C8 Z51 Track setup questions
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 234
Likes: 147
You are 100% correct suspension is a game changer at the track. I didn't struggle with setting up my bikes, they are all dedicated track bikes and will never be street legal.
My dilemma is trying to find a setup that works both on the street and track - I'm mostly driving it on the street with the goal of going to the track a handful of times a season to let it rip without worrying about getting hurt or hurting anyone and of course going to jail.
My dilemma is trying to find a setup that works both on the street and track - I'm mostly driving it on the street with the goal of going to the track a handful of times a season to let it rip without worrying about getting hurt or hurting anyone and of course going to jail.
the ride isn’t all that bad if you dial the compression out after your track day.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 126
Likes: 77
From: Webster, NY
In the GM Track Preparations document it states the J55, J56 and J57 brake systems require a specific process for flushing the brake system. They reference the service manual. Does anyone have a copy of this procedure?
I know the system must be bleed with the battery disconnected. Any thing else? I use a pressure bleeder.
Thanks
J
I know the system must be bleed with the battery disconnected. Any thing else? I use a pressure bleeder.
Thanks
J
Last edited by ChampRacerJ; Jul 2, 2023 at 01:02 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 146
Likes: 36
From: Edina, MN
In the GM Track Preparations document it states the J55, J56 and J57 brake systems require a specific process for flushing the brake system. They reference the service manual. Does anyone have a copy of this procedure?
I know the system must be bleed with the battery disconcerted. Any thing else? I use a pressure bleeder.
Thanks
J
I know the system must be bleed with the battery disconcerted. Any thing else? I use a pressure bleeder.
Thanks
J
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 761
Likes: 335
From: Charlotte NC
In the GM Track Preparations document it states the J55, J56 and J57 brake systems require a specific process for flushing the brake system. They reference the service manual. Does anyone have a copy of this procedure?
I know the system must be bleed with the battery disconcerted. Any thing else? I use a pressure bleeder.
Thanks
J
I know the system must be bleed with the battery disconcerted. Any thing else? I use a pressure bleeder.
Thanks
J
Other than disconnecting the battery there's nothing special required. The old school 2-person method works just fine so I've never needed/used a pressure bleeder. IF you're concerned with residual fluid in the ABS module you could do the initial flush, hit ABS a few times and then re-bleed. I didn't bother and have had zero issues. I do a bleed with every pad change so by now any of that residual is looooong gone.
One minor annoyance -- SRF is nearly transparent so it's difficult to see the level in the master cylinder so you have to be extra judicious about keeping it topped off when bleeding.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 302
Likes: 148
From: Seattle, WA
Also of note, filling the brake fluid reservoir is the slowest process ever in this car. 90% of my brake flush using the pressure bleeder was spent filling the fluid lol.
I have always avoided pouring brake fluid into my motive pressure bleeder to keep the seals fresh, but next time I’m just going to pour it in and make sure I clean the motive out well after.
I have always avoided pouring brake fluid into my motive pressure bleeder to keep the seals fresh, but next time I’m just going to pour it in and make sure I clean the motive out well after.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,001
Likes: 242
From: Surprise, Az
Also of note, filling the brake fluid reservoir is the slowest process ever in this car. 90% of my brake flush using the pressure bleeder was spent filling the fluid lol.
I have always avoided pouring brake fluid into my motive pressure bleeder to keep the seals fresh, but next time I’m just going to pour it in and make sure I clean the motive out well after.
I have always avoided pouring brake fluid into my motive pressure bleeder to keep the seals fresh, but next time I’m just going to pour it in and make sure I clean the motive out well after.
Sr.Random input generator
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 7,792
Likes: 2,223
From: Sammamish, WA
I didn't see an update after this one, I've used the pressure bleeder both ways and can say it isn't possible to flush the pressure tank well enough if brake fluid is introduced. It is better to keep it dry and put up with keeping the master cylinder topped up between calipers. I also only pressurize between 5 and 7 psi.
