Ok Fellas here is what I got and what I want to do. I want a 383 stroker with no more than 10.5 compression. I have a set of stock LT1 heads and intake that are getting port and polished, valve job and adding 2.02 Int and 1.6 Ext valves. Manifold is getting gasket matched. I have the LT4 Hotcam, 1.6RR and Valve Springs already along with 52mm Throttle Body and MSD Digital 6 ignition. What I need now is the bottom end. I want good forged items, crank, connecting rods and pistons, and piston rings. I am going with clevite bearings, a Mezier electric waterpump but I was wondering about the distributor if I should go with the same thats on my 93 or get the newer version of the opti. I also need the timing stuff so I need to know which Opti to go with before I can get the timing chain and cover. I am also going to need the flywheel and harmonic balancer. So basically it boils down to what stuff I should go with??? Also I dont want to use anything off of my original engine the only thing that I am going to swap is the 52mm TB everything else is going to stay on the original. That way I have two complete engines to swap if I have too. TIA all knowing ENIGINE GODS :jester Zach

Oh yeah almost forgot I need to know the thickness of the head gaskets and I need long tube headers as well. I know this is long but I need all the help I can get because I am very :confused:

Almost forgot one thing what length connecting rods should I use 5.7 or 6.0???



[Modified by 93Zeus, 11:26 PM 4/15/2002]

 

why only 10.5? I am in the process of building a 383ci supercharge, I have to stay 9.1cr. If I am doing NA stroker I would go up to 12.3cr with the right cam to match the c/r. Most of you know Hoover 93LT1 (Phil) His 401ci LT1 stroker run 12.6c/r run pump gas and driving daily to go to work and ran 10.6 @ 127mph in 1/4 mile, Just my .02 cent


Bruce
93LT1 Conv w/ZF6
top end mods
jetted 150hp NX
New mods blown "D1-SC 383ci/N2O is in the works

 

The reason I want to keep the c/r where it is is if I decide to run nitrous. Plus still want to be able to run pump gas.

 

I am not an engine god by any means, but won't your setup be too mild? If your intnetion is to build a very mild 383 then cool. But AFAIK stock LT1 castings as well as the relatively mild Hot Cam will not allow your 383 to reach it's full potential IMHO. I have several LT1 friends with stock bottom-ends and non-stroked 350's that run ported LT4 heads/intake with a cam like the CC306. If it was me I would be a little more aggressive, but if that's not your cup of tea, than power to you :D.

BTW - I was under the impression that N2O like more rather than less compression???

Whatever you decide, good luck!

:cheers:

 

I wanna keep it mild but not too mild. I drive the car on a regular basis everywhere actually just not to work. The reason I am going with the LT1 Intake and Heads is that I already have them. I was going to do the heads intake and cam in my original motor but just recently decided to do the 383.
I dont plan on using N2O which I am not expert I just assumed that it would like lower like a supercharger does. The way I drive and maintainablitiy are the main factors for a mild motor or else I would kill myself!! :jester

 

Actually N2O like high compression, unlike forced induction.


Bruce


[Modified by Bruce, 2:32 PM 4/14/2002]

 

oh well


Bruce

 

get a 95 opti and timing chain, i might go a little more aggressive on the cam but the hotcam will do fine

 

On my 97 Z28 I had ported LT1 heads, matched LT1 intake, CC305, 1.6RR, FLP long tubes, ST3000 PI cutout and a 100 HP shot of Crack - was a high 11 second car on street tires. I got decent fuel economy on the street and got great performance when needed via the little red switch ;). So driveability can be maintained!

BTW - you need to understand N2O thoroughly prior to use or you WILL kill yourslef!!! :D

 

Do I need anything else to go with the 95 opti?? I know opti, timing chain, timing cover but is there anything else I need to finish the set up??

 

Because I would kill myself is why I dont plan on using it!! But if I get stomped by something that I dont agree with then I guess its time to go back to school do a little reading and then do some bolting! :jester I will just have to remember to always were clean underwear! :lol:

 

Well I have decided to go with a Lunati kit. It includes: Internally balanced crank, pistons and connecting rods all forged. Main, rod and cam bearings, piston rings, double roller timing chain with steel gears, harmonic balancer, one piece crank seal, HV oil pump with pickup tube and driveshaft. All for $3003 shipped to my front door. Thanks for the posts from everyone. Z

 

You need sevral things to convert to the '95 opti. From memory, you will need:
A new wiring connector (from the harness to the opti)
A thread in "nipple" to get the vacuum from for the opti. This goes to the intake. I don't remember if it was just under the TB or in the middle of the driver's side of the intake. You should already have a plug in it (at least my '94 did).
A new timing cover
A vacuum hose to go from the intake to the opti.
A '95+ cam. It has a longer (or is it shorter, I can't remember) dowel pin for the '95+ opti

That's all I can remember as it's been about 4 years since I've done it.

For the bottem end, I'd just go with the Scat 9000 crank and Scat rods and KB hyper pistons. I'd go with 6" rods if you are buying new, although the stock GM PM rods would be fine as well. That should easily be strong enough for what you have in plans.