Hi

I am going with a solid color black ( PPG 9700 )

Would you recommend single stage or Base clear. I have heard the base/clear is much easier for a beginner "which I am "
due to you can fix and repair mistakes, runs orange peel ect.

But I have heard other people say there is no need to use Base clear
on a solid color like black or white.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

i always use single stage for black. looks richer to me. if you shoot it in single stage and are not pleased with it you can block it with 600 and hit it again.

 

I agree with Porchdog single stage black is the better way to go. Clear on black is just not as rich looking. In my opinion it is easier to repair as well. For a beginner if your prep is good 9700 is pretty easy.-Jim

 

just keep blocking and shooting until your happy

 

Thanks, I was hoping you both of you would post as the information you have already given me for prep has been invaluable. SS sounds like the direction I need to go.

Also do you recommend color sanding the SS when finished ?

Also I am painting with doors, hood, bumpers and tops of the car. I was hoping to spray the body first then the other items a week later, this should not cause any issues since it is a solid color correct ? I know I will need to make sure the conditions and mixing are exact for both times.

 

I believe black when color sanded smooth and hopefully somewhat straight (panels flat) is hard to beat. I always color sand it. PPG can be color sanded even after sitting for a long time without any issues.

You should be able to paint it apart and the only time I paint them together is with candies, pearls, heavy metallics or customs (like two tones). I often try to batch my paint just in case although black is not as critical as some of the other cars. As long as you paint them with the same mix and approximate same pressure you should do fine. Good luck-Jim

 

Thanks Jim

I will post some pictures of my progress once I start

 

So, what type of paint would be recommended for solid black on a C4? I'm wanting to go cheap as I'm gonna sell it, but I still want UV protection.

Need to know what and how much of each type of paint needed. I'm probably gonna use the cheap Dupont type paint as the paint store the school I'm gonna get my Vette painted at use Dupont.

 

Chroma one

 

So, that is cheaper than Nason?

 

I've read hear that you and others seem to like single stage for white and black. Do you have the same opinon for other solid colors, I'm almost ready to try spraying my 68 Safari Yellow, would you recomend single stage for this? Also I called SPI for this color and he said he dosn't have it, so who's paint might you recomend? Thanks much!

 

i use ppg concept for color. i use s/s even when clear coating . reds are tuff because they will orange up on you when sanded so i clear them. but black or a light color is tuff to beat in s/s .
keep in mind i use ppg because i'm po'd at dupont. chromaone is about the same. it's all urethane.

 

nason is okay...comparable to omni. If you are painting a bus or industrial equipment. Or a car you are going to sell immediately. Or a race car. You get the idea?

Nason is cheaper.... but you get what you pay for. Chroma one is better but it is still only single stage.

Next.. If I wanted to paint a black Ferrari or a black Porsche. I would use a high line paint. Like the factory used. Maybe Glasurit or Standox. Quality paint. Usually gives a quality appearance.

You said you might want to fetch 13k for your vette after paint. In this market... right now you will have a very tough time selling it at that price. So, that being said. You will need to spend at least. At the very minimum of 10%-20% of the value of the car. On materials. So if you think the car is worth 13k you should spend 1,300 on materials. Which is not alot these days. You're going to need to spend time and materials to make this car remarkably better than most other vettes out there. That motor better have something done to it as well. I do believe most vettes like yours are going for approx. 8k.
So if you do a crappy paint job. Like sherwin willims house paint with a roller. And your motor is just stock. After paint it will be worth probably 6k. Good luck.

D

 

90 days after paint.... put a car cover on your car. UV rays will be blocked. That is all.


D

 

Why wait 90 days?

If I go with a bc/cc, then I shouldn't need to worry for UV damage, right? I just don't see how a single stage can have the same UV protection as a bc/cc.

I've talked to others here who have painted 100% Nason, and it came out well. I talked to the paint shop, and they told me they've seen cars painted with Nason and Dupont, and they couldn't tell a difference. They said the big difference between the two is Dupont better matches up with factory paint, and holds up better. They recommend Nason. They weren't pushing me to buy top dollar Dupont paint.

My paint is a 10 footer. It is dark and shiny and looks good around town. But when you look close, you can see alot of scratches and rock chips all over it. The top half of the driver door has all spider cracked. So, I'm sure a Nason paint job will look alot better than the repaint job that is on there now.

And, yes I know alot of C4 Corvettes have sold for around $8k. I've seen them from $5k up to $25k. I've seen some for sale in the local wheels and deals for $8K up to $11k-$12k-$13k.

Around a year ago, I saw a 1989 for sale at a Chevy dealer in a big city with a sticker price of $16k. It was in pretty bad shape. It did have a recent paint job that looked nice. One of the headlights wouldn't even come up. It had that ****ty wooden panel material inside that was falling off. It was only up there for a few weeks or so. I don't know what they sold it for.

 

it takes 90 days for paint to cure.


nason is good. but not really for a vette. Their black looks brown. Unless you want a brown vette then its all good. Personally I think a vette is an american version of a ferrari. I wouldn't spray garbage can paint on a ferrari.
It depends on how you look at it. Yes BC/CC is the best way to approach it. But not Nason. Unless you are going for the garbage can appearance. Nason and omni are the cheapest. You get what you pay for.
An example... When you work on your car.... Do you like Snap on tools or Walmart tools? I personally like the name brand. Because using a cheap tool may strip out a bolt. Or cause damage that I may not be able to repair. All because I was trying to cut corners.
Its the same with paint. You might think you are saving money. But in the long run. You will damage the appearance of your vehicle. I have been painting for almost 20 years.
At the very minimum you should spray chroma base and 72400 clear.
At best you should use spies hecker (owned by Dupont) 2002 black and 8015 clear.(or use a nice 2k clear) Spies also has a black primer. Which doubles as a sealer.
I'm just trying to show you different ways of looking at a paint job. There are several ways to approach it. Other guys on this forum have different ways to approach their paint jobs as well.
Use this time to educate yourself on vehicle paint jobs.

 

I'd use the single stage black from Southern Polyurethanes Inc.
Quality is as good or better than the premium paint from the major companies and the price is not that much more than Omni or Nason.

I wouldn't worry about UV. Single state urethanes have plenty of UV protection.

 

Just found out SPI isn't doing ss or base color anymore. Just primers and clears. What would be a good SPI primer?

There is another guy there on the board that is selling some ss black called black ice. I think it is $200 for a 1.5 gallons sprayable. No reducers and comes with instructions.

 

What would need to be done to the motor? It runs fine. Head gasket replacement?

 

That is not true. Last I heard Barry was still considering keeping some SS colors but he is not dropping base coats. He might drop some base colors but add some new ones.