If you need to quickly flush the reservoir, you can always start from one of the fronts, which flow faster. Due to baffling inside, it's no longer easy to empty the reservoir with a syringe, etc.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,001
Likes: 242
From: Surprise, Az
"If you need to quickly flush the reservoir, you can always start from one of the fronts, which flow faster. Due to baffling inside, it's no longer easy to empty the reservoir with a syringe, etc."
Good point! I have a professional grade mity vac hand operated vacuum pump that makes simple work of emptying the master a relatively easy task, though you really can't empty it as it has two chambers and impossible to get to the second chamber.
Good point! I have a professional grade mity vac hand operated vacuum pump that makes simple work of emptying the master a relatively easy task, though you really can't empty it as it has two chambers and impossible to get to the second chamber.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 664
Likes: 302
From: Nova Scotia Canada
You are 100% correct suspension is a game changer at the track. I didn't struggle with setting up my bikes, they are all dedicated track bikes and will never be street legal.
My dilemma is trying to find a setup that works both on the street and track - I'm mostly driving it on the street with the goal of going to the track a handful of times a season to let it rip without worrying about getting hurt or hurting anyone and of course going to jail.
My dilemma is trying to find a setup that works both on the street and track - I'm mostly driving it on the street with the goal of going to the track a handful of times a season to let it rip without worrying about getting hurt or hurting anyone and of course going to jail.
I'm fairly new to the C8 and tracking as well. I've driven a few on track. Some with track alignment and some still with the street alignment.
My suggestion is to try it straight out of the box and get climatized to the car. Decide from there what you're going to need to start lowering lap times etc. Your home track will also play a part in what you're going to need. For me I noticed that brakes were first on the list followed quickly by tires. I went from a highly modified C5 to the C8. It's been quite an adjustment.
1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2025
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Ron Fellows
When you pick up your amazing C8, I highly recommend the Ron Fellows C8 Driving School in Spring Mountain, NV. If you go within your first year of ownership, it costs only $1k for 2 days of learning and driving this great piece of machinery. Many of us have done it, but non of us regret going.
Have fun with the new toy!!!
Have fun with the new toy!!!
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 51
Likes: 18
From: Pacific NW
Carbotech makes various track compounds but with out a tire its hard to say what will work best for you. I would choose a tire than go to pads. Here is a compound guide. Carbotech Brake Compounds – Amp'd Autosport (ampdautosport.com)
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 170
Likes: 57
I am getting a Z51 soon. I want to do the Ron Fellows school. Does anyone do a school like this without a “track alignment”? I mean tire wear with this alignment makes it impractical to drive the car on the road? I’m reading the track alignments are involved and not cheap. Can you do light track driving with the stock alignment and still have fun and learn about the car?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,001
Likes: 242
From: Surprise, Az
About the only time alignments become expensive is when you convert to camber plates, its very time consuming process. Most of the tire wear comes from toe settings, not camber. You won't notice a "track alignment" driving the car on the street, for dual use be careful of the amount of toe that is set. Some folks go to the extent of changing toe setting before and after their track sessions. You could also work with the alignment tech to determine how much the tie rod ends have to be turned to achieve the toe you want for the track v.s. a street setting and do it yourself.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 664
Likes: 302
From: Nova Scotia Canada
I am getting a Z51 soon. I want to do the Ron Fellows school. Does anyone do a school like this without a “track alignment”? I mean tire wear with this alignment makes it impractical to drive the car on the road? I’m reading the track alignments are involved and not cheap. Can you do light track driving with the stock alignment and still have fun and learn about the car?
I've done around 4500 miles with track alignment with no issues. It's a bit "darty" on rutted roads but nothing significant. My alignment from the dealer was under $300.
You can absolutely enjoy the car with the oem alignment. It's still going to be great especially if you're a novice.
Don't over think it. It's easy to do with all of the info that comes at someone from online sources.
The biggest thing that I found I really needed to do first was brake pads. I left the driver aids all on at first which uses the brakes a lot so heat was an issue. I threw on a set of Hawk DTC 6.0s and I've been very happy with them on street and track. Got them off of Amazon
