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Nick is the authority when it comes to Headers. All ARH products are superior. Would not consider any other brand.
The headers indeed add power that you can feel and hear, even with factory resonators.
Check out his dyno results. Facts are facts.
Well again... I have proven this "Facts are Facts" statement wrong on plenty of products with actual track testing... I didnt see an iota of gain from adding headers on the car on a road course. Which maybe they do add power but as soon as the car gets any heat in it the timing tables reign the car back into very conservative specs. Further, the flange on ARH headers wasnt perfectly flat which is why the superior factory gasket wont work and they include a thick gasket that i'm sure will fail down the line.
Not saying the ARH headers are bad, i do think they are superior than most brands but again i'm not going to blatantly says "hands down the best, facts are facts, look at this completely ridiculous Dyno that proves nothing other than the car was fully cooled off and the straps were loosened to create the highest reading ever" Lol
Well again... I have proven this "Facts are Facts" statement wrong on plenty of products with actual track testing... I didnt see an iota of gain from adding headers on the car on a road course. Which maybe they do add power but as soon as the car gets any heat in it the timing tables reign the car back into very conservative specs. Further, the flange on ARH headers wasnt perfectly flat which is why the superior factory gasket wont work and they include a thick gasket that i'm sure will fail down the line.
Not saying the ARH headers are bad, i do think they are superior than most brands but again i'm not going to blatantly says "hands down the best, facts are facts, look at this completely ridiculous Dyno that proves nothing other than the car was fully cooled off and the straps were loosened to create the highest reading ever" Lol
I've mentioned it in the past as well, but from the results I've seen I'd call ARH the "best" dragstrip headers, but for street/auto-x/road course duty I'd go for aFe due to the fat mid-range in favor of ultimate top-end along with better thermal management (aFe also retains the superior factory-style flange & gasket you mention).
Gains are hard to come by compared to previous generations and the (lack of) ability to tune the car. The ecu will adjust to your mods so that is a plus but its not perfect. For mods, I would recommend a top tier header like ARH, porting your intake manifold and throttle body.
I run an Attack Blue air filter and Brisk Racing spark plugs, Antigravity battery, a drag pack tire setup and some other small details that net me consistent mid 10 second timeslips at 128-130 mph in good air (still using the stock cats).I do believe Nick's headers are the best on the market without question.
@J5isalive I can appreciate the skeptical thinking because I have the same mind set, however, the dyno sheet you may be referring to in the video is from my car. I had the car dyno'd at EFX tuning in NJ before I took it to ARH and then redid it after I got it back from them. The results were the same as stated. No paid endorsement, just the facts.
So the dyno run before and after cat delete pipes should be zero gain according to ARH, Quote " We found zero net gains installing our very own high flow cats on a C8" So this video Is wrong?
The reason is actually quite simple, most of these aftermarket header brands are using 2.25-2.50" collector outlet flanges which is SMALLER than stock (2.75")! Kooks & Corsa are perfect examples of it, unfortunately. ARH & aFe are by far the best choices on the market considering both have factory-sized outlet flanges to match up to both stock and aftermarket cats, plus are 50-state emissions legal with CARB approval.
I installed my aFe headers working solo in the garage with the car on the ground; no reason to lift it, remove tires, wheel liners, etc. aFe recommends the Titanium Ceramic coated headers for use in the HTC due to thermal management. I have these ones in my car and engine bay temps are actually LOWER than factory temps due to the ceramic coatings keeping the heat where it should be, in the exhaust gas stream, plus improved ventilation airflow without all the bulky factory heatshields taking up space and retaining heat. aFe uses Cerakote Titanium V-164 ceramic coating; I used Cerakote Glacier Titanium C-7900 on my Corsa cats. Both are excellent coatings with great thermal properties. Here's my thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...port-cats.html
Titanium Cerakote Ceramic Outside Coating with Copper Ceramic Inside Coating:
This coating combination reduces the outside surface temperature of headers and reduces engine compartment temperatures by as much as 46% vs. non-coated headers. These headers are highly recommended for convertible applications where the top is stored over the engine compartment.
So the dyno run before and after cat delete pipes should be zero gain according to ARH, Quote " We found zero net gains installing our very own high flow cats on a C8" So this video Is wrong? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E23z3UtwMOQ dyno starts at 23.02.
It sounded to me like ARH was comparing AFTERMARKET cats to OEM cats when saying they saw no power gains. This dyno video is showing OEM cats compared to a test pipe. I
AFAIK, it is against Federal law to alter the emissions control system in any way, shape or form. This includes removing the OEM cats and changing them to free flowing cats. It is a big no-no. I ran catless on two of my previous cars. The one with a 20 degree overlap (at 0.050") cam in an LS3 stunk SO bad at idle it would make your eyes burn and the cars behind me at a traffic light would literally back up! Not to mention nobody wanted to inspect it. What was "ok" for shops to do in 2020, they won't touch in 2022. Being subjected to investigations and HUGE fines is simply not worth it for them. Running catless on a modern street car is idiotic. It makes zero sense.
My Corsa cats are 49-state EPA-compliant cores and pass state emissions inspection. Cicio, Paragon, & Kooks use the same emissions-friendly cores good everywhere but CA (they're 49-state, but not CARB).
I know for fact that the ARH are proven performance. I witnessed it the drag strip. One c8 with ARH including bolt-ons and another c8 with bolt-ons but without the ARH. The c8 with the ARH just continously pulled away from the bolt-on c8.....no contest. Do a search on YouTube.....Carlos Rioz and/or RearwheelDrive.
What you witnessed is not indicative of performance gain from a header swap, Different cars, different drivers, add "bolt ons" way too many uncontrolled variables for that to be considered "proof of performance gains"
What you witnessed is not indicative of performance gain from a header swap, Different cars, different drivers, add "bolt ons" way too many uncontrolled variables for that to be considered "proof of performance gains"
I disagree sir. First of all do you have a C8? If you do then you should know. Plan and simple.....put the headers on the other c8 then see what. happens. Please inform us of any c8 without headers that is quicker than the ones with the American Racing Headers but both with the bolt-ons included. Matter of fact most people won't do headers without the additional mods. If you want the ultimate natural aspirated go with American Racing Headers or AFE....the proven ones. I would not do just headers to my C8 without additional mods. And no I haven't done anything to my C8 as of yet. Just prefer to get additional drag strip runs in bonestock form.
Thanks for asking. I do have a C8. I have no intentions of "hot rodding" mine to improve 1/4-mile performance at a drag strip. I have a purpose-built car for that activity.
Got it, so you're here to talk about something you have no personal experience with. Thanks.
I've lost track of whats being argued... but i have every NA mod available for the C8 minus cylinder heads and I'm confident that once the car has any bit of heat in it the results are nullified.
Also confident i have been faster in the 1/4 than AK. LOL
Enjoy your car as you see fit Cracker. Here’s me thinking you would be first round runner up at any competitive event at any drag strip, commonly referred to as a Duck. Bolt on aftermarket stuff to your hearts content. Plenty of folks with first hand experience telling you other that what you think you know. Ingnorane has a price that may cut into your bolt on budget. LMAO
From: Early 2020 Z51 Coupe, Original Owner, Ahwatukee Foothills, AZ
Originally Posted by ak6960
Thanks for asking. I do have a C8. I have no intentions of "hot rodding" mine to improve 1/4-mile performance at a drag strip. I have a purpose-built car for that activity.
Thanks for asking! The Camaro is nothing special, nor is the owner. It is representative of a well sorted combination that meets the expectations of the established goal. I think that applies to any and all cars and why people choose to modify. I do commend you for your contribution to the forum. If I had spent the amount of money for the parts listed in your signature and achieved the modest increase in power on the dyno that you have, I would be as disappointed as you are. Thanks for sharing that and maybe keeping a fellow enthusiast from making the same mistakes. The silver lining on your cloud is that your not making enough power to hurt the DCT
Enjoy your car as you see fit Cracker. Here’s me thinking you would be first round runner up at any competitive event at any drag strip, commonly referred to as a Duck. Bolt on aftermarket stuff to your hearts content. Plenty of folks with first hand experience telling you other that what you think you know. Ingnorane has a price that may cut into your bolt on budget. LMAO
To each their own, my man. I have a fat stack of timeslips to my name as well, but I'll keep my C8-related discussions to actual personal C8 experience though.
To each their own, my man. I have a fat stack of timeslips to my name as well, but I'll keep my C8-related discussions to actual personal C8 experience though.
With soler tb and socal ported intake, guess where I got these LOL. Best run 7.78@ 94.15 mph 6000Da in the 1/8 mile. Not dead hooking. Where are you at? PS thanks again for your spare parts. Ron B.
In my opinion you see all these dyno comparisions and people freak out over 1 hp. If your dyno sheets say 8 hp increase but you pick up 2 tenths and 2 mph at the track then I’ll go with the track gains. Some people claim big hp from some headers and others say none but it seems everybody that runs them picks up at the track. I’ll take the track gains any day. Just my opinion.
With soler tb and socal ported intake, guess where I got these LOL. Best run 7.78@ 94.15 mph 6000Da in the 1/8 mile. Not dead hooking. Where are you at? PS thanks again for your spare parts. Ron B.
Just for reference 5000Da Bone Stock 7.95 @93.21 mph, went 93.93 next pass , but slower 60ft. What I am getting at is gains are very hard to come by. Sticky tires are a must. Put stock tires on carlos's car and the results would change.
In my opinion you see all these dyno comparisions and people freak out over 1 hp. If your dyno sheets say 8 hp increase but you pick up 2 tenths and 2 mph at the track then I’ll go with the track gains. Some people claim big hp from some headers and others say none but it seems everybody that runs them picks up at the track. I’ll take the track gains any day. Just my opinion.