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I bought mine off of eBay, I got a "brand new" GM SRT for $1000 which ain't bad for a 4L80E considering some salvage yards and rebuilders charge that for a core charge.
I see them there all the time. Most if the performance tranny companies offer the 4L80E now, so if you are going to build it up anyway, it might be worth getting it all ready to go.
I don't know what you guys are planning on using as a transmission controller (I really like the FAST/TCI T-Com I'm using), but Transgo has a valvebody kit that eliminates the need for a computer, it makes the transmission fully manual. I believe the kit is only around $200. Just FYI.
For a TCU, I was actually planning to go with the same TCI unit you mensioned. It seems to be about the most resonably priced one out there.
Monty, what does the software to program that look like?
Do they give much of a variety for starting point programs?
Do you set it to poopie based on MPH or engine RPM, input shaft speed or output or combination?
Even if you have a setup that moves through the RPM's very quickly, do the shifts take place pretty close to the programmed point, or is there much mechanical lag? Like in my current mechanical 4L60 the shift point will vary by 400 RPM depending on trans temp.
The T-COM is not only reasonably priced, but of OEM quality and reliability. It's based off of similar architecture as the FAST fuel injection systems, which has been around for quite awhile under various names.
The software is easy to use and straighforward. It comes with a program for a 4L60E and a 4L80E. Chose which tranny you're using, as well as a couple other setup parameters and you're ready to go. The base program will work well right away - if you want to raise the shift points, torque converter engagement, shift firmness, etc you can. Shift rpm and firmness is based on TPS position and opening rate, rpm, etc as well as user defined selections. I have not noticed any variation is shift point or firmness based on tranny fluid temperature. I haven't been looking for it though. You can do datalogging, so it's something you could easily see if your wanted to though.
You didn't mention what converter you are going to use, but I'm using a Precision Industries 8.5", 3200 rpm, 3-disc lockup Vigilante, it seems to be working very well for me. Not all of the high-performance converter companies are making 4L80E converters yet, so they are a good choice if you haven't decided yet.
Transgo also makes some Reprogramming and shift kits for the 4L80E that work well with it, and eliminate some potential problems. I'm using their 4L80E HD2 kit, which I installed yself, along with their High-temp, Low shrink o-ring kit. They are pretty easy to install, but are a little more involved than a typical shift kit, but according to Transgo will allow it to handle alot more and be reliable. It's already pretty stout as is though.
Good luck. So what engine/mods are you planning that will necessitate a 4L80E. :yesnod:
I am sticking with a Vigilante, My 4L60 version has held up for years of abuse in a 10 second car, and they seem to not feel as loose during normal for the amount WOT stall. They are expensive, but I have been veryhappy with them.
I'm still curious whether the TCU shifts(at WOT) by output shaft speed or RPM? In the newer PCM's you program by MPH, which implies that it uses output shaft speed. The reason I am wondering is, that if it is going by output speed alone, it will make it's WOT shifts at a higher RPM with added power because of extra converter slippage. ie, program it to shift at 50MPH NA, then flip on a 400hp shot and that 50 MPH will give you 400 or 500 more RPM. That same 7200RPM 50 MPH shift turns into a 50MPH 7600 RPM shift. This happen in the old mechanical systems, now I was wondering if the TCU factors in RPM then it could avoid this and shift at the same RPM even if power kicks up.
What am I doing to necessitate a 4L80? Hoover is deffinitely going through some changes :D I'm finally making room for the Big Block, a 555cid. I'm still planning to use it as a regular driver, so the OD is a must. I'm shooting for well in the 9's @ 140+ on motor and high 8's with a nice sized shot NOX.
Big project, new motor, trans, rear and if that wasn't enough, I'm going to paint it also.
What am I doing to necessitate a 4L80? Hoover is deffinitely going through some changes :D I'm finally making room for the Big Block, a 555cid. I'm still planning to use it as a regular driver, so the OD is a must. I'm shooting for well in the 9's @ 140+ on motor and high 8's with a nice sized shot NOX.
Big project, new motor, trans, rear and if that wasn't enough, I'm going to paint it also.
:thumbs:
Talk about taking a bad, bad car and making it even Badder. Damn :cool: :cheers:
Can't wait to see that puppy run