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Paint type for C4

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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 05:05 PM
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Default Paint type for C4

I'm gonna get some paint work done on my C4 as I scrapped the rear bumper a little. I'm gonna get a tech school to paint it. It is black. So I only have to pay for the paint. I don't know if I'll do the whole car or just the rear bumper. I'm only looking at spending around $300 for Dupont paint.

What type of paint is recommended for the C4, and how much of each would be needed to paint a C4? I plan on going with Dupont, and I don't know if a certain type of primer and clearcoat is needed?

And if you know of any places online that might be selling paint cheaper than a local paint shop, let me know.
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
I'm gonna get some paint work done on my C4 as I scrapped the rear bumper a little. I'm gonna get a tech school to paint it. It is black. So I only have to pay for the paint. I don't know if I'll do the whole car or just the rear bumper. I'm only looking at spending around $300 for Dupont paint.

What type of paint is recommended for the C4, and how much of each would be needed to paint a C4? I plan on going with Dupont, and I don't know if a certain type of primer and clearcoat is needed?

And if you know of any places online that might be selling paint cheaper than a local paint shop, let me know.

Dupont, $300! Better plan just to do the bumpers then.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by wombvette
Dupont, $300! Better plan just to do the bumpers then.
Do you know of some other good paint that would total around $300 for the whole car?
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 03:21 AM
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3/4 of a gal. of Chroma one. 12305 hardener. 10 % good reducer. non voc compliant.

3:1:10% Use an iwatta. (better gas mileage) Cut the material flow down a bit. (in case of sags)

Buy a pint of black or value shade 7 sealer. 2870..with 2805 hardener. instead of reducer put some flex in.

2:1:5%-7% splash of flex. sprays well out of a sata 1.2 mm set up.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by derek 91 vette
3/4 of a gal. of Chroma one. 12305 hardener. 10 % good reducer. non voc compliant.

3:1:10% Use an iwatta. (better gas mileage) Cut the material flow down a bit. (in case of sags)

Buy a pint of black or value shade 7 sealer. 2870..with 2805 hardener. instead of reducer put some flex in.

2:1:5%-7% splash of flex. sprays well out of a sata 1.2 mm set up.
I don't know what all of that stuff is. All I know of is a primer, base coat, reducer to double the base coat, and then the clear coat. Some talk of putting in a flex additive, but most say it is not needed as current paint is flexable.

What I will probably do is stop by the school and ask the teacher how much of what he would order to paint my car. I will take those figures to the Dupont store he uses to get prices. If that is more than I want to spend, then I'll just cut the figures in half and have him paint the rear bumper. The top half of the driver door has spider cracks, so I'll have him repaint that as it is pretty bad, and probably the headlight covers and the front license plate holder cover. The front bumper has 4-5 cracks in the paint, I don't know if there will be any extra paint left over to paint that or not if I don't go with painting the whole car.

The Dupont store does have a camera they use to scan the paint off the car to identify what color the paint is. I brought in the headlight scoop, and it came up with a Chrysler black paint code. It has been repainted before by the previous owner, but I don't know what paint he used. I'm gonna bring in a different panel to see if they get the same paint code. So, if I just do a partial paint job, then I'll have them order the same base coat that their camera pulls up so it will match up the best with the rest of the car.

I would have the whole car painted if the costs for paint are around $300. I say I would be better off going with Nason than true Dupont. Maybe then I'll be able to paint the whole car.

Last edited by samsonb; Aug 10, 2008 at 06:37 AM.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
I don't know what all of that stuff is. All I know of is a primer, base coat, reducer to double the base coat, and then the clear coat. Some talk of putting in a flex additive, but most say it is not needed as current paint is flexable.

What I will probably do is stop by the school and ask the teacher how much of what he would order to paint my car. I will take those figures to the Dupont store he uses to get prices. If that is more than I want to spend, then I'll just cut the figures in half and have him paint the rear bumper. The top half of the driver door has spider cracks, so I'll have him repaint that as it is pretty bad, and probably the headlight covers and the front license plate holder cover. The front bumper has 4-5 cracks in the paint, I don't know if there will be any extra paint left over to paint that or not if I don't go with painting the whole car.

The Dupont store does have a camera they use to scan the paint off the car to identify what color the paint is. I brought in the headlight scoop, and it came up with a Chrysler black paint code. It has been repainted before by the previous owner, but I don't know what paint he used. I'm gonna bring in a different panel to see if they get the same paint code. So, if I just do a partial paint job, then I'll have them order the same base coat that their camera pulls up so it will match up the best with the rest of the car.

I would have the whole car painted if the costs for paint are around $300. I say I would be better off going with Nason than true Dupont.
Maybe then I'll be able to paint the whole car.
Why the Dupont? Why bc/cc? If you want god inexpensive paint, go with PPG Omni ss.
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by OzzyC4
Why the Dupont? Why bc/cc? If you want god inexpensive paint, go with PPG Omni ss.
Dupont is what the shop uses. Does the PPG Omni ss have UV protection?

