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Any change in engine bay temps while the car is in motion, on track, etc? Good work BTW.
Thanks, winter is here in South Dakota, I have plans on making 10 total sets, first 2 are out there. Yes, they worked when I tested them. Both test sets had positive feed back on fit and finish. Thanks for the interest. ps the first prototype on my car had easily 12 hours to build. The time now is about 5 hours start to finish. Packaging and shipping is about $20. All you need is materials, tools, and a lift to keep test fitting until they fit perfect. If they aren't something I can be proud to say I made, they don't go out. Like I told one person, I tried to get a shop to take this over. They declined at the $180 price point. And to Driv200 Thanks for all you have done to help, that takes a special person. Ron B.
I can do the leaf blower test and confirm. And yes, the scoops are a direct copy of the German C8’s. Member on this forum custom made the aluminum bracket that bolts to existing location. I think they worked great! I took FTD (Fastest Time of Day) at one of the most challenging tracks I have ever run.
2:47.1 my first day there. 30 minute sessions. 70 degrees. Temps never got above 244 and mainly stayed at 230ish or lower at 10/10ths competitive driving. The cool down lap was more efficient with the scoops. Most of the grid. 2 GT2 RS’s, GT4 RS, multiple other Porsches, a GT500, and another Vette. GT4RS GT2RS GT500 Track Package Installed under chassis air intake Headlights taped
I can't see removing the screens making any difference at all to airflow. You need to test one side without the metal scoop and the blower in the same position. It didn't exactly blow those paper towels off very forcefully.
Not sure if the leaf blower test is accurate, that is a static test, not an active aero test.
isn’t there a part sold by Chevrolet for export cars (let’s call it the Autobahn scoop) that does this? I thought there was a thread on it. Is it the same hole in the belly pan?
without a wind tunnel this is all guesswork, here is my devils advocate guessing.
When the car is moving, it creates downforce, that is the goal of the belly pan and the shape of the car. For downforce to happen the top of the car needs higher pressure than the bottom of the car.
The vast majority of the air is coming in from the side scoops, then escaping any way it can.. through the top, bottom, ?????
do we know those holes in the belly pan are there to allow air IN? Or there to allow air out? It’s seems counterintuitive to go through the trouble of putting in a belly pan to create a vacuum underneath just to put a vent hole there to allow air to equalize pressure with the areas higher pressure.
if we assume the holes are there to allow air to escape the very high pressure of the engine bay, then the scoop is counterproductive.
if that assumption is true, reversing the scoop to create a bottom air extractor might be more efficient.
this hole might there to aid in cooling by sucking air out when moving (high pressure engine compartment to low pressure under the car but also when sitting still. The hole may be AN AIR EXTRACTOR, not an inlet.
temperature measurements were not under controlled conditions, so maybe they aren’t that accurate?
Just my devil’s advocate guess. But you may have this 100% correct and yours is a knockoff of the Autobahn Scoop.
Not sure if the leaf blower test is accurate, that is a static test, not an active aero test.
isn’t there a part sold by Chevrolet for export cars (let’s call it the Autobahn scoop) that does this? I thought there was a thread on it. Is it the same hole in the belly pan?
without a wind tunnel this is all guesswork, here is my devils advocate guessing.
When the car is moving, it creates downforce, that is the goal of the belly pan and the shape of the car. For downforce to happen the top of the car needs higher pressure than the bottom of the car.
The vast majority of the air is coming in from the side scoops, then escaping any way it can.. through the top, bottom, ?????
do we know those holes in the belly pan are there to allow air IN? Or there to allow air out? It’s seems counterintuitive to go through the trouble of putting in a belly pan to create a vacuum underneath just to put a vent hole there to allow air to equalize pressure with the areas higher pressure.
if we assume the holes are there to allow air to escape the very high pressure of the engine bay, then the scoop is counterproductive.
if that assumption is true, reversing the scoop to create a bottom air extractor might be more efficient.
this hole might there to aid in cooling by sucking air out when moving (high pressure engine compartment to low pressure under the car but also when sitting still. The hole may be AN AIR EXTRACTOR, not an inlet.
temperature measurements were not under controlled conditions, so maybe they aren’t that accurate?
Just my devil’s advocate guess. But you may have this 100% correct and yours is a knockoff of the Autobahn Scoop.
As was stated, the part in this thread is modeled on the GM part, using the same openings. So it works just like GM design. The air just does not escape “any way it can“. GM has designed airway paths that work by design, not just accident.
As was stated, the part in this thread is modeled on the GM part, using the same openings. So it works just like GM design. The air just does not escape “any way it can“. GM has designed airway paths that work by design, not just accident.
ok, I missed that in the second post. But that was my point, if it wasn’t that european part, it’s all guesswork.
I got them from forum member itsonlyairandfuel. He has all the demensions. Perfect fit.
Do we know if he intends to make any more?
I've created some prototype models for 3d printing and will have at least one design for testing this weekend. I think it's possible to do better that the OEM part (there entire face of the opening is about 7.5", but the OEM doesn't span that far. Will report back with pictures/results.
No reason they shouldn't be successful, but will be testing with different print methods, compounds and shapes. If members are interested I don't see any reason I couldn't get something going soon.
I'll start a new thread once I've tested the first prototype. Pretty excited! Stay tuned.
Any change in engine bay temps while the car is in motion, on track, etc? Good work BTW.
Thanks, winter is here in South Dakota, I have plans on making 10 total sets, first 2 are out there. Yes, they worked when I tested them. Both test sets had positive feed back on fit and finish. Thanks for the interest. ps the first prototype on my car had easily 12 hours to build. The time now is about 5 hours start to finish. Packaging and shipping is about $20. All you need is materials, tools, and a lift to keep test fitting until they fit perfect. If they aren't something I can be proud to say I made, they don't go out. Like I told one person, I tried to get a shop to take this over. They declined at the $180 price point. And to Driv200 Thanks for all you have done to help, that takes a special person. Ron B.
Last edited by itsonlyairandfuel; Oct 25, 2023 at 09:45 AM.
Reason: added info
