Need advice with door gaps
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,993
Likes: 9
From: Gig Harbor WA
Need advice with door gaps
My 72 has a history of prior body work and panels, so the door gaps are in need of dressing up..shimming and door adjustment will be a start, but I WILL need to add glass to the doors and/or the body...
Whats the correct gap?? 3/16th's I've heard??
Whats the best process to add to the door or body edges?
Glass on the side edges, the narrow end edges, or what??
Common sense tells me to add more glass, then carefully sand off the excess to correct contours and gap... I'm thinking to add to the body, since the doors look to be unmolested, that way I can match the original curves and contours, using the door shape as a guide.
Need any and all help here, as this is pretty much the last step before I head to the paint shop.
THANKS!!!
Whats the correct gap?? 3/16th's I've heard??
Whats the best process to add to the door or body edges?
Glass on the side edges, the narrow end edges, or what??
Common sense tells me to add more glass, then carefully sand off the excess to correct contours and gap... I'm thinking to add to the body, since the doors look to be unmolested, that way I can match the original curves and contours, using the door shape as a guide.
Need any and all help here, as this is pretty much the last step before I head to the paint shop.
THANKS!!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
I'll start off, but let me first say I am not a professional bodyman. I have successfully addressed door gap issues, but they were done with body mount shiming. You don't want to be fixing door gap issues with body work until proper shiming can be confirmed. Has the body been off the frame? You say previous body work has been done, but you do not get into specifics. Is the frame straight? Pictures would be most helpful for a trained eye to evaluate. Are the gaps in question where a new door skin was replaced, front clip mounted, or rear fender panel bonded? If you are having the car painted professionally, have the issues evaluated by the pro before paint. As you already know, you want the car straight before paint, but done the right way.
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,092
Likes: 2
From: walpole ma
My 72 has a history of prior body work and panels, so the door gaps are in need of dressing up..shimming and door adjustment will be a start, but I WILL need to add glass to the doors and/or the body...
Whats the correct gap?? 3/16th's I've heard??
Whats the best process to add to the door or body edges?
Glass on the side edges, the narrow end edges, or what??
Common sense tells me to add more glass, then carefully sand off the excess to correct contours and gap... I'm thinking to add to the body, since the doors look to be unmolested, that way I can match the original curves and contours, using the door shape as a guide.
Need any and all help here, as this is pretty much the last step before I head to the paint shop.
THANKS!!!
Whats the correct gap?? 3/16th's I've heard??
Whats the best process to add to the door or body edges?
Glass on the side edges, the narrow end edges, or what??
Common sense tells me to add more glass, then carefully sand off the excess to correct contours and gap... I'm thinking to add to the body, since the doors look to be unmolested, that way I can match the original curves and contours, using the door shape as a guide.
Need any and all help here, as this is pretty much the last step before I head to the paint shop.
THANKS!!!
Adding glass to the body will be fine if you are out of other options
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
I agree, if you are certain the frame is straight and the body is shimmed properly, extend the edges and not raise the body level. Custom car builders go for a uniform gap by extending the edge of panels. The orginal C-3 body did not have great gaps and were built rather sloppy. Making 3/16ths uniform gaps would be ideal and make the feature stand out as a custom touch. Remember, if you do this to make the extended panel uniform thickness to the rest of the extended edge.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,993
Likes: 9
From: Gig Harbor WA
Body has not been off the frame.
New hood surround and right front fender were recently installed by professional vette body repair shop.
Left rear fender panel was installed sometime in the past.
Doors do not sag and there is no up-down play in the door hinges.
Doors are original.
I believe the frame is straight. I replaced the entire suspension, and noted no problems with any of that. Drives straight and sits level.
Car will be painted by a pro (so to speak) but he doesnt have alot of Vette-specific experience. I'm a retired Navy guy and will paint it thru the base auto hobby shop (that will make sense to any of you military guys out there) I do all the prep first.
Hope this info answers questions and helps with advice. I'll get some pictures up..
Thanks!
New hood surround and right front fender were recently installed by professional vette body repair shop.
Left rear fender panel was installed sometime in the past.
