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I am about to start my engine bay cleanup/repaint and have a question. I have several spots of damage on the firewall around where the a/c doghouse was. My question is am I better off repairing with mat/resin or using a short/long strand filler? My goal is to have a nice smooth appearance before priming and repainting. See some pics below:
If the structural integrity of the area that you have shown in the photo's is still solid. Then ...there are a couple of easy ways to repair this without much hassle.
IF the fiberglass is weak, then it would be to your best advantage to grind away as much of the damaged fiberglass, and then apply mat and resin. ONLY remove the fiberglass strands/fuzz that is needed so you still have some foundation of what you are trying to repair. It may take two applications of matt/resin if the area to be repaired is REALLY weak. The first layer applied will harden so you then will have a good foundation to do further laminating. DO NOT try to lanimate it all at once...if the area you prepped is cellophane thin and distorts under light pressure.
If you need further info from me....if the area is rigid but unsightly.....then PM me.
Hard to tell how bad it really is...but I think the matt and resin is the best method...by using your photo's as a guide...and without actually having it in front of me so I can feel the damage and how extensive it really is.
"DUB"
It appears a bit soft in some places, but structurally I think it should be fine. Do you recommend cutting the mat or "tearing" as I have seen some other people do? The last repair I did was for a hole bubba cut to get to the diff bolts, so I cut a large square and layered it with slightly smaller squares, finished with long strand filler and sanded flat.
It appears a bit soft in some places, but structurally I think it should be fine. Do you recommend cutting the mat or "tearing" as I have seen some other people do? The last repair I did was for a hole bubba cut to get to the diff bolts, so I cut a large square and layered it with slightly smaller squares, finished with long strand filler and sanded flat.
I prefer tearing the fiberglass so you do NOT have a defined edge in the matt. Tearing the fiberglass and somewhat pulling at it to "relax" it can often times allow you to laminate around sharp corners without the matt wanting to pull away and create air pockets.
Just remember that the resin and matt need to be bonded to "good" fiberglass. SO....if when you are prepping for laminating...and you find that the original fiberlgass is coming off and the area is getting very thin. STOP!!!... and apply some resin to it first and allow it to dry. Then scuff/grind that a bit ...and then begin your laminating. This is so you can be assured that you are at least trying to get the thickness and integrity back into the area that you are repairinig.
"DUB"