Paint type for C4
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: Shawnee OK
you should just have them use sherwin williams black primer on the car. Im sure other paint manf. have black primer as well but that is the only manf. that i have used for black primer.then no need to spend the money for sealer and your paint will cover just as fast. I realize you said they use dupont but really they can spray anything you give them
Can they not get a discount at the paint store? Most ppl that buy alot of paint have an account with 20-30 percent discount off the retail cost. If they dont have one it isnt too hard to find someone to get the paint for you that does. will knock a big chunck of your money off right there.
Can they not get a discount at the paint store? Most ppl that buy alot of paint have an account with 20-30 percent discount off the retail cost. If they dont have one it isnt too hard to find someone to get the paint for you that does. will knock a big chunck of your money off right there.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
you should just have them use sherwin williams black primer on the car. Im sure other paint manf. have black primer as well but that is the only manf. that i have used for black primer.then no need to spend the money for sealer and your paint will cover just as fast. I realize you said they use dupont but really they can spray anything you give them
Can they not get a discount at the paint store? Most ppl that buy alot of paint have an account with 20-30 percent discount off the retail cost. If they dont have one it isnt too hard to find someone to get the paint for you that does. will knock a big chunck of your money off right there.
Can they not get a discount at the paint store? Most ppl that buy alot of paint have an account with 20-30 percent discount off the retail cost. If they dont have one it isnt too hard to find someone to get the paint for you that does. will knock a big chunck of your money off right there.
I've talked to him a few times before, and he doesn't talk alot. I think I'd be lucky if he uses the type of paint I want. It won't be for a few months as I'm down on a list to get painted. I'll give him that above list of the type of paint I'm wanting, then I'll check with the paint store to make sure he ordered the right paint. Really, I have no idea when it will get painted, he'll just give me a call. I'm hoping it is not more than 2 months.
Oh, and I don't want to mix paint brands.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
wombvette,
I've had my Vette for sale on the Local Sales Network for a month and a half. I uploaded lots of pics. Price: $12.5k. A guy e-mailed me telling me he is ready for a Vette, and his neighbor has one for sale that is blue with 58k miles on it. Though he is looking for a black Vette and believes mine is for him. So, my asking price doesn't look too far fetched. Mine has 90k miles on it.
I e-mailed him back telling him I'm going to get it repainted and will be replacing the emblems as well.
So, if he doesn't buy another one while I'm waiting to get mine painted, I should be in good shape!
I've had my Vette for sale on the Local Sales Network for a month and a half. I uploaded lots of pics. Price: $12.5k. A guy e-mailed me telling me he is ready for a Vette, and his neighbor has one for sale that is blue with 58k miles on it. Though he is looking for a black Vette and believes mine is for him. So, my asking price doesn't look too far fetched. Mine has 90k miles on it.
I e-mailed him back telling him I'm going to get it repainted and will be replacing the emblems as well.
So, if he doesn't buy another one while I'm waiting to get mine painted, I should be in good shape!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 13
From: San Angelo TX
SPI single stage black is $105/gal and the activator per gallon is $87.
I've only heard good things about SPI paints although personally, I've only used their epoxy primer which is excellent.
I've only heard good things about SPI paints although personally, I've only used their epoxy primer which is excellent.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
I think I like bc/cc better than ss. From what I get with ss, you spray a base coat, then mix in some clear on the last coat. So, if you do any sanding or buffing on the ss, then you're rubbing out the UV protection.
What is the cheapest brand of Dupont paint? I know they have a Chroma One and others.
Pic of upper half of driver door:
Nose area. Looks like the paint has millions of micro chips in it:
Though, it looks good driving around town:
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 13
From: San Angelo TX
The tech school shop always uses Dupont. I'm not sure if the teacher would be willing to use other types of paint. Plus, different brands/types of paint have to be applied differently. So, I don't know if they would follow the directions of SPI, or just paint it like they do Dupont. The teacher doesn't like to talk much when I've stopped by a few times.
I think I like bc/cc better than ss. From what I get with ss, you spray a base coat, then mix in some clear on the last coat. So, if you do any sanding or buffing on the ss, then you're rubbing out the UV protection.
What is the cheapest brand of Dupont paint? I know they have a Chroma One and others.
I think I like bc/cc better than ss. From what I get with ss, you spray a base coat, then mix in some clear on the last coat. So, if you do any sanding or buffing on the ss, then you're rubbing out the UV protection.
