Engine Dipstick Install...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 959
Likes: 1
From: Lemoore CA
Engine Dipstick Install...
Anyone done this with longtubes in the way... Sorta seems like a PITA how should I do it, I may also need to replace the thing where can I get one that fits the one I bought at AutoZone is too big for an earlier small block I guess...
Paul
Paul
Pro
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 683
Likes: 0
From: Calgary
Re: Engine Dipstick Install... (Nomar116)
I also have had great difficulty installing and removing dip stick tubes. I seem to wreck them when I pull them out and have a hard time installing new ones. Anybody have any tips for this process?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 5,877
Likes: 1
From: Park Ridge IL
Re: Engine Dipstick Install... (Nomar116)
Aftermarket companies like Lokar and Billet Specialties offer dipstick which don't use a tube, but rather plug right into the hole in the block. The dipstick has a billet aluminum handle and an o-ring seal. This method will move it out of the way of the headers and it looks alot cleaner (and trick too!).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 5,877
Likes: 1
From: Park Ridge IL
Re: Engine Dipstick Install... (Nomar116)
They will fit any smallblock prior to LS1/LS6. AS for being too low, that's a personal prefernce. Lokar does offer dipsticks that feature a flexible stainless steel braided 'tube' with a flexible plastic dipstick with a billet handle. Other than that, I don't know of any other options...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 959
Likes: 1
From: Lemoore CA
Re: Engine Dipstick Install... (Monty)
Could you get me a link to one of these... Something that would be rather easy to reach as I dont want to reach in past my headers to grab for my engine dip stick everytime although No big deal Dont want to pay an arm and a leg either tho...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 1
From: NewCastle IN. USA
Re: Engine Dipstick Install... (Nomar116)
IF your talking about the aftermarket chrome dipsticks. they are to big because of the chrome plating. you have to remove all the plating (sanding will work but its slow) on the portion that goes into the block. put a champfer on the leading edge,
put a small bolt into the top of the dipstick tube to hammer on (keeps it from messing up the end) and tap that puppy home.
good luck,
RJ
put a small bolt into the top of the dipstick tube to hammer on (keeps it from messing up the end) and tap that puppy home.
good luck,
RJ
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 959
Likes: 1
From: Lemoore CA
Re: Engine Dipstick Install... (ol,RJ)
Im simply trying to install the factory dipstick now. There is a ridge on the stick is that suppose to line up with the block? Its nearly two inches up the pipe, If so I still have an inch and a half or more before Im there I do have it in now but it seems awfully loose Should I seal this with something or worry about it? I was leaking oil when I ran without it :crazy:
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 1
From: NewCastle IN. USA
Re: Engine Dipstick Install... (Nomar116)
if its loose you'll need to use some sealer on it, or it will leak.
not sure what would be the best thing to use. maybe formagasket#2 ???
I know that RTV dosn't work very well from what I have seen.
you say that it still has 1 1/2" or more to go to reach the swedged part of the tube? thats odd. is it bottoming out? on mine it was only about 1.250" total(but its a 1975 block).
I'm pretty sure that it needs to be down all the way to that ridge/swedge in order for your dipstick to read correctly. the blocks hole should be champfered for it to bottom into.
you could cut some of the extra length off if its bottoming too soon.
also if its still loose after you get it all the way in, I'd recommend a brace to keep it from moving (if it dosn't have one already) if its able to move much you'll never keep it sealed to the block.
sure hope this helps. RJ
not sure what would be the best thing to use. maybe formagasket#2 ???
I know that RTV dosn't work very well from what I have seen.
you say that it still has 1 1/2" or more to go to reach the swedged part of the tube? thats odd. is it bottoming out? on mine it was only about 1.250" total(but its a 1975 block).
I'm pretty sure that it needs to be down all the way to that ridge/swedge in order for your dipstick to read correctly. the blocks hole should be champfered for it to bottom into.
you could cut some of the extra length off if its bottoming too soon.
also if its still loose after you get it all the way in, I'd recommend a brace to keep it from moving (if it dosn't have one already) if its able to move much you'll never keep it sealed to the block.
sure hope this helps. RJ
