Hi, I'm new around here, well I have been lurking for about a year. Anyways I have question..... Would I show any gains from one of AFR's Hydra-Rev kits? Here is the link..... http://www.airflowresearch.com/hydrarev.html
The cam they are using has .215 of duration on both intake and exhaust. I am using the LPE "219" cam. Here is the rest of my combo......

355
10.8:1 real compresion (verified)
Heavily ported Edelbrock RPM heads (they used to belong to Bowtye8)
Titanium retainers
LPE "219" cam
LPE 58mm throttle body
SuperRam base, runners, plenum
CompCams 1.6 ratio Pro Mags
LT1 injectors
SLP 1 3/4 headers
Vigi 2600rpm converter
3.27 gears

Sorry to list EVERYRTHING but I just want to make sure all my info is on the table. The car is a '89 GTA (about 3500lbs). I know it's not a vette but soommeday........ Ahem, would I show any gains with the Hydra-Rev kit or could my money be spent more effectively? Thanks guys. :cool:

 

I would say so. I was thinking of the same thing on my IROC, but know that I'm getting a 2003 Z06 I won't be spending any more money on the Camaro. I have a 406ci, T56 transmission, Airflow research heads, amoung other things that I haven't put on the car yet. I was going to put the Hydra Rev Kit on the 406. With the extra breathing of the Super-Ram on the top you should find usable power for the cost. I also have a TPIS Mini Ram I was going to switch to. Look at my web page to see why? Good Luck whatever you decide. :cheers:

 

I'm going to be putting together a package VERY close to what you are. I posed the same question here, and got mostly nays than yays. I actually was thinking today about this subject again. I think I might go ahead and install one of these kits anyways. It isn't like they are terribly expensive, and it would offer me at least a little peace of mind.

 

Hello !! Go for it! It is grea t solution to get allmost all best features of solid roller to long lasting "easytouse" hydraulic roller. Built your valvetrain wisely and you will have best possible setup for street. Use titanium ratainers for lighter weight and shaft mounted roller rockers,for lighter weight and lighter resistance! Most important is not to use overkill springs ,consult your cam grinder with this,they can recomend as soft springs as possible to use with above,so you will get higher powerband with out killing lifters.

Hydraulic rollers are as good as solids on street when desinged carefully!

joni

 

Thanks for the replys gentlemen. Is the install a simple bolt in or is any machining involved? will I need to change my springs?

 

I wouldn't say simple. i don't know about you, but I hate to take the Super-Ram off and on. :yesnod: However; you have obviuosly done that part before. Once into the engine it should not require any machining and be easy and straight forward. I'd leave the spring that match your camshaft as they are. The new set-up will not affect the amount of spring pressure that is pushing on your lifters. You won't need to worry about collapsing them. This is a great set-up I believe. They will take some load off the stock springs and cause valve float to happen later. Probably 500-700 more revs. BEG Good Luck! :cheers:


[Modified by 03QSZ06, 6:38 PM 9/3/2001]


[Modified by 03QSZ06, 6:39 PM 9/3/2001]

 

Believe me, I wouldn't even be thinking about this if the SR was not allready off the engine. It gets easier everytime but I still hate doing it.

 

Scorp, what kind of 1/4 mile times are you expecting with your mods? I am hoping for high 12's but I am expecting mid 13's.

 

I've had the AFR OEM Hydra-rev kit in my L-98 based 355 setup for 2.5 years now, and it works GREAT!!!. I will be using it on my new 6" rod 383 with new CC "R" series lifters, ported EDELBROCK VIC Jr heads, and with port matched VIC Jr. style EFI intake. I'll be reving it to 6800-7000 RPM's with the lightweight titatium valvetrain parts hopefully. HIGHLY RECOMMEND it for you Scorp, since you have a MANUAL and all, and you will be drag racing :chevy

 

This is what is going into my car......

D-Port L98 Heads w/2.02" Manley Pro-Flo Int. Valves & 1.6" Exh. valves, ported, polished, 3 angle valve job.
SuperRam
Accell Superram Intake Manifold
Lingenfelter 74219 Camshaft
1.6 Roller Rockers on both Int/Exh (.560 total lift when added to the cam)
1 3/4" headers
58mm TB
Custom Chip


...I know I'm forgetting something, but we're hoping for around 400hp, 450 ft/lbs, and very very deep into the 12s, possibly high 11s with sticky tires and a better driver than me. :D

 

Do you think mid to high 12's are realalistic with my combo and some decent traction? All I ever see is thirdgen's with tons of parts thrown at them that run 14's. I think you Vette guys have been blessed by the automotive gods.