I have always figured bc/cc would hold up better as you have a clear over the bc. Whereas, in a ss, the base coat and clear are mixed together so you'll have some of the paint on the surface. I figured you'd have more UV damage with a ss.

Oh, and why PPG Omni ss instead of Dupont Nason ss?
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
Dupont is what the shop uses. Does the PPG Omni ss have UV protection?

I have always figured bc/cc would hold up better as you have a clear over the bc. Whereas, in a ss, the base coat and clear are mixed together so you'll have some of the paint on the surface. I figured you'd have more UV damage with a ss.

Oh, and why PPG Omni ss instead of Dupont Nason ss?
nason is good.

99 is the magic code k,f,e indicates which "DUPONT" product you want to spray
gm black is: 99k chroma base
99f chroma premier
99e chroma one

no need for a camera and all that jazz.

I said to use the dark colored sealer to cover the primer and to black everything out. So you wouldn't need that much single stage for coverage. In your situation....you won't need flex because you are trying to cut corners. If you are selling the car.. 2 coats of chroma one. And down the road she goes.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by derek 91 vette
nason is good.

99 is the magic code k,f,e indicates which "DUPONT" product you want to spray
gm black is: 99k chroma base
99f chroma premier
99e chroma one

no need for a camera and all that jazz.

I said to use the dark colored sealer to cover the primer and to black everything out. So you wouldn't need that much single stage for coverage. In your situation....you won't need flex because you are trying to cut corners. If you are selling the car.. 2 coats of chroma one. And down the road she goes.
Well, I'd want the paint to match up if I only paint the upper half of the driver door and the rear bumper. I may or may not paint the whole car, it depends on the cost. So, that is why I'm considering Nason, as the price will be cheaper than the Chroma stuff, and I may do the whole car.

I don't know if I want to go with single stage. It doesn't have as much UV proctection as a bc/cc. Plus with ss, you get what you spray. I've got a red Firebird with ss, and it is chaulked all to hell.

I'll probably check on prices for Nason bc/cc. Which is primer, sealer, base coat, reducer, and clear.

Last edited by samsonb; Aug 11, 2008 at 11:23 AM.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
Well, I'd want the paint to match up if I only paint the upper half of the driver door and the rear bumper. I may or may not paint the whole car, it depends on the cost. So, that is why I'm considering Nason, as the price will be cheaper than the Chroma stuff, and I may do the whole car.

I don't know if I want to go with single stage. It doesn't have as much UV proctection as a bc/cc. Plus with ss, you get what you spray. I've got a red Firebird with ss, and it is chaulked all to hell.

I'll probably check on prices for Nason bc/cc. Which is primer, sealer, base coat, reducer, and clear.
It would seem to me that if you are getting your car painted essentially FREE, you would go ahead and spring for the BEST paint possible and go ahead and paint the whole damn thing. And, if you are worried about the UV thing, dont use the cheap lines like Nason, Omni etc. Get the real stuff, no matter what brand, Dupont,PPG etc. And, Single stage, top of the line, urethane is just as resistant to UV as anything else, Base Coat or otherwise. I dont use anything else on Solid colors but SS urethane. My guess is your Firebird was painted with something other than good urethane.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by wombvette
It would seem to me that if you are getting your car painted essentially FREE, you would go ahead and spring for the BEST paint possible and go ahead and paint the whole damn thing. And, if you are worried about the UV thing, dont use the cheap lines like Nason, Omni etc. Get the real stuff, no matter what brand, Dupont,PPG etc. And, Single stage, top of the line, urethane is just as resistant to UV as anything else, Base Coat or otherwise. I dont use anything else on Solid colors but SS urethane. My guess is your Firebird was painted with something other than good urethane.
I went to the paint store and was told it would be around $1k in paint if I went with Dupont. That is more than I'm willing to spend as I will be loosing that money when I sell it. I scraped the rear bumper, so I'm just getting it painted to sell. I'm already gonna be out over $1k already with what I've had to do in the last year I've owned it.

I had him price me Nason. Though, I'm gonna go with Dupont sealer so I can get a black sealer on the primer as the Nason sealer only comes in grey. He estimated what I would need, I'll have to talk to the shop teacher to figure amounts, though he'll order it anyways.

GL 421-19 Nason SelectPrime 2K-Gray
QT 483-87 Nason SelectPrime Act.

QT 7770S Chromaseal VS7 Sealer

GL Fulbase BC/CC 99
GL 441-22 Ful-Base Reducer Slow

GL Nason 498-00 Clear 4:1
QT 483-79 Nason Clear Act.
1/2 PT 7785S Clear Activator

Total: $390

I don't know why there are two activators for the clear on there. But I was mainly just interested in getting an estimate on paint prices.

