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2) You can run a modified alignment of Front -2* Camber, -7-8* Caster with zero toe, Rear -1.4* caster, 0* caster, .06* toe in Did you mean Rear -1.4* CAMBER, 0* caster, .06* toe in ?
As someone who just started tracking this year, my advice... Don't go straight from 0 - 100, take your time and figure out how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go!
Go stock for a 1st or 2nd track event:
1. Add 2L of trans fluid and leave it in there. DCT fluid + Z51 = warranty covers tracking. Your Chevy Service Advisor is an idiot, but you are on the Corvette Forum, so you will know more about C8 maintenance than most SAs!
2. Attach brake cooling ducts. It's literally a handful of screws you can zip on in minutes.
3. Burnish your brake pads. If you can't safely follow the exact procedure, most important to get moderate-firm brake applications followed by periods of no braking for cool down.
4. Drop your tire pressures at the track, try 27-28 psi as a starting point and target 32-33 hot. You can always let more air out btw sessions. Air out is much easier than air in.
5. Have Fun!!
You DO NOT need a track alignment, or high temp brake fluid, or new wheels and tires, or new rotors and pads for just a couple HPDE type track days. Get out there and have fun! If you enjoy it, then spend more $. Also estimate your street vs track use. You wouldn't want a ***** to the wall track setup for a car that is driven 98% on the street... squeaky brakes, uneven tire wear, etc.
I started out stock + 2L. Then I added forged wheels and 200tw tires. Then I got a track oriented alignment: -3 F / -1.8 R and 0 toe all around. I ran stock brake fluid all year (autoX and track) without issue, and I'll switch to SRF in spring. I might also lower the car a bit and re-align, but I've been happy with this setup so far. Approx 10% of my mileage is on track or dodging cones. YMMV
Agree on most points but not the brake fluid.
Your brakes are probably one of your most important safety systems. Without them you will likely be testing your helmet and your seatbelt!
I wouldn't track without first swapping the fluid for RBF.
Also, I think the 27psi is with tire at cold temps correct? If you drove to the track and tires are at normal temps, I would tend towards 29/30 PSI.
The car seems to do better with 22-23 PSI cold, resulting in ~30 PSI hot. IIRC, the manual recommends 23 PSI front, 24 PSI rear starting cold pressures for track use.
The car seems to do better with 22-23 PSI cold, resulting in ~30 PSI hot. IIRC, the manual recommends 23 PSI front, 24 PSI rear starting cold pressures for track use.
I'm running stock wheels with Nankang CR-S V2 tires. I tried running 23/24 cold as recommended at my first track day. After 3 sessions I got a bad vibration at high speeds. I asked the mobile tire guy to check the balance of all four wheels. They were all out by quite a bit (2-4 oz). He said that the tires probably moved on the wheels. We marked the tires at the valve stems and brought the cold pressure up to 26/27 for the last two sessions. I still saw some some movement even after increasing the cold pressure. A friend who's pretty quick in his C8 says he starts closer to 30/30 and just takes a cool down lap once his rear tires get up to 37. I think the only way to avoid this problem is to use aftermarket wheels that have knurled lips.
Yep, I'm using wheels with knurled beads to mitigate this issue. If you avoid hard brakes until the tire warms up (first 2 laps?), I think this issue does not happen.
Your brakes are probably one of your most important safety systems. Without them you will likely be testing your helmet and your seatbelt!
I wouldn't track without first swapping the fluid for RBF.
Also, I think the 27psi is with tire at cold temps correct? If you drove to the track and tires are at normal temps, I would tend towards 29/30 PSI.
If you are literally doing your first track event, RBF is unnecessary imo. I was braking hard from 145 mph on my first ever track day without issue. As a track newb, I was driving maybe 7/10, nowhere near the absolute limit. The C8 also has a multi stage brake fade warning system that is calibrated to the stock pads.
27 psi cold pressure, target 32-33 psi hot. If normal temps, 29-30 would be a reasonable starting point. FYI the GM track prep guide recommends 23-24 cold, which is a bit low imo. Much easier to let air out btw sessions than put air in.
Hey All, just getting ready to take my car to a local race shop for the track alignment and corner balance. Everything is stock currently, except I lowered the car the other weekend while I had it up doing the oil change. Have done 3 track days so far with another couple booked for this season. I may do a little autoX in the future as well. All the other time the car is a spirited driver in the evenings on the twisty backroads...
Just wondering if i should back off from the full track alignment of -3.0 F and -2.5 R? The shoulders on my stock PS4S tires have taken a beating from the stock alignment and HPDE's at Mosport, so want to balance the wear out a bit better, track days by far eat the tires more than the cruise / spirited miles I put on the car.
Was thinking -2.5 F and -2.0 R thoughts on this approach?
Will eventually be picking up a set of Apex VS5-RS's and will upsize the tire setup. had thought about trying to mimic the Z06 alignment specs of -2.0 FR but not sure if that makes sense on Z51 car. Thanks!
SNIP...
Was thinking -2.5 F and -2.0 R thoughts on this approach?
I ran the recommended alignment settings for the one track day I've had with my car. I saw really nice temperature spreads across the tires.
Every alignment is a compromise. I think -2.5/-2.0 would probably be fine if you're not pushing hard at the track. I ran pretty close to that with my Cayman and got good wear on the street and track.