I am very close to finishing my 383. Ive posted this in under other subject forums, but figured Id try here. I primed the motor by cranking without the spark plugs in the head until oil pressure built up. It sent oil out the spark plug holes, no biggy. I went to crank the motor over and am pretty sure I have the firing order correct. The motor turned but there was a strange whining sound, and after cranking for a little while the motor would back fire. I think the motor could be flooded.... also the distrubutor might be installed backwards the Ecm connection on the distributor is pointed directly towards the rear of the car. Lastly, and most important, my ESC wire is broken, and not connected. I didnt think the knock sensor would have anything to do with it, but now I know that it is electronic spark control. Will this not being connected cause the problem Im having? I sure hope so.... If so could I connect the electric connection using heat shrink tubing? Ideas here??
Im desperate and very hopeful Ill be trying to get it to start tomorrow its been 4 months now.... Please offer help

 

i assume you have ascertained that you are not getting spark and that you have compression and fuel. I can tell you tell with my 85, i can disconnect the ESC and it will still run (w/code). Good luck

 

Here's how to install the distributor:

Rotate the crank by turning it with a ratchet. Remove the plug of cyl 1. While rotating put your thumb into the plug hole. Note when pressure starts building (air being forced past your thumb). Now slowly rotate the crank until the balancer mark lines up with the 10 dgr BTDC mark on the timing tab.

Next install the distributor so it is rotated the way you want it (the 3 wires from base to coil should exit the housing pointing straight forward). Use a magic marker and mark the position of the cyl #1 terminal on the base (straight below the terminal in the cap).

Now remove the cap and partially pull the distributor out until you can rotate the rotor (the dist gear disengages the cam). You will have to rotate the rotor past the mark you made on the housing as it will rotate counter clock wise as it engages the cam gear. Usually you will find that the distributor won't go all the way down. If so, remove the distributor and use a long screwdriver to rotate the oil pump shaft so that the distributor will seat all the way.

You should now have the distributor in the engine with the rotor pointing at the mark you made for cyl 1.

Next remove the rotor and look at the reluctor wheel underneath. Notice how the mainshaft has triangular pointed teeth facing outwards, and the corresponding teeth pointing inwards fixed to the housing.

Rotate the housing until the teeth line up. Make sure the rotor still points to the mark you made.

Tighten the holddown clamp, reinstall rotor, cap, wires etc. Engine should now start. If not, it's time to look into fuel.