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The problem with powder coating & judging is that if there are any seams or cutout holes and the judge knows where to look for them, you can see the thick buildup of the powdercoating which could result in a point deduction. As for finish color / gloss there are some powdercoats which will come pretty close to the original finish. I've got a mix of powdercoating & painted parts on my '70. Finish wise they're really close. I had the rear suspension components restored at Tony's Corvette & he sent out some of the parts for coating. But the frame I wire brushed and cleaned (body on) and then masked and painted with John Deere Blitz Black. Color & finish wise the T-arms which are powder coated, are really close to the JD paint. It's hard to get paint to stick to powder coating BTW. My half shafts are painted w/ cast blast over powder coat and it scratches off really easily. Lots of pics on my website http://www.julietpage.com ~Juliet
The powder coaters I'm familiar with offer 10 shades of black, from flat-flat to gloss-gloss. Most choose the 60-70% gloss for frames. Juliet is 100% correct about the build up in seams, holes, etc.
I think the durability and cost are the best "features" of powder coating.
Also, Juliet is correct about trying to paint over powder coating...it's an exercise is frustration....paint won't stick UNLESS you scuff/sand it, and then you've defeated the purpose :)
Also, the "gun" that shoots the powdered paint imparts the charge, as others have stated.....NOT the blasting process that I stated. Had a "senior moment" :) I LOVE powder coating. Chuck
I have a friend who does rustproofing. Took the frame to him. Had him shoot the rails with rustproofing "stuff" using the long wands, etc. Find a Ziebart or Rusty Jones franchise in your area. They'll be glad to do it. Chuck
Anybody ever consider "RHINO LINING" the frame? Who says you have to spray it in some pick-up bed? Seems to me that of it does as good a job as they say, why not spray it on the underside?
Anybody ever consider "RHINO LINING" the frame? Who says you have to spray it in some pick-up bed? Seems to me that of it does as good a job as they say, why not spray it on the underside?
Just a thought :yesnod:
You definitely would not want to use Rhino Lining on anything that you would want judged. It's very thick and feels like sandpaper. I have a friend that refinished a Jeep with Rhino all inside the floor, underneath, on the roll bars, and bumpers. He shouldn't have to worry about rust again!
Red,
I just got my frame back from the powder coater and I am very pleased with the result. I do have one spot on my frame that has a small dent in it. If it is visible after assembly, I plan on sanding down the powder coat, fill it, and spray it. If I can't see it, I'm not going to mess with it.
I am convinced that powder coating is the way to go if you want your car to stay crisp looking for years to come.
Well I went the urathan/epoxy route. I wanted to coat the inside and I did not trust doing it AFTER the powder coat... figured I would mess it up after I got it home... and that they would burn the coating out of the inside if I did it befor it went to PC. I had it sand blasted last friday and coated with DEVOE barrust. Its the stuff they paint BRIDGES and WATER tanks with. Because its expoxy, I can go over it with the PPG finishes after I finish the INSIDE and they will bond to it - DP90 (as a sealer) and a coat of DCC flattend to 60% black. I did end up using a product from Everlast called Metal to Metal - its a filler with powdered alum in it... Advertised as compatable with PC... Hard as a rock after its dry!! sands easy though. :rofl: