Paint type for C4
What type of paint is recommended for the C4, and how much of each would be needed to paint a C4? I plan on going with Dupont, and I don't know if a certain type of primer and clearcoat is needed?
And if you know of any places online that might be selling paint cheaper than a local paint shop, let me know.
What type of paint is recommended for the C4, and how much of each would be needed to paint a C4? I plan on going with Dupont, and I don't know if a certain type of primer and clearcoat is needed?
And if you know of any places online that might be selling paint cheaper than a local paint shop, let me know.
Dupont, $300! Better plan just to do the bumpers then.
3:1:10% Use an iwatta. (better gas mileage) Cut the material flow down a bit. (in case of sags)
Buy a pint of black or value shade 7 sealer. 2870..with 2805 hardener. instead of reducer put some flex in.
2:1:5%-7% splash of flex. sprays well out of a sata 1.2 mm set up.
3:1:10% Use an iwatta. (better gas mileage) Cut the material flow down a bit. (in case of sags)
Buy a pint of black or value shade 7 sealer. 2870..with 2805 hardener. instead of reducer put some flex in.
2:1:5%-7% splash of flex. sprays well out of a sata 1.2 mm set up.
What I will probably do is stop by the school and ask the teacher how much of what he would order to paint my car. I will take those figures to the Dupont store he uses to get prices. If that is more than I want to spend, then I'll just cut the figures in half and have him paint the rear bumper. The top half of the driver door has spider cracks, so I'll have him repaint that as it is pretty bad, and probably the headlight covers and the front license plate holder cover. The front bumper has 4-5 cracks in the paint, I don't know if there will be any extra paint left over to paint that or not if I don't go with painting the whole car.
The Dupont store does have a camera they use to scan the paint off the car to identify what color the paint is. I brought in the headlight scoop, and it came up with a Chrysler black paint code. It has been repainted before by the previous owner, but I don't know what paint he used. I'm gonna bring in a different panel to see if they get the same paint code. So, if I just do a partial paint job, then I'll have them order the same base coat that their camera pulls up so it will match up the best with the rest of the car.
I would have the whole car painted if the costs for paint are around $300. I say I would be better off going with Nason than true Dupont. Maybe then I'll be able to paint the whole car.
Last edited by samsonb; Aug 10, 2008 at 06:37 AM.
What I will probably do is stop by the school and ask the teacher how much of what he would order to paint my car. I will take those figures to the Dupont store he uses to get prices. If that is more than I want to spend, then I'll just cut the figures in half and have him paint the rear bumper. The top half of the driver door has spider cracks, so I'll have him repaint that as it is pretty bad, and probably the headlight covers and the front license plate holder cover. The front bumper has 4-5 cracks in the paint, I don't know if there will be any extra paint left over to paint that or not if I don't go with painting the whole car.
The Dupont store does have a camera they use to scan the paint off the car to identify what color the paint is. I brought in the headlight scoop, and it came up with a Chrysler black paint code. It has been repainted before by the previous owner, but I don't know what paint he used. I'm gonna bring in a different panel to see if they get the same paint code. So, if I just do a partial paint job, then I'll have them order the same base coat that their camera pulls up so it will match up the best with the rest of the car.
I would have the whole car painted if the costs for paint are around $300. I say I would be better off going with Nason than true Dupont.
Maybe then I'll be able to paint the whole car.
I have always figured bc/cc would hold up better as you have a clear over the bc. Whereas, in a ss, the base coat and clear are mixed together so you'll have some of the paint on the surface. I figured you'd have more UV damage with a ss.
Oh, and why PPG Omni ss instead of Dupont Nason ss?
I have always figured bc/cc would hold up better as you have a clear over the bc. Whereas, in a ss, the base coat and clear are mixed together so you'll have some of the paint on the surface. I figured you'd have more UV damage with a ss.
Oh, and why PPG Omni ss instead of Dupont Nason ss?
99 is the magic code k,f,e indicates which "DUPONT" product you want to spray
gm black is: 99k chroma base
99f chroma premier
99e chroma one
no need for a camera and all that jazz.
I said to use the dark colored sealer to cover the primer and to black everything out. So you wouldn't need that much single stage for coverage. In your situation....you won't need flex because you are trying to cut corners. If you are selling the car.. 2 coats of chroma one. And down the road she goes.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
99 is the magic code k,f,e indicates which "DUPONT" product you want to spray
gm black is: 99k chroma base
99f chroma premier
99e chroma one
no need for a camera and all that jazz.
