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That is not true. Last I heard Barry was still considering keeping some SS colors but he is not dropping base coats. He might drop some base colors but add some new ones.
What I heard on his board is that he is stepping out of the color paint. Just doing primers and cear.
I believe all of the last batch of black ss SPI is already sold. There is a guy on his board that is selling some black ss called Black Ice. I'm looking into this.
barry may bring back the black sometime in the future but right now he is working with his clears and primers. spi has just moved to a new location and will be doing their own shipping from now on as bakers is closing their doors. the black ice is most likely what i will use on my next one. if not i'll use ppg concept black.
barry may bring back the black sometime in the future but right now he is working with his clears and primers. spi has just moved to a new location and will be doing their own shipping from now on as bakers is closing their doors. the black ice is most likely what i will use on my next one. if not i'll use ppg concept black.
The good thing about the Black Ice is it comes with instructions. Since the tech school shop is used to spraying Dupont, I think this is a good thing. If I remember right, I don't think it needs to be reduced or activated. You can spray right out of the can.
Oh, and it seems you like just using the SPI epoxy as a primer for Corvettes? Nothing else?
Corvette SMC plastic stripped and sanded --> then SPI epoxy --> then ss black? No sealers? No high build or 2k primers? And no clear after the ss black?
that is just the way i prefer to surface a car. i use only 3 products on a car .
I know you like the SPI Epoxy. What are the other 2 products?
I guess if I only went with SPI Epoxy as the only primer with no high build, then I'll just have to hope the shop gets the Epoxy nice and smooth with no sand lines before they hit it with ss. That is if I do ss. I'm still looking into the Black Ice. It is $200 for a 1.5 sprayable gallon and comes with instructions. I also believe it doesn't need to be reduced, just add a hardner. I think that would give the shop less things to screw up.
last time someone used my system the painter was forced by his dumbass boss to pile 5 coats on at once. after the car was painted and buffed it cured and had many areas come back and show. you MUST give epoxy time to cure just like epoxy resin in repairs. unless they can do this let them use high build .
i use spi epoxy , ppg concept color , spi universal clear . the 57 vette i'm doing was cleared in dec , not buffed until march . it polished like lacquer and had 0 dieback or shrinkage . with spi there is no rebuff in 90 days
i dont know it all but i know a little and will gladly help anyone in need. my advise is priced right
last time someone used my system the painter was forced by his dumbass boss to pile 5 coats on at once. after the car was painted and buffed it cured and had many areas come back and show. you MUST give epoxy time to cure just like epoxy resin in repairs. unless they can do this let them use high build .
i use spi epoxy , ppg concept color , spi universal clear . the 57 vette i'm doing was cleared in dec , not buffed until march . it polished like lacquer and had 0 dieback or shrinkage . with spi there is no rebuff in 90 days
i dont know it all but i know a little and will gladly help anyone in need. my advise is priced right
Do you sand the ss concept before clearing?
If so, with what grit?
i reduce 5 -15% depending on weather and time of year. my final finish will have only 2 coats of peel or trash to deal with.
Ok. What do you do when you are spraying ss with no clear coat on top? Like with SPI ss black?
If I have the shop use High Build. Would I just skip using the Epoxy? Glass --> HB --> ss black
And which SPI High Build? I'm thinking it might be better at going with high build since the shop will be stripping it and sanding on the glass. That way if they don't get it nice and flat, then the high build will help cover up the sanding marks.
Ok. What do you do when you are spraying ss with no clear coat on top? Like with SPI ss black?
If I have the shop use High Build. Would I just skip using the Epoxy? Glass --> HB --> ss black
And which SPI High Build? I'm thinking it might be better at going with high build since the shop will be stripping it and sanding on the glass. That way if they don't get it nice and flat, then the high build will help cover up the sanding marks.
With ss if you can spray it really pretty flat then do nothing, you are done. If there is some orange peel, you can color sand and buff.
For the rest of the questions, I would contact Barry at SPI since you are going to use his products. He will not have you skip the epoxy. Also, Barry has done a lot of Corvette and fiberglass work so his advice will be good. The real key to a good priming and prep job is the blocking technique.
