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AGM is the way to go, it has literally doubled the life and reliability of batteries in the power sports segment. My 21' Silverado has auto stop/start and it has an AGM battery. For a while GM was crediting $50 for trucks they couldn't supply with the stop/start. So for the 50 you get an AGM and a HD starter, works for me.
^^^ Bought a Optima Yellow Top for my C6 because car was Yellow! The OEM battery leaked! Have a Yellow Top Optima in my 23 year old ProStreet Rod '34 Sedan. Replaced about 5 years ago because the old one was 9 years old. Was working great BUT car has only electric doors and battery is inside over he right rear tire. If I could not open a door when it was at a Car Show would be a PIA to: 1) Get in, then 2) Need very long jumper cables to start!
Put a Diehard AGM in my 2014 C7 that had a weak cell from day 1.
BTW don't bother to use my CTEK charger on my Vettes. Drive ~3 days a week the 50/60 miles round trip to town. Keeps it charged to the 80% the computer charging control allows. Have been on vacation for 3 weeks with two C7s and the C8 and zero issues staring. The C8 parasitic draw per AndyBump who measured, is ~15 milliamps. Per the GM chart should start after 30+ days parked.
Had Yellow Top Optima AGM on my C6 because car was Yellow!
First thing if you do not drive your C8 every day get a Deltran Battery Tender and connect it when it is parked. I have been doing this starting with my first 1987 C4,1989 C4, 2016 C7 and now my 2023 C8. I have had Batteries Last 10 Years.
Do you have that charger connected directly to the battery terminals? GM says the negative connection from the charger should be connected to a chassis ground because it bypasses the battery monitor and can cause issues if the monitor thinks the battery is discharged when it isn't. The negative lead from the charger should be connected to a chassis ground. It has nothing to do with damaging the charger and fusing it doesn't make a difference.And yes, I know the C8 doesn't have stop / start, but it does have the battery monitor, and the SOC value is used for other things, including whether OTAs will be applied.
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Proper Battery Charging
If a low battery SOC is preventing the OTA update installation, the 12V battery should be charged to meet the target SOC of 70 percent.
On some GM models, connecting the battery charger directly to the 12V battery posts will bypass the Battery Sensor Module, resulting in a default SOC value of 65 percent and a “Conditions Not Met” message.
TIP: The Battery Sensor Module (Fig. 5) is attached directly to the battery negative terminal. It determines the battery condition by calculating the battery SOC, functions, and state of health, which is used to help determine if the 12V Stop/Start system will allow an Auto Stop when the vehicle has come to a stop. To properly charge the battery, the negative lead of the charger must be connected to chassis ground, and not directly to the negative battery post. Connecting to chassis ground allows current to flow through the Battery Sensor Module during charging as well as be monitored. Connecting directly to the negative battery post charges the battery, but the current cannot be monitored by the Battery Sensor Module.
Do you have that charger connected directly to the battery terminals? GM says the negative connection from the charger should be connected to a chassis ground because it bypasses the battery monitor and can cause issues if the monitor thinks the battery is discharged when it isn't. The negative lead from the charger should be connected to a chassis ground. It has nothing to do with damaging the charger and fusing it doesn't make a difference.And yes, I know the C8 doesn't have stop / start, but it does have the battery monitor, and the SOC value is used for other things, including whether OTAs will be applied.
I did not know that that battery monitor could default to 65% charge status if it is bypassed during external charging.
I knew about that battery monitor and I knew about the recommendation to connect the charger to a ground instead of the battery post to avoid bypassing the monitor. But up until now, I had wondered whether or not there is any real consequence. The reason is that the actual charging when the engine is running also considers system voltage as well as the estimated charge status, so I don't believe there is a danger of overcharging. And the charge status will recalibrate on its own if the car is allowed to sit undisturbed for 4 or more hours (thats basically the calibration procedure). But I see now it could affect whether or not an update can be initiated.
After seeing your post, I found that info in a tech-link article with that information.
I did not know that that battery monitor could default to 65% charge status if it is bypassed during external charging.
I knew about that battery monitor and I knew about the recommendation to connect the charger to a ground instead of the battery post to avoid bypassing the monitor. But up until now, I had wondered whether or not there is any real consequence. The reason is that the actual charging when the engine is running also considers system voltage as well as the estimated charge status, so I don't believe there is a danger of overcharging. And the charge status will recalibrate on its own if the car is allowed to sit undisturbed for 4 or more hours (thats basically the calibration procedure). But I see now it could affect whether or not an update can be initiated.
After seeing your post, I found that info in a tech-link article with that information.
I agree it probably won't cause any long term issue, but if one is going to wire in a cable for charging it just makes sense to do it the right way and avoid any potential issues.