Doors do not sag and there is no up-down play in the door hinges.
Doors are original.
I believe the frame is straight. I replaced the entire suspension, and noted no problems with any of that. Drives straight and sits level.
Car will be painted by a pro (so to speak) but he doesnt have alot of Vette-specific experience. I'm a retired Navy guy and will paint it thru the base auto hobby shop (that will make sense to any of you military guys out there) I do all the prep first.
Hope this info answers questions and helps with advice. I'll get some pictures up..
Thanks!
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 893
Likes: 7
From: Hazerswoude-Rijndijk Zuid Holland
Do the easy thing!! Shim you door as close to correct you can get. Then take some polyester or polyester filled "bondo" and smooth the area near the gap. Once hardened take your Dremel and follow the door contours until you like the gap. Repeat as needed.
ADD to the Body!! If possible, let the door be.
I personally adjusted my right body panel and re-glued it to make it fit the door/gap better.
ADD to the Body!! If possible, let the door be.
I personally adjusted my right body panel and re-glued it to make it fit the door/gap better.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,993
Likes: 9
From: Gig Harbor WA
Thanks.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,993
Likes: 9
From: Gig Harbor WA
Hey Alan,
I saw the pictures and the thread, but cant tell exactly what you did... add material to the door, the fender, both? Also, did you grind down the sides of the panel and add material, or did you add only to the leading or trailing edges (which would be difficult I think)?
Sorry for all the questions!
Thanks!
I saw the pictures and the thread, but cant tell exactly what you did... add material to the door, the fender, both? Also, did you grind down the sides of the panel and add material, or did you add only to the leading or trailing edges (which would be difficult I think)?
Sorry for all the questions!
Thanks!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,301
Likes: 4,389
From: Westminster Maryland
MS72,
The first picture shows the preparation for adding a LITTLE material to the front edge of the door. Remember we're talking about very little material. I worked it first from the outside and then from the inside.
The other pictures show the process for getting a very smooth 'flow' from the front and rear fenders to the door. I found that this affects how your eye perceives the gap too.
I have only 1 car's experience with this, someone like RRV ( Hi Stan) can be a lot more help to you. That black paint in his current post shows some incredible PREPARATION. Stan certainly knows body work.
Regards,
Alan
PS: Remember the front edge of the door wants to hit the rear edge of the fender when the door is half way open so easily, it'll break your heart!!!
The first picture shows the preparation for adding a LITTLE material to the front edge of the door. Remember we're talking about very little material. I worked it first from the outside and then from the inside.
The other pictures show the process for getting a very smooth 'flow' from the front and rear fenders to the door. I found that this affects how your eye perceives the gap too.
I have only 1 car's experience with this, someone like RRV ( Hi Stan) can be a lot more help to you. That black paint in his current post shows some incredible PREPARATION. Stan certainly knows body work.
Regards,
Alan
PS: Remember the front edge of the door wants to hit the rear edge of the fender when the door is half way open so easily, it'll break your heart!!!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,993
Likes: 9
From: Gig Harbor WA
MS72,
The first picture shows the preparation for adding a LITTLE material to the front edge of the door. Remember we're talking about very little material. I worked it first from the outside and then from the inside.
The other pictures show the process for getting a very smooth 'flow' from the front and rear fenders to the door. I found that this affects how your eye perceives the gap too.
I have only 1 car's experience with this, someone like RRV ( Hi Stan) can be a lot more help to you. That black paint in his current post shows some incredible PREPARATION. Stan certainly knows body work.
Regards,
Alan
The first picture shows the preparation for adding a LITTLE material to the front edge of the door. Remember we're talking about very little material. I worked it first from the outside and then from the inside.
The other pictures show the process for getting a very smooth 'flow' from the front and rear fenders to the door. I found that this affects how your eye perceives the gap too.
I have only 1 car's experience with this, someone like RRV ( Hi Stan) can be a lot more help to you. That black paint in his current post shows some incredible PREPARATION. Stan certainly knows body work.
Regards,
Alan
BTW, plan to PM Stan directly. His work is incredible.
Thanks!
