SLIGHTLY bigger notch in the plastic to allow a wrench to grip that bolt would adversely effect airflow…..GTFO Chevrolet Tadge!! So, the Hunter software instructs the tech on what plastic to remove…I told the tech to just remove 1/2 the splash shield bolts and finagle the wrench in there.
The caster eccentrics were a non-affair to access.
So, my instructions were to leave the caster and camber as was and center my toe. The shop staff spent more time admiring the car than physically turning wrenches on the 1200mile car, fine by me. The Hunter Software also had a ‘Track alignment’ option ready to go, which is very user friendly and greatly preferred by technicians over customer provided specs.
I bought the lifetime warranty jobber and was on my way for $200. Car drives as true as it did before, but my mind is way less stressed knowing my +camber is maxed😎. My advice after the Eibach install would be to ATLEAST have it checked for free, and decide if any fixes would be worth it for you/your tire wear/your budget.
Car engine is running, so dct can remain in neutral for the roll back and caster sweep.
Awesome thank you so much for the detail looks like you or they put some painters tape on the wheels before putting the device on the wheels for the alignment. I shouldn't have much an issue around here we have one guy local that did my air bagged car with a Hunter machine.
My plan is to go back up to the shop in a few weeks and recheck everything after some miles and fine tune it even more…..and I want to use my new access points😂
And yeah….those dirty *** heads will NOT be touching my $10k wheels ever, so I painters taped the spokes!
I ordered those lowering springs today and as soon as my car is out of storage i'll be getting them installed. Any advice you would give on installation?
I ordered those lowering springs today and as soon as my car is out of storage i'll be getting them installed. Any advice you would give on installation?
rajeevx7, just to confirm, your car is no Z51, no magride, and no front-end lift? Did the Eibach springs drop it an even amount front and back? In other words, does the gap between tire and fender appear different in the front vs back?
The reason I ask is I heard someone mention the front was dropped a bit too low compared to the back when using Eibach springs, but they may have had a Z51, so I am not sure if that applies to a base car with no added mechanical options.
rajeevx7, just to confirm, your car is no Z51, no magride, and no front-end lift? Did the Eibach springs drop it an even amount front and back? In other words, does the gap between tire and fender appear different in the front vs back?
The reason I ask is I heard someone mention the front was dropped a bit too low compared to the back when using Eibach springs, but they may have had a Z51, so I am not sure if that applies to a base car with no added mechanical options.
Thanks!
Non Z-51, no mage ride but I have the front end lift. It had dropped the car evenly but I haven’t checked in a while. It’s been lowered for a year now so I should check it again when I take it out of storage.
rajeevx7, just to confirm, your car is no Z51, no magride, and no front-end lift? Did the Eibach springs drop it an even amount front and back? In other words, does the gap between tire and fender appear different in the front vs back?
The reason I ask is I heard someone mention the front was dropped a bit too low compared to the back when using Eibach springs, but they may have had a Z51, so I am not sure if that applies to a base car with no added mechanical options.
Thanks!
I have heard of them dropping pretty evenly. Mine did pretty good but I also have the FE2 suspension non Z51 but with MRC. I have my rear and fronts down on the coilovers with the Eibach springs.
Even drop. Base suspension.
The Eibach rep said he didn’t think there was any difference in spring size between all the cars, just the drops may be different.
I now have a second C8 track car. Very slight from the cockpit, but from pics the body roll is evident. 3 options now, lower the collars, get corner weight set up, or Eibach it. I don’t know!
Eibach Lowering Springs installed!