 

:D , we're also a lot lighter than they are.

 

keep in mind that those rev kits require tall valve covers

 

I don't believe that they do. The rev kit installs between the lifter bore and the the underside of the head. Now my roller rockers on the other hand required tall valve covers.

 

sorry that looked like a valve stud gurdle in that high quality ( :U ) picture.

 

7x, since you are using the super ram, it's not likely that you will be reving the engine much beyond 6K (there's nothing up there anyway). with a good set of springs and a well layed out valve train, you shouldn't have valve float with or without the rev kit. I race mine quite often and after 4 years, i had no signs of float when i recently refreshed my heads. That said, the rev kit is good insurance for only around $100. The installation is easier if you do it while installing the heads, but not impossible if the heads are already on.

Conclusion: i don't think it's necessary, but it's not that expensive and if your motor is still apart, it's not that difficult to install. So why not!!!

 

I still can't decide. It's $229 for the kit. AFR is pretty vague about this thing. That cam in the first example is pretty mild. It's even smaller than my "219" cam. The SuperRam runs out of breath at around 5800rpm right? I just don't want to leave any power on the table.

 

Ralph,
My set-up is a solid roller and spring pressure is in excess of 700# open, nearly 400# closed. The intake is still off. Reconsidering whether it makes sense. At $100, seems quite cheap, why not? Where was this purchased from?

As for the comment of the tall valvecovers, what rockers require the taller valvecovers? I think I have pretty much exhausted this subject with the topic here called valvecover spacers for AFR heads. Unless you are using Jesel or T&D shafts, I think you can get most anything under the factory cover with some additional work (excludes girdles). Let me know, I always like a challenge.

Thanks,

Aaron

 

No...Especially not on well ported heads.

Two things will make it run out of power at rpm:

1.) Stock lifter collapsing under load at high rpm...aftermarkets are better but the rev kit will prevent it from the start.

2.) The 219 cam can run out of power at 5800-6000 RPM, because it's not really a racing cam, it's an emmissions cam that is slightly more aggressive than the stock.

What I would do (well, I actually did for the most part already ) is call Schneider cams ( 619 297-0227 ), tell them your combo and have them design you a cam. You will be surprised the overall cost for them to custom make a cam will be less than the LPE cam. It all depends on wether you care about emmissions.




[Modified by BBA, 12:33 AM 9/8/2001]

 

My car pulls to right at 6500 without the rev kit. This is in 3rd gear. Racing quarter mile I'd of went past the highest hp mark to drop to the torque range for the next gear. I shift around 5600 1st to 2nd and 5800 2nd to 3rd to run quicker 1/4 mile runs. I believe the shift points could be moved up only slightly with the rev kit if any. That would come with experimenting with different shift points at the track. (The next gear with max torque should out accelerate the previous gear with more HP) Remember hp is "just torque at a higher RPM".
Where I think the rev kit will help is in longevity, and most of all "Top Speed" of your car. Once your in the top gear and can't shift anymore you'll be able to sqeeze more top end MPH out of the car. That all depends on what you want to do with the car. I don't condone driving top speed on the streets, so I don't know where you'd do that. ;) If I had a McClaren F1 I wouldn't take it to 230 mph, but it's cool to know you could. If you are just doing some bracket racing you don't really need it. You must decide. If you have a doubt at all that you might regret not getting it, get it. No one I know likes taking them Super-Rams off and on. :jester
Oops. I forgot to mention that my motor has a little ZZ3 cam in it right now. I believe it's 208@0.05 int. and 221@0.05 exh. durations and 0.484 int. lift and .503 exh. lift. with the Aluminum L98 heads from the next year up Corvette engine for a comparison. My best run was 12.65 @ 109+ on M&H's.
I sold my slicks, but comparing the 60' time difference it should go 12.20's on slicks. Also, I have an Accel DFI piggy back computer that I'm learning so it probably isn't dialed in perfect yet. Like I said up a few posts if the 406 and AFR heads I have sitting here go in the car I'd buy the rev kit for it.IMHO
However, I won't be able to help you with the results because I'll probably sell the IROC and all my parts because I won't be able to keep the Z06 stock. Corvette parts are generally more expensive. Especially superchargers.
Good Luck! :cheers: :D




[Modified by 03QSZ06, 1:14 PM 9/8/2001]