billlee

I have an 81 vette, was put in a ditch and cracked all 4 corners of the body 3 of the cracks are behind the bonding strips, can the bs be removed and reused? the cracks do not go all the way through the smc so does the back of the pannel need to be reworked? piece of advise don't let your kids play with your toys,,,the get broken

markids77

Need detail photos from varying angles to see what and where. This is not the type of question which can be answered well just by describing the damage.

billlee

here is the link for photos

billlee

http://s696.photobucket.com/albums/vv321/billlee_photo/
here is the link for photos

zwede

It doesn't look that bad. As long as the bonding strips are still firmly attached I would grind out the seam-filler and glass the seams and not worry about the strips.

markids77

From what I can see, I agree with Zwede. A nice looking repair will probably require a full strip, glass and repaint though... a shame since the car appeared to be nice before the accident. Was there any floor/frame/suspension damage as well?

0grandmastercorvette

I sent you two PM's
Call me and we can I will give you my advice. It is repairable....but will take patience and time.
"DUB"

billlee

the bs's are still in place except the fr popped loose right at the end(nose) the frame ext was bent as well as the frame horns, shifted up and over about an inch and a half

markids77

I know you really like the car because you wish to repair it....is it special enough to go through all that pain?

billlee

yes, the car is worth it to me, i know it is a total because of cost but it has meaning aside from the money

markids77

OK. Be certain to do all of the frame work and any mechanical repair including a 4 wheel alignment before you start the body repairs. It sucks to have a wrench slip, or have a crack reappear while doing a pull on a frame rail. Ditto getting grease all over either bare primer, or your shiny new repaint. I hope it comes out better than pre ditch, and let us see the progress!

0grandmastercorvette

...Have your frame and mechanical done first.

There is one quick easy check point of frame to body alignment that you can do. Remove both door sill plates and pull back the carpet slightly...and there SHOULD be ORANGE plastic plugs inserted into the area that was covered by the carpet. They are about the diameter of a DIME.

PULL OUT the front left one and the right rear one...and look down through the hole and see if your frame is still lined up with the body. You should be able to see straight down to the ground...due to the alignment hole in the frame...goes all the way through the frame. This is the area... when bodies are being attached..dowel pins are used to make sure that the body is sguare to the frame. IF your accident hit the frame hard enough. IT IS possible that these points are now out of whack...slightly. Something to check BEFORE any frame straightening is performed. And something to check AFTER it is straightened.
"DUB"

billlee

thanks, having the frame work done this next weekend, thanks for all the help, thanks for the phone dub didn't mean to hang up, cell service died. Dub, if you wouldn't mind could you post the products for my repair as you told me on the phone, I know many amatures in this area have a hard time finding this info. again thanks for all the help, I'll post pics of progress later

John Ulrich

Good Luck!
That's my favorite two-tone Corvette. We need to keep those two-tone Clarets on the road!!!
JU

billlee

OK, its back from frme work, and glass work has begun, will post pics soon. I'm using evercoat resin and smc pannel adheasive for the repairs, any quirks about these products i should worrie about?

0grandmastercorvette

The evercoat SMC resin is a bit touchy. If laminating is to be done it is better to use the WEST system. The problems with the Evercoat SMC resin (that I have run into) is that the surface needs to be really clean (such as with acetone) BEFORE laminating. Sometimes the resin does not want to "bite" correctly due to surface contaminents.

As for the SMC panel adhesive. Just remeber it is an ADHESIVE...and not a FILLER. It is designed to be used for BONDING. Thus...very thin applications generally will not cure. FOLLOW the directions...to the letter... on the can and you should be OK. The more of the SMC adhesive you apply (thickness) the better it will cure. Try not to get to much less than the thickness of a standard wood paint stick if at all possible. So paper thin applications will not set up due to there is not enough adhesive to provide the curing process.

Also remember...that in any laminating or bonding repair. The cleaner the repair area is, (free from dust, dirt, undercoat, paint, moisture or whatever) the better the bond will be. Excellent repairs are all about PROPER PREP, using good MATERIALS and following PROCEDURES that are outilned by the manufacturer to ensure that the product will deliver its intended designed capability.

When those people...who have not tested products that they are using...and choose to alter the procedures...without these tests...usually end up with a repair that is sub-standard...and fails.

Short-cuts taken...because people do not want to take the time or allow the product to preform as designed because they are impatient,
usually end up with a problem unless they have discussed the effects with those who are QUALIFIED and do this for a living and KNOW what can happen. There are short-cuts out there...but when it comes to structural repairs that you want SOLID and NOT coming back. Why take the chance and press your luck.
"DUB"

markids77

Make sure the work area is warm enough for the chemical hardening to take place. I would heat the space 24/7 until the repairs are complete. Wear a good dust mask, and invest in some Tyvek or similar throw away coveralls. You do not want to bring all that 'glass dust into your home.

billlee

Thanks guys, dub, i'd love to use west products but no dealers in my area, i'll send you some pics soon about have the front finished. Mark you're right i haven't forgotten all the fun of glass dust,,,and i still don't miss it. I'm using a heater on all repairs untill hard cure and working small areas it's slow but it works very well and i have lots of time since winter has arrived. A side note for those doing body work,,,long boards a skill earned,,but nothing beats the end results.

derekd8915

DUB

Why are you bringing back these old threads???

DUB