With ss if you can spray it really pretty flat then do nothing, you are done. If there is some orange peel, you can color sand and buff.
For the rest of the questions, I would contact Barry at SPI since you are going to use his products. He will not have you skip the epoxy. Also, Barry has done a lot of Corvette and fiberglass work so his advice will be good. The real key to a good priming and prep job is the blocking technique.
Thanks. I think I will give Barry a call to see what he thinks I should have the tech school do for the primer part of it.
the SPI epoxy is great stuff (get it in black for black top coat so rock chips do not show in the future) seal the car with epoxy and if you do not need it don't use the HB (but epoxy is a lot tuffer to sand in the place of HB). if you can find a SS black that you like the color of I would recomend using it (the CC in bc/cc paint tends to turn white when scuffed and detracts from the finnish later on)
the SPI epoxy is great stuff (get it in black for black top coat so rock chips do not show in the future) seal the car with epoxy and if you do not need it don't use the HB (but epoxy is a lot tuffer to sand in the place of HB). if you can find a SS black that you like the color of I would recomend using it (the CC in bc/cc paint tends to turn white when scuffed and detracts from the finnish later on)
More Than Zero
Thanks, I'm looking at going with Motostorm Black Ice SS. You get 1.5 sprayable gallon at $200. There is some talk of it on the SPI board. It doesn't get reduced, just add the hardener.
It was recommended to seal the car with SPI Epoxy, then do regular 2k, NOT HB. So, regular 2k vs. HB?? And would you spray the SS on the 2k?
Though, I do like the idea of: Stripped body --> SPI Epoxy --> Black SS. Less stuff to screw up. Though, it will be painted at a tech school. So, I'm wondering if they could get the Epoxy smooth enough to not need 2k.
if they cant spray the epoxy they will never get the ss right. epoxy only is just what i prefer. it is epoxy primer after all. if sanded next day it is fine. after several days it cures and gets harder , which i prefer when sanding. epoxy should be used for sealer before paint. when your car was new there was no primer on it to speak of . just sealer.
if they cant spray the epoxy they will never get the ss right. epoxy only is just what i prefer. it is epoxy primer after all. if sanded next day it is fine. after several days it cures and gets harder , which i prefer when sanding. epoxy should be used for sealer before paint. when your car was new there was no primer on it to speak of . just sealer.
Ok. What is the hard part about Epoxy? Spraying it, or taking the time to get is sanded straight? I do like the idea of only having two products on the car, Epoxy and SS black. Less things for them to screw up as not having to spray a bunch of different stuff.
And you're saying if I have them spray 2k over the Epoxy, then they'd need to spray another coat of Epoxy on top of the 2k to seal it? What about just using the SPI 2k sealer instead of the Epoxy?
Others have recommended just spraying the ss on top of the 2k. Though, I'd say it would help the paint to stick by putting a sealer on top of the 2k as you say.
i paint over epoxy . nothing else . i dont use 2k so i have no idea. i've not seen a 2k primer that did not shrink some and die down taking my top coat with it. but this is just the way i have chosen to do it. not saying anyone is wrong .
i paint over epoxy . nothing else . i dont use 2k so i have no idea. i've not seen a 2k primer that did not shrink some and die down taking my top coat with it. but this is just the way i have chosen to do it. not saying anyone is wrong .
Yup, everyone has their way of doing things. And you say the factory just had a sealer then base/clear? I didn't know that.
I'm gonna talk to the shop teacher to see if he thinks they can spray Epoxy, get it straight, and spray SS black over it. I do like the fact that if I later get cracks, then they would be black cracks instead of white cracks like what I've got going on now.
I'm thinking just having to spray two products would be easier for them to do than spraying Epoxy, then 2k, then more epoxy, then ss. Less chances of them screwing something up.
Just wondering, how come you spray Universal Clear over ss? Do you just do that on certain colors or all including black?
i never clear over black. reds and a few others will change color on you when you sand the top coat. i use ss for color because i dont like base/cc . just personal preference . there is nothing wrong with using primer. i just prefer epoxy over 2k . i can tell you now that trying to tell a painter how you want it done is a losing battle in most cases. might be best to just let him do it his way. if he's using 2nd line paint i would not expect much from him.