Engine Mods Outrageous Builds, High-Horsepower Modifications, strokers, and big cams for the Corvette

Rod recommendations?

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Old Feb 23, 2002 | 01:12 PM
  #21  
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Default Re: Rod and Cam recommendations? (mountainmotor)

mountain, regarding the old WERA series, I remember being at Mid-Ohio when Freddie Spencer was about 16, (maybe really only 15!) and ran in three different classes. He stunned everybody, especially the far more experienced riders, with his "seat dancing". The real reason he freaked them out was that he WON in all three of the classes he entered!

Anyway, I don't have the energy or interest anymore to adjust valves, especially on a C4 TPI. Just getting the dang valve covers off is a major PITA. I'm sticking with a hyd roller, for better or worse. Thanks for the name at Comp. BTW, you must have been away from this chip stuff for a while, unfortunately Jim passed away a good year or two ago.

Let us know what you bought at the Kruse auction. Heck, if you let us know ahead of time, we could follow your bidding on line!
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Old Feb 24, 2002 | 09:06 AM
  #22  
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Default Re: Rod and Cam recommendations? (h rocks)

Sorry to hear about Jim.Actually I am taking a crash course on TPI due to my Son's newest car I am building a motor for.I have in checking recieved a web address for the company.Although i have not talked to them,is it possible his wife retained operation of the business?

Had time to think about cam.Check out Comp XR276HR-12 and tell me what you think.Looks to be a little softer ramp wise for hi rpm reliability than some others out there.Also,Crower"the website sucks"Has (very) light weight retainers and roller lifters to aid in controlling the valve train at hi rpm.I think it is worth checking out.Have some nice HYD Roller cams also.

Freddie was/is not very large in stature. Those huge Hondas he rode in 79/80 required the use of wider handle bars for leverage.He would bend those buddies during race.
I always wanted to go see a race at the Isle of Mann sp?
Have taken a few laps on a Yamaha GP 500 Racer.Whoooaa! What a hand full!
Would almost make a deal with the Devil to drive a Formula car.Almost!

Sorry to junk up your thread.
Good luck with cam,ect
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 12:41 AM
  #23  
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Default Re: Rod and Cam recommendations? (mountainmotor)

I have an 89, 6-sp, 3.33 rear which I plan to Auto-X and solo Road Race with an S/R383 also.:cheers:

With a 6-sp & 3.73:1 gears, I'd doubt you'll see less than 3000rpm on a track except the starting line. So any compatible S/R Cam will pull like a mule on a short/curvy track! I’ve heard of larger Cams than the 219 making higher peak #’s with the S/R, but the power curves don’t result in a faster vehicle (at least in the 1/8 & ¼ mile).

An S/R’ed 383 with the 219 Cam makes a fat Tq. curve between 2000-5500rpms, and still pulls to 5800, plus you can always install it delayed 2-4 degrees! 120-130Lbs on the seat V-springs, Ti Retainers, good Hyd.-Roller Lifters (I used the 2nd gen. OE units, their strong but rather heavy), and maybe a Hydra-Rev for poopies & giggles. With those parts you should be able to Rev at 5800rpms all day long and not fill your pan full of shavings or parts-is-parts! At 6000rpms Hyd.- Roller Lifters are no longer your friends, anything sustained much past 6k and the valves are bouncing off the seats and floating, which quickly leads to pan full of shavings or parts-is-parts- joy!:nonod:

And yes the 219/219 Cam might be archaic technology now, but it is a proven profile for the S/R, which is just as old BTW! The .222/.230 More Performance cam is as large as I would go. I’d stay away from that 233/240 @ .050” grind unless someone can show you documented real world gains with a S/R 383!!!

Quote:
"competition package” flow chart looked like ~ 280/200 @.550", sounds like your set on those 195's, huh? The S/R even with some grinding only flows 240CFM per runner! Since you don't want to fuss with periodical lash settings on a solid Cam, I'm surprised you’re willing to gamble with intake sealing issues? Nothing like a good-old persistent vacuum leak from the Intake Manifold to boost performance!:rolleyes:

My TPiS/AFR 190’s have a smaller ex. Port, and far rougher CNC milling on the intake than the standard AFR 190’s, and per the SuperFlow 400, they do:
.2” Lift In/Ex .5” Lift In/Ex
136/100CFM 249/187CFM

It's a good match for the S/R, and using the theoretical equation:
Hp= .2575 x CFM @ 28’ of H20 x # of cyl.
{.2575 x 249CFM x 8cyl = 512.94Hp} more than any N/A, S/R’ed 383 will ever produce!

Just my 2-cents!
:crazy: NanoBrain:crazy:
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Old Mar 1, 2002 | 11:05 PM
  #24  
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Default Re: Rod and Cam recommendations? (NanoBrain)

Thanks for your illucidation on the various cams that have been suggested. Sounds like the MORE cam might be the way to go. Do you think that the ramps are too steep for an endurance cam? Meaning that I need a cam that I can run on the track for three hours a weekend for years without major wear and tear?
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Old Mar 2, 2002 | 07:45 AM
  #25  
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Default Re: Rod and Cam recommendations? (h rocks)

Quote:
"Meaning that I need a cam that I can run on the track for three hours a weekend for years without major wear and tear?"

Yes Sir .Thats why I suggested a solid lifter flat tappet cam.I suspect a few gears will be missed during that time span.

But since you do not want to adjust the lifters and I understand that why don't you just run a custom flat tappet hydraulic from the Comp or Ultradyne master lobe list?Can make good power to 5700rpm with as little as 44 degrees of running overlap.Your computer tuner will like you! Can go up from there if needed and these cams with the good lifters will tolerate overrev much better.

Or the Comp Hyd roller I mentioned above and Crower lightweight parts.Or call Crower and ask.They have a very good line of hydraulic roller cams.Comp is not the only guys making good cams these days.
Good luck!


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Old Mar 2, 2002 | 11:13 PM
  #26  
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Default Re: Rod and Cam recommendations? (mountainmotor)

I checked out the cam number on the Comp website, and could not find the listing for that particular #. If you have the specs on it, I would be very interested.
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Old Mar 4, 2002 | 10:55 PM
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Default Re: Rod and Cam recommendations? (h rocks)

Just a mental note, Accel/LPE camshafts are mfg.'ed by Comp Cam! :yesnod:
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Old Mar 5, 2002 | 10:30 AM
  #28  
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Default Re: Rod and Cam recommendations? (h rocks)

H rocks,
It is because it is a custom grind.Can be found in catalog with 110 LCA The -12 at the end denotes 112 LCA

276 -224@.050 .502 lift.intake
282 -230@.050 .510 lift exhaust

1.5 rocker ratio
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Old Mar 5, 2002 | 03:27 PM
  #29  
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Default Re: Rod and Cam recommendations? (h rocks)

There is no reason to build a 383 3.750 stroker motor.

It cost the same to build a 396 3.875 stroker motor.

Thermal coated pistons are cheap extra power. If your going to do it - you might as well do it right! :yesnod:
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Old Mar 8, 2002 | 12:30 AM
  #30  
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Default Re: Rod and Cam recommendations? (gkull)

Wow hrocks! You're sooo demanding - No wear and tear?? Anytime you see hydraulic intensities, (difference between timing at opening and timing at .050"), greater than 60 degrees the longevity of the valve train will diminish. First victim is typically the valve springs. Best way to avoid heart break (er, wallet break?) , is to keep an eye on spring tension at installed height. Which is why you see Pro-Stockers checking spring tension between runs with an on-head tester.

Those Howard rods are written up in this month's Circle Track, very nice. Hope everything is coming together well. Best Wishes!
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Old Mar 8, 2002 | 12:21 PM
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Default Re: Rod and Cam recommendations? (90NormZ51)

Well.... if your springs are up to the task in the first place, you won't have to check after every track day or drag run. You should consider a yearly replacement just for piece of mind. Pro-stock is far different from Street/track :)

See why I went with a spring that is 220 on the seat? I went mechanical roller, but the point is it can be good to have a little more spring tension. Like those K-motion springs I told you about... 130-135 on the seat is pretty good. Not to heavy and definitely not too light for a hydraulic roller.
By the way, Brodix told me my new springs were 240 on the seat. It's always good to check something. "New" doesn't carry the implicit promise of "correct" :)

Good luck again!

Cory
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Old Mar 9, 2002 | 12:17 PM
  #32  
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Default Re: Rod and Cam recommendations? (CHarris85Vette)

Cory, Is right, I was using an extreme example with Pro Stockers that is inappropriate to your specific application. Their cam dynamics and engine speeds cause valve springs to fail in as few as 6 runs. I suggested it because you can see the on head spring testers being used by watching drag racing coverage.

You could check it every few months until you get a feel for when and how much the springs degrade, or replace periodically as Cory suggested. Just don't expect them to last for 75,000 miles.
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Old Mar 10, 2002 | 12:59 AM
  #33  
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Default Re: Rod and Cam recommendations? (90NormZ51)

Update on the pieces parts...Big disappointment in the machining quality of the Cola crank. It may start out at the same place as some Callies cranks.(Louisville Forge) But it's no Callies! I'm not an expert by any stretch, but when I can see the radii variation, and FEEL it, you know it's gotta be poor. You could see more than witness marks on the mains and the rod journals. It was bad. My builder had a Callies Dragonslayer for another guy that he had just cleaned up right next to the Cola. From four feet away, you could see the difference, not to mention feel it! :mad

Rods...Howard's was jerking us around. None available. They were out of SBC 6" rods, and it was going to take "X" more weeks, if everyting went as planned. :boxing

Good news on the AFR 195 heads. :blueangel: After initial disappointment with the appearance of unfinished guide bosses on the intakes, the flowbench showed mongo numbers. For eg. @ .400" lift they were flowing ~ 250 cfm. @ .550" something like 280+ He also checked on the air turbulance and velocity. Don't know what the actual values were, but he told me that they were out flowing Dart 215cc heads, and especially in that low lift area. That should build even more torque at lower RPM. He's going to touch up the trailing edge of the guide bosses, ball mill an oil return channel and dress the dck side before he completes his stress relieving process. He's already had them baking at 185* f for "X" hours, and in the freezer for a couple of days.

So now it looks like we are going to just use Scat forged H beam rods and their forged crank. Any other ideas on available cranks?


[Modified by h rocks, 12:11 AM 3/10/2002]
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