So, how much in paint would I be looking at if I went with the good stuff (Dupont) in SS urethane for the whole car?

Last edited by samsonb; Aug 11, 2008 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 08:02 PM
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So if you are just wanting to sell it why are we worried about UV protection. Just shoot is with old acrylic enamel and be gone with it.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by wombvette
So if you are just wanting to sell it why are we worried about UV protection. Just shoot is with old acrylic enamel and be gone with it.
Cause it will be sitting outside 24/7. After it gets painted, I'm gonna be asking $13K for it. So, I may have it for sale for a while, might not. I'm going cheap, but I still want the UV protection.

The PO put a cheap paint job on it. It looks nice and shiny when you see it driving down the road or are 10 feet away. But when you look close, you see the tape job. Plus, it's got alot of scratches and rock chips all over it. So, I figure doing a bc/cc in Nason will look 10 times better than what is on there now.

I'm gonna be pulling all the molding off, tail lights, and all lenses. And I'm pulling the fuel door, headlight scoops/cover, and the front license plate holder piece to be painted seperate. I may also pull the front side piece that is beside the battery and the one on the other side. I haven't decided if that would be necessary.

These reason is to minimize what has to be taped.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
Cause it will be sitting outside 24/7. After it gets painted, I'm gonna be asking $13K for it. So, I may have it for sale for a while, might not. I'm going cheap, but I still want the UV protection.

The PO put a cheap paint job on it. It looks nice and shiny when you see it driving down the road or are 10 feet away. But when you look close, you see the tape job. Plus, it's got alot of scratches and rock chips all over it. So, I figure doing a bc/cc in Nason will look 10 times better than what is on there now.

I'm gonna be pulling all the molding off, tail lights, and all lenses. And I'm pulling the fuel door, headlight scoops/cover, and the front license plate holder piece to be painted seperate. I may also pull the front side piece that is beside the battery and the one on the other side. I haven't decided if that would be necessary.

These reason is to minimize what has to be taped.
sounds like you have a plan
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
Cause it will be sitting outside 24/7. After it gets painted, I'm gonna be asking $13K for it. So, I may have it for sale for a while, might not. I'm going cheap, but I still want the UV protection.

The PO put a cheap paint job on it. It looks nice and shiny when you see it driving down the road or are 10 feet away. But when you look close, you see the tape job. Plus, it's got alot of scratches and rock chips all over it. So, I figure doing a bc/cc in Nason will look 10 times better than what is on there now.

I'm gonna be pulling all the molding off, tail lights, and all lenses. And I'm pulling the fuel door, headlight scoops/cover, and the front license plate holder piece to be painted seperate. I may also pull the front side piece that is beside the battery and the one on the other side. I haven't decided if that would be necessary.

These reason is to minimize what has to be taped.

13K for an `89, Yep, you might need a lot of UV protection.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by wombvette
13K for an `89, Yep, you might need a lot of UV protection.
Maybe, maybe not. I paid $12k for it. I'd probably take $11.5k.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 02:19 AM
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Oh, and wombvette. The school DID paint my Firebird with top of the line Dupont paint. I remember a gallon of red cost me $300 six years ago. The school mainly uses Dupont.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
Oh, and wombvette. The school DID paint my Firebird with top of the line Dupont paint. I remember a gallon of red cost me $300 six years ago. The school mainly uses Dupont.
The last I bought, in the last couple of months was about $500 for red. But, Sometimes the so called cheap paint is a false economy though. Most of that stuff doesnt cover as well and gallon for gallon doesnt make as much mix. So, I have found that it is not much difference in the end. Black would probably not be a problem, but some colors dont hide well, and if you are not shooting over a similar color, it takes more of the cheap stuff.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by wombvette
The last I bought, in the last couple of months was about $500 for red. But, Sometimes the so called cheap paint is a false economy though. Most of that stuff doesnt cover as well and gallon for gallon doesnt make as much mix. So, I have found that it is not much difference in the end. Black would probably not be a problem, but some colors dont hide well, and if you are not shooting over a similar color, it takes more of the cheap stuff.
I'm going with Nason high build prime as recommended by someone else on the board. But the Nason sealer is grey. So, I'm going with Dupont VS7 sealer which is black. That way, they will be painting the black base onto black sealer.

I think that is better than painting the black base on grey sealer.

It probably won't get in for a couple of months, as my name has been put on a list for paint work at the school. In the mean time, I'm pulling most of the stuff off. I'll remove things like the 3rd brake light last to keep from having exposed holes to the rain.

The molding trim is real chaulky. Probably from wax. So, I'm gonna take some steel wool to see if I can buff that stuff out. Might as well while it is off of the car.
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 02:14 AM
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It looks like I won't be able to remove the front nose molding, or the front driver lights. I don't feel like taking the front bumper off. Looks like a pain.

Last edited by samsonb; Aug 15, 2008 at 02:36 AM.
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