What is the cheapest brand of Dupont paint? I know they have a Chroma One and others.
You don't use clear at all. That's why they call it single stage.
Also, it has UV protection. You are way too hung up on that. Color sand it all you want the UV protection on high quality ss paints remains excellent. It has already been pointed out more than once by others here, and I agree, that with Black, single stage is the way to go. But bc/cc wouldn't be a wrong choice. It's a matter of preference. However, experience from this forum is telling you to use the single stage.
To answer your question, Nason is the cheapest Dupont paint.
However, I wouldn't use it on a Corvette and feel good about it. And, as it has been pointed out, you have to buy more of it so you don't end up saving that much money. If you have to use Dupont, pay the extra and use their ChromaOne or ChromaPremier.
All single stage urethanes will be applied the same. It's just the mixing ratios with activator and reducers that are different. Just follow the directions on the P sheets. It's not rocket science.
I can't help you with your teacher. Sounds like he is set in his ways and not very open minded.
And, btw, that car need to be stripped. Make sure it is done right.
Last edited by roger55; Aug 17, 2008 at 08:50 AM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
Your thinking is all incorrect about single stage.
You don't use clear at all. That's why they call it single stage.
Also, it has UV protection. You are way too hung up on that. Color sand it all you want the UV protection on high quality ss paints remains excellent. It has already been pointed out more than once by others here, and I agree, that with Black, single stage is the way to go. But bc/cc wouldn't be a wrong choice. It's a matter of preference. However, experience from this forum is telling you to use the single stage.
To answer your question, Nason is the cheapest Dupont paint.
However, I wouldn't use it on a Corvette and feel good about it. And, as it has been pointed out, you have to buy more of it so you don't end up saving that much money. If you have to use Dupont, pay the extra and use their ChromaOne or ChromaPremier.
All single stage urethanes will be applied the same. It's just the mixing ratios with activator and reducers that are different. Just follow the directions on the P sheets. It's not rocket science.
I can't help you with your teacher. Sounds like he is set in his ways and not very open minded.
And, btw, that car need to be stripped. Make sure it is done right.
You don't use clear at all. That's why they call it single stage.
Also, it has UV protection. You are way too hung up on that. Color sand it all you want the UV protection on high quality ss paints remains excellent. It has already been pointed out more than once by others here, and I agree, that with Black, single stage is the way to go. But bc/cc wouldn't be a wrong choice. It's a matter of preference. However, experience from this forum is telling you to use the single stage.
To answer your question, Nason is the cheapest Dupont paint.
However, I wouldn't use it on a Corvette and feel good about it. And, as it has been pointed out, you have to buy more of it so you don't end up saving that much money. If you have to use Dupont, pay the extra and use their ChromaOne or ChromaPremier.
All single stage urethanes will be applied the same. It's just the mixing ratios with activator and reducers that are different. Just follow the directions on the P sheets. It's not rocket science.
I can't help you with your teacher. Sounds like he is set in his ways and not very open minded.
And, btw, that car need to be stripped. Make sure it is done right.
Stripped means you take it down to the glass?
Some say ss is just as good as bc/cc. Then I read on google that ss doesn't have as good UV protection as bc/cc.
I'll get some prices on Dupont ss. I'm guessing that would be primer, sealer, then ss?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,357
Likes: 1,592
From: Western NY
Not to "flame" anybody, but "roger55" is right...The shop teacher is your enemy here. If he's teaching apprentices how to paint cars, they need to be able to paint with ALL types of paint, as well as ALL brands of paint. When they get into the working world, they won't be able to tell their potential employers that they only work with ONE brand....
Just my opinion on the "mind games" behind selling a car....I understand that you're trying to minimize your expenditure, because you want to sell the car. However, nothing will raise suspicions with potential buyers more than an either a poorly repainted car, or a car that has a "patchwork" of resprayed areas. I'll assume that your car has never been crashed, but if you skimp on this work, it will scream "wreck"!!
Just my opinion on the "mind games" behind selling a car....I understand that you're trying to minimize your expenditure, because you want to sell the car. However, nothing will raise suspicions with potential buyers more than an either a poorly repainted car, or a car that has a "patchwork" of resprayed areas. I'll assume that your car has never been crashed, but if you skimp on this work, it will scream "wreck"!!