Do you have that charger connected directly to the battery terminals? GM says the negative connection from the charger should be connected to a chassis ground because it bypasses the battery monitor and can cause issues if the monitor thinks the battery is discharged when it isn't. The negative lead from the charger should be connected to a chassis ground. It has nothing to do with damaging the charger and fusing it doesn't make a difference.And yes, I know the C8 doesn't have stop / start, but it does have the battery monitor, and the SOC value is used for other things, including whether OTAs will be applied.
It's pretty expensive, but the only one (Li-Ion) I've found that plays perfect with modern car electronics. Antigravity sometimes made some of my electronics components lose it (culminating in check engine light).
so you tried antigravity on c8 and you had issues , but not with this one, interesting because hp obsessed said no issues. and some other forum members
My hands on experience with Antigravity has been on two C7s and a gen 5 Viper. By the time I switched to C8s, I was already using the MegaLiFe battery, and never had an issue with it on C7s, Viper, and now on both C8s I've used it on.
Antigravity batteries never got along well with the components during my experience. My C7 Z51 and C7 Z06 would first have the steering wheel controls freeze, and would then start throwing out codes like "service rear differential", etc, which are a sign of communication issues.
Interstate wet cell at Cost Co is $125.00 plus tax and old core three-year warranty. Best price you will find. Interstate AGM about $35 more and are very fresh because of their turnover.
Both are made by Johnson Control with a different label.
Johnson Controls sold off their Power Solutions division which made automotive batteries and no longer make automotive batteries. I believe Clarios now provides ACDelco/GM batteries. If the battery looks like a ACDelco battery then it is likely also made by Clarios.
Johnson Controls sold off their Power Solutions division which made automotive batteries and no longer make automotive batteries. I believe Clarios now provides ACDelco/GM batteries. If the battery looks like a ACDelco battery then it is likely also made by Clarios.
Johnson Controls sold off their Power Solutions division which made automotive batteries and no longer make automotive batteries. I believe Clarios now provides ACDelco/GM batteries. If the battery looks like a ACDelco battery then it is likely also made by Clarios.
Yep Clarios now owns the prior Johnson Controls battery manufacturing facility in town. We had toured ~10 years ago. After the batteries were charged in huge water filled tanks to 1/2 inch of the top, they went down a roller conveyor line where workers put on ~20+ different brand labels. They were operating on a just in time basis for folks like AutoZone, Advanced Auto, Sears (at the time) etc. A store sold one XYZ battery it was labeled and placed on their trucks and delivered.
SIDEBAR
Clarios also acquired the battery reclamation facility Johnson Controls built some 20 miles away for $150 million dollars on 685 acers in farm country. After the sale the promptly closed it!
We had toured that faculty about 5 years ago. We all had to wear HASMET suits, including foot covering! They had lead monitoring around the large facility and on the grounds. It sent real time Lead level info to the State.
They recovered 99% of all the ~14 million automotive lead acid batteries they processed each year. Clarios has other reclamation facilities in the US!
Johnson Controls had been using outside sources to deal with spent batteries but with US Laws (and lawyers for injured folks) they could be held responsible for pollution the small reclaimers created!
Pretty messy operation:
Batteries are placed in large jaw crushers by the pallet load.
The acid is collected and shipped to their battery manufacturing facilities.
The plastic was made into pellets for use in making more battery cases.
The lead was melted in huge furnaces, purified and poured into ingots that were shipped to their battery making facilities.
Tried to use my 22 coupe last night but couldn’t get into the car. Chevy roadside via AAA was excellent and determined I need a new battery. So what battery should I choose? Prefer a GM battery to keep the car OEM but willing to listen and learn before I flat bed it to the dealer.
Tried to use my 22 coupe last night but couldn’t get into the car. Chevy roadside via AAA was excellent and determined I need a new battery. So what battery should I choose? Prefer a GM battery to keep the car OEM but willing to listen and learn before I flat bed it to the dealer.
Depends on how long you will keep the car. I changed to an AGM Diehard in my 2014 C7 where you could not see the battery. Cannot see the battery in your C8! Have to remove plastic covers. I would not risk flat bedding. If you intend to keep >5 years buy a GM Delco AGM!
Can buy from Amazon, or check with Advanced auto etc. They GM has a better AGM battery (Absorbed Glass Mat as well.) OR let your fingers do the walking:
Bought a Optima Yellow Top for my C6 because car was Yellow! The OEM battery leaked! Have a Yellow Top Optima in my 23 year old ProStreet Rod '34 Sedan. Replaced about 5 years ago because the old one was 9 years old. Was working great BUT car has only electric doors and battery is inside over he right rear tire. If I could not open a door when it was at a Car Show would be a PIA to: 1) Get in, then 2) Need very long jumper cables to start!
