LT6 engine failures/problems
I have tracked a lot of different cars from Vipers, Porshces (992 and 991.1 GT3), GT350R s, Rush SR ZLEs nd I will do the same safety and modifications to the Z06. Already have Forgelines and Hoosiers and will be upgrading the brake pads after the stock ones wear out. Most likely going with 2 piece Girodisc. I do plan to run a roll bar and harnesses as well.
If I have a failure on track and it's not covered - I'll let everyone know and I'll get it fixed on my own dime and keep moving forward. I can't stress enough how impressed I am with how this was handled!
Would be fun to meet up with you down at VIR at some point. Probably could have some serious fun. Have a couple others that I am sure would like to join us as well!
I am definitely looking forward to seeing C8Z's out on the track. Good luck at your upcoming event at VIR!! Can't wait to hear how the car works for you!!
You are saying you used to own a GT3. Not sure if you recall but GT3s are known for taking extremely short amounts of time to get the oil up to temp. When I drove my friend's 991.2 GT3, the oil temp was climbing pretty much in sync with the water temp and in 5 miles we were at 190/190. This was quite interesting for me because I always had issues with GT350 oil temps not exceeding 160 in winter. I think Porsche has some smart trickery to warm up the oil quicker because maybe they know the cold oil is no good with these high compression motors? Just saying

Again not blaming you at all. You have done nothing wrong here.
You are saying you used to own a GT3. Not sure if you recall but GT3s are known for taking extremely short amounts of time to get the oil up to temp. When I drove my friend's 991.2 GT3, the oil temp was climbing pretty much in sync with the water temp and in 5 miles we were at 190/190. This was quite interesting for me because I always had issues with GT350 oil temps not exceeding 160 in winter. I think Porsche has some smart trickery to warm up the oil quicker because maybe they know the cold oil is no good with these high compression motors? Just saying

Again not blaming you at all. You have done nothing wrong here.
I have owned a total of 9 Corvettes over decades and never had single problem with any of them.
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Since the motor failed, I'm being even more diligent than I was before. I plan to run the car in tour mode ONLY for the first 500 and not exceeding 4k ever. My dealer will do an oil change as my Corvette tech suggested (I would do this myself but want documentation).
Not being defensive here; but if I am the reason the motor failed the first go round - It's gonna get ugly when I actually drive it like it's meant to on track!
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1606142350
I too have experienced the lower than traditioonal oil temps cruising for about 30 minutes in mild NC weather in my Z06. Maybe this will help add color or get rid of some internet conspiracies from forum members and Youtubers with very little subs...
I just pinged one of the GM employees that builds C8s at Bowling Green and asked for his guidance.
From what he said, there hasn't been any chatter regarding this issue at the plant, meaning it's not on their radar as a known issue. However, he did state something interesting which may help clarify the low temps.
He stated that traditionally, the oil temp sensor is on the oil sending unit by the engine block therefore reading higher numbers. The Z was engineered differently and the oil sensor is actually at the bottom of the oil tank away from the block reading cooler temps than what we traditionally used to.
He also stated that the protection or gauge will be your water temp sensors which are still at the motor level so that should be your engine temp indication. I always warm up my car to 151 degrees prior to putting it into drive and then typically stay below 4K until after 172 degrees for protection.
These factors plus the larger coolers are contributing to the lower than "normal" oil temps. Hope this helps.
Since the motor failed, I'm being even more diligent than I was before. I plan to run the car in tour mode ONLY for the first 500 and not exceeding 4k ever. My dealer will do an oil change as my Corvette tech suggested (I would do this myself but want documentation).
Not being defensive here; but if I am the reason the motor failed the first go round - It's gonna get ugly when I actually drive it like it's meant to on track!
As a side note, while location of the sensor may explain a lower reading, I'd like to highlight this is not a very good design because at the end of the day owners should know the temperature of the oil that's going to the pistons and the crank. Without knowing this, how can anybody rely on the temperature reading?
One of the good ways of telling if the oil is warming up "good" and doing its cycle of completely evaporating the water mist in it is doing blackstone oil analysis. One must do this after regular city driving of 2000-3000 miles, doing track driving can completely skew results. But basically if blackstone oil analysis indicates oil viscosity was lower than expected, that may mean water vapors inside the crankcase never evaporate because they never reach 212F. Same goes for fuel. Some fuel always escapes piston rings. If oil gets up to the operating temp, this fuel will not last inside the oil whereas if fuel stays there and more fuel gets in there, when the car isnt driven and parked the fuel will lower the viscosity of the oil as it will act like a thinner.
Without knowing how the oil pump works in the Z06, best thing we can do is this oil analysis. My gut feeling tells me Chevy isnt stupid and wouldnt run 145F oil in a high compression 8600 rpm FPC V8 long periods of time. The location of the sensor probably exaggerates the situation BUT I still think the oil maybe too cold or colder than ideal for too long. They probably went a bit overboard with excessive cooling due to C7 Z06 overheating issues and what we are seeing is an unfortunate side effect. My GT350 had a similar issue like this and my oil would never get over 160F November-March. As a result, oil changes done in those periods of time always had excess fuel in oil as well as visocsity readings lower than normal (30W vs 50W). I knew this after first season and always took it easy in winter months. Something to keep in mind.
I think it's too early to place any blame on the oil temp; auto manufacturers routinely design for at least a 2:1 viscosity variation; we don't know the exact range of bearing BOC (operating condition) that the bearings are designed for, and at this stage we don't even know if these few issues are design, manufacturing, parts issue, tolerance stackup, assembly, or some combination of the above at a bad statistical stackup, or even the failure location inside the engine.
I will agree that oil analysis will be very interesting on the LT6; the presence of the high vacuum changes the evaporative temperature range for the pcv system, and the 150-160-degree oil may be within spec for water removal.






