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
Not to "flame" anybody, but "roger55" is right...The shop teacher is your enemy here. If he's teaching apprentices how to paint cars, they need to be able to paint with ALL types of paint, as well as ALL brands of paint. When they get into the working world, they won't be able to tell their potential employers that they only work with ONE brand....
Just my opinion on the "mind games" behind selling a car....I understand that you're trying to minimize your expenditure, because you want to sell the car. However, nothing will raise suspicions with potential buyers more than an either a poorly repainted car, or a car that has a "patchwork" of resprayed areas. I'll assume that your car has never been crashed, but if you skimp on this work, it will scream "wreck"!!
Just my opinion on the "mind games" behind selling a car....I understand that you're trying to minimize your expenditure, because you want to sell the car. However, nothing will raise suspicions with potential buyers more than an either a poorly repainted car, or a car that has a "patchwork" of resprayed areas. I'll assume that your car has never been crashed, but if you skimp on this work, it will scream "wreck"!!
What brand/type of paint do you recommend on the cheap side?
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: Shawnee OK
Yeah, I appreciate the input. I'm guessing the turn off to ss is my Firebird has been painted with Dupont ss. And it has flaked off in certain places, and has faded/washed out to hell.
Stripped means you take it down to the glass?
Some say ss is just as good as bc/cc. Then I read on google that ss doesn't have as good UV protection as bc/cc.
I'll get some prices on Dupont ss. I'm guessing that would be primer, sealer, then ss?
Stripped means you take it down to the glass?
Some say ss is just as good as bc/cc. Then I read on google that ss doesn't have as good UV protection as bc/cc.
I'll get some prices on Dupont ss. I'm guessing that would be primer, sealer, then ss?
just go with nason if you are going to use cheap paint. It is black and it will cover fine and fast with whatever brand you use. If it were red or yellow it would take alot more to cover.. and like was said above all that paint has to come off or those cracks will show through when the paint starts to cure. not to mention having a eurethane over god knows what kind of paint it was shot with before could cause reaction immediately or further down the road.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
ss will fade but is easily buffed back to a nice shine. many of the red fox body mustangs were single stage and ppl think they need a new paint job when you can do a little wet sanding and run a buffer over it will shine like new.
just go with nason if you are going to use cheap paint. It is black and it will cover fine and fast with whatever brand you use. If it were red or yellow it would take alot more to cover.. and like was said above all that paint has to come off or those cracks will show through when the paint starts to cure. not to mention having a eurethane over god knows what kind of paint it was shot with before could cause reaction immediately or further down the road.
just go with nason if you are going to use cheap paint. It is black and it will cover fine and fast with whatever brand you use. If it were red or yellow it would take alot more to cover.. and like was said above all that paint has to come off or those cracks will show through when the paint starts to cure. not to mention having a eurethane over god knows what kind of paint it was shot with before could cause reaction immediately or further down the road.
Though, I'm sure even with Nason, it will look better than what I've got on it now. It is still shiny and looks good driving down the road. But when you look close out of the glare, you can see the millions of white spots/chips/scratches.
The car did come with a new Wolfe car cover. I'm thinking that has added to the scratches. I'll have to get another cover that won't cause scratches.
If they use chemicals to lift the paint up, is there a certain type I need to tell them to use? I'm guessing they need to take it down to the glass?
Last edited by samsonb; Aug 21, 2008 at 04:07 PM.
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: Shawnee OK
Ok, thanks. I was looking at going with Nason 2k high fill pimer. The Nason sealer only comes in grey. So, I figured I'd go with Dupont sealer black (VS7). That way, it will be easier to spray a black (99) base coat over a black sealer. Then the overall Nason urethane clear.
Though, I'm sure even with Nason, it will look better than what I've got on it now. It is still shiny and looks good driving down the road. But when you look close out of the glare, you can see the millions of white spots/chips/scratches.
The car did come with a new Wolfe car cover. I'm thinking that has added to the scratches. I'll have to get another cover that won't cause scratches.
If they use chemicals to lift the paint up, is there a certain type I need to tell them to use? I'm guessing they need to take it down to the glass?
Though, I'm sure even with Nason, it will look better than what I've got on it now. It is still shiny and looks good driving down the road. But when you look close out of the glare, you can see the millions of white spots/chips/scratches.
The car did come with a new Wolfe car cover. I'm thinking that has added to the scratches. I'll have to get another cover that won't cause scratches.
