When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just got a 350 virgin block and was trying to decide what to do with it. I was thanking about making a 383 stroker. I need help with what comdinations to go with. I want about 450 hp out of it.And I am going to go with the roller cam sit up I do know that. Any suggestion?
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Buy a book!
Originally Posted by 63_GrandSport
I just got a 350 virgin block and was trying to decide what to do with it. I was thanking about making a 383 stroker. I need help with what comdinations to go with. I want about 450 hp out of it.And I am going to go with the roller cam sit up I do know that. Any suggestion?
Try D. Vizard, or Lingenfeilter, or Smokey Y. and the Chevy Power Manual too.
But then you say you are going with the better crank?
If you think it was a good crank why are you going with a "better" one?
P.S. I don't want to kick you while your down. Sorry about your crank.
Is a crank better if it costs more? for that matter are name brands better? Have any of these cranks been ridgedly scientifically tested as being superior to brand X?
My new crank is a Callies ultra light weight and yes they have been used in some 1200 hp boosted small blocks. How long they last is probably very much up to the engine builder. One of the guys on the forum uses a "Bryant" crank. I also heard of racing teams using billet cranks that are more like $4000 each. I have an expensive crank in my Vette right now. I only got it for the price of a lessor model because the owner said that it had sat on his shelf for a couple of years and he wanted to just get rid of it. I only bought it because at the time I was considering installing a 375hp N20 system to go on top of my mid 500 hp motor.
that broken crank was just unlucky. I also had a roller wheel bearing go out once. That was unlucky also. Maybe I get those one in a million defective pieces of metal
A guy at work told me that it cost about $3000 to machine the block to make a 383. I dont know anything about a 396.I am going to get a good crank but I dont know what one yet.I can tell you it wont be no $4000.
$3000 for machine work is a bit high like 4-5 times the cost. All you really want done to a 4 bolt 350 block is:
Blue print bore specs. Which includes the align boring of the crank mains and cam. The cylinders are bored with TQ plates true to the crank centerline. The decks true.
I can clearance a block at home in less than two hours for the 396 or 383 stroker crank. So I would not trust a shop that quotes any more hours.
www.flatlanderracing.com Sells nice rotating kits. I've generally bought the 3.875 6 inch rod kit for @ $3300. I did do a lower priced forged 383 rotating kit for about $2400 a few years ago
I got my 396 kit from Super Engine Builders in IL. Frank got me the B12113-030 kit for $1650. This is the all forged kit with a 3.875 crank, H-beam 6" stroker cut rods w/ARP2000 12 point screws, floating pins, SRP forged flattop pistons, Clevite 77 bearings. All internally balanced by Eagle. Be aware the Eagle dealers like CNC Motorsports do not buy Eagle kits, they assemble Eagle kits & balance it themselves. My machinist is checking the balance job & I can report on it later. Franks number is 847-487-5923, he did not stock this kit, he had to get it from Eagle & then ship it to me in TX, it still only took 1 week total.
As far as machine work goes, I'm spending about $600, this will get my block bored .030 w/plates, the mains alignment checked & align bored if needed, block square decked/final decked to .010, cam bearings installed, & the lower end assembled to my specs. My block was clearanced by GM, but the machine shop will also verify the clearances. This is a racing machine shop, not some guy in his back yard. The guy telling you that it costs $3k is either afraid you'll out run him or thinks all engines are machined to NASCAR tolerances.
I told the guy that told me that it cost $3000 that he was crazy.A good freind told me he buit his 383 for just over $3000.And that was all new stuff.The only thing that was not new was the heads.And it is pushing 475hp.
There you go. However, his rotating assembly is probably cast, which is not necessarily bad. Eagle forged is good to 1500HP. Cast is good to 500. Cast is about 1/2 price of forged, you have to decide, but if you'd ever consider nitros or a blower then you need forged.
I am working on the 383 now. It will cost around $4000 to build but it will make around 550 hp. I still have not got any heads so if any one can help me out there it would be nice. I have got a few ideas on the heads but want another opinion. I am going to go with the roller cam and everything.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
U need more help than money.
It sounds more like u have never even rebuilt a motor before and u receive all your infomation by hearsay. Since u don't even provide a profile let alone drive train and parts combination we'll never know if your 550hp build ever runs or even could. I can tell my suggestion for a good professional reference is doing no good. This thread is such a waste of time i don't know why i even bothered to reply this time. Yes i need to stop my thread subscription now!
If it is a wast of your time then do not read it, cardo0. But I build motors for a living just not gas. It is not hearsay it is from a good freind of mine that builds a lot of race motors around hear.