I said to use the dark colored sealer to cover the primer and to black everything out. So you wouldn't need that much single stage for coverage. In your situation....you won't need flex because you are trying to cut corners. If you are selling the car.. 2 coats of chroma one. And down the road she goes.
I don't know if I want to go with single stage. It doesn't have as much UV proctection as a bc/cc. Plus with ss, you get what you spray. I've got a red Firebird with ss, and it is chaulked all to hell.
I'll probably check on prices for Nason bc/cc. Which is primer, sealer, base coat, reducer, and clear.
Last edited by samsonb; Aug 11, 2008 at 11:23 AM.
I don't know if I want to go with single stage. It doesn't have as much UV proctection as a bc/cc. Plus with ss, you get what you spray. I've got a red Firebird with ss, and it is chaulked all to hell.
I'll probably check on prices for Nason bc/cc. Which is primer, sealer, base coat, reducer, and clear.
I had him price me Nason. Though, I'm gonna go with Dupont sealer so I can get a black sealer on the primer as the Nason sealer only comes in grey. He estimated what I would need, I'll have to talk to the shop teacher to figure amounts, though he'll order it anyways.
GL 421-19 Nason SelectPrime 2K-Gray
QT 483-87 Nason SelectPrime Act.
QT 7770S Chromaseal VS7 Sealer
GL Fulbase BC/CC 99
GL 441-22 Ful-Base Reducer Slow
GL Nason 498-00 Clear 4:1
QT 483-79 Nason Clear Act.
1/2 PT 7785S Clear Activator
Total: $390
I don't know why there are two activators for the clear on there. But I was mainly just interested in getting an estimate on paint prices.
So, how much in paint would I be looking at if I went with the good stuff (Dupont) in SS urethane for the whole car?
Last edited by samsonb; Aug 11, 2008 at 04:34 PM.
The PO put a cheap paint job on it. It looks nice and shiny when you see it driving down the road or are 10 feet away. But when you look close, you see the tape job. Plus, it's got alot of scratches and rock chips all over it. So, I figure doing a bc/cc in Nason will look 10 times better than what is on there now.
I'm gonna be pulling all the molding off, tail lights, and all lenses. And I'm pulling the fuel door, headlight scoops/cover, and the front license plate holder piece to be painted seperate. I may also pull the front side piece that is beside the battery and the one on the other side. I haven't decided if that would be necessary.
These reason is to minimize what has to be taped.
The PO put a cheap paint job on it. It looks nice and shiny when you see it driving down the road or are 10 feet away. But when you look close, you see the tape job. Plus, it's got alot of scratches and rock chips all over it. So, I figure doing a bc/cc in Nason will look 10 times better than what is on there now.
I'm gonna be pulling all the molding off, tail lights, and all lenses. And I'm pulling the fuel door, headlight scoops/cover, and the front license plate holder piece to be painted seperate. I may also pull the front side piece that is beside the battery and the one on the other side. I haven't decided if that would be necessary.
These reason is to minimize what has to be taped.
The PO put a cheap paint job on it. It looks nice and shiny when you see it driving down the road or are 10 feet away. But when you look close, you see the tape job. Plus, it's got alot of scratches and rock chips all over it. So, I figure doing a bc/cc in Nason will look 10 times better than what is on there now.
I'm gonna be pulling all the molding off, tail lights, and all lenses. And I'm pulling the fuel door, headlight scoops/cover, and the front license plate holder piece to be painted seperate. I may also pull the front side piece that is beside the battery and the one on the other side. I haven't decided if that would be necessary.
These reason is to minimize what has to be taped.
13K for an `89, Yep, you might need a lot of UV protection.
I think that is better than painting the black base on grey sealer.
It probably won't get in for a couple of months, as my name has been put on a list for paint work at the school. In the mean time, I'm pulling most of the stuff off. I'll remove things like the 3rd brake light last to keep from having exposed holes to the rain.
The molding trim is real chaulky. Probably from wax. So, I'm gonna take some steel wool to see if I can buff that stuff out. Might as well while it is off of the car.
Last edited by samsonb; Aug 15, 2008 at 02:36 AM.