If they use chemicals to lift the paint up, is there a certain type I need to tell them to use? I'm guessing they need to take it down to the glass?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
yeah all the way to the glass. I dont like the idea of using a chemical stripper on fiberglass and never do so i cant help you there but i know they make a special stripper for glass or smc. I would sand it down to the glass. what you have on that door is called crows feet and it is just little cracks in the paint and they go all the way down. generally see it on a repaint or ford and jeep dark colors.
I noticed some areas are thin, and some are real thick. I don't know what the PO did for a repaint, if they took it down to the glass, or just painted over the original.
But, I'll tell the shop to take it down to the glass by sanding. That way it will be done right with a fresh coat of primer.
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: Shawnee OK
What causes the "crows feet"?
I noticed some areas are thin, and some are real thick. I don't know what the PO did for a repaint, if they took it down to the glass, or just painted over the original.
But, I'll tell the shop to take it down to the glass by sanding. That way it will be done right with a fresh coat of primer.
I noticed some areas are thin, and some are real thick. I don't know what the PO did for a repaint, if they took it down to the glass, or just painted over the original.
But, I'll tell the shop to take it down to the glass by sanding. That way it will be done right with a fresh coat of primer.
Maybe by using a cheap paint also and possibly the paint having a reaction to whatever is underneath of it and not being compatible.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
I ended up ordering a rear hatch weatherstrip from Willcox. The hatch strip that is on there now is in good shape, but is split in the corners. So, since tapeing around the hatch strip would probably be the hardest thing to tape. I figured I'd just have them pull it before they paint, then install the new Willcox strip.
I pretty much decided on going with a bc/cc system. Probably Nason as I'll probably loose a couple of grand when I sale the car.
I pretty much decided on going with a bc/cc system. Probably Nason as I'll probably loose a couple of grand when I sale the car.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 87
From: bluff dale tx
if they used quality dupont ss and it chaulked you need to find a real painter. dont know what they did but quality urethane does not do this. bc/cc is for production and repair . any solid color i do is ss . you get what you pay for in paint. trying to save a hundred bucks on paint is what ruins most jobs. just maco it and put a cover over it.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
if they used quality dupont ss and it chaulked you need to find a real painter. dont know what they did but quality urethane does not do this. bc/cc is for production and repair . any solid color i do is ss . you get what you pay for in paint. trying to save a hundred bucks on paint is what ruins most jobs. just maco it and put a cover over it.
It looks like SPI isn't making ss or base paint anymore. Just primer and clears. So, I guess if I went with SPI, it would have to be base coat (another brand) and SPI clear?
Last edited by samsonb; Oct 16, 2008 at 04:49 AM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
Here's some pics of my Firebird. The color behind the decal is what the paint looked like when it got painted in 2002. The second pic you can see the shine and deep red below the wing.
I've got most of the parts pulled for painting. I plan on also pulling the third brake light. I don't want to pull the front nose off. So, the fog lights and nose molding will remain. The door molding is still on, as I'm not sure if I can pull it without warping it.
I've got most of the parts pulled for painting. I plan on also pulling the third brake light. I don't want to pull the front nose off. So, the fog lights and nose molding will remain. The door molding is still on, as I'm not sure if I can pull it without warping it.
Last edited by samsonb; Oct 22, 2008 at 02:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
I talked with the shop teacher the other day to see if he lets people bring in their own paint. He said no cause he shoots Dupont and already has all the tech sheets. But did ask what brand I was wanting to bring in.
So, I think I'll just go with the bottom of the line Dupont. He said base/clear would look good. He said he would strip it down to the factory primer. Then prime it and paint. I don't think he uses Epoxy, probably just 2k.
I'll be popping the outside mirrors off, already have the door molding off, and I may pop the outer door handle off. What do you guys use to keep from getting crap inside the door through the outer mirror hold and outer door handle hole, while you are stripping the old paint off? Just tape it off from the inside?
Thanks
So, I think I'll just go with the bottom of the line Dupont. He said base/clear would look good. He said he would strip it down to the factory primer. Then prime it and paint. I don't think he uses Epoxy, probably just 2k.
I'll be popping the outside mirrors off, already have the door molding off, and I may pop the outer door handle off. What do you guys use to keep from getting crap inside the door through the outer mirror hold and outer door handle hole, while you are stripping the old paint off? Just tape it off from the inside?
Thanks
