ignition box question
The box results in a smoother idle and because the dwell is set by the box, the adjustment of the points is far less critical. For instance, with the box plugged in the car runs OK, but the points can be off so far that the car will not even start with the by-pass plug in place.
The only disadvantage is that you need to use the by-pass plug and pull the box's fuse if you jump the car or you will burn out the box. This is clearly stated in the instructions, but when the car was in the shop, they didn't know this, jumped the car, and burned out the box. I came down to the shop and inserted the jumper and it ran fine until I replaced the box.
Using the box, you by-pass the ballast resistor so the box sees a full 12 volts. I have a jumper wire on the ballast resistor with a plug that I unplug if I need to go to points.
Also, I use Accel high performance points that don't bounce. When using the Mallory, the points only serve as a switch, so they carry no current. As a result they don't burn or need any attention.





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Rick


Rick
Now the eng does idle better with more adv but thats what the vac adv is for. U need to choose a vac can that can bring in the vac adv u want at idle rpm - or install an adjustible vac can. I used a Mighty-Vac break-bleeding hand pump connected to the vac can to measure where the vac starts and drops out. Ex, mine is full vac adv at 15"Hg and out by 5.5psi (WOT).
Sorry 62C1 as i may stepped on your thead a little here but hope this will help steer Rick to the right direction on initial adv.
cardo0
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