Fiberglass Roller question

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Mar 20, 2010 | 12:25 AM

kortensi

Thread Starter

Burning Brakes

Joined: Jun 2003

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From: San Antonio TX

Fiberglass Roller question

So let me start off by saying that I am new to the fiberglass thing.

I have started by repairing some cracks inside the front clip.

I am using the Dytron/bondo resin and glass.

When I am laying down some glass and resin, I have been using a cheep brush to try to get all of the air bubbles out. When I use the rollers that I have, I just end up pushing the patch of wet glass around instead of rolling out any air or extra resin.

I would think that these are pretty self explanatory to use, but I am having issues. Is there a trick to using them?

Thanks in advance.

KO

Mar 20, 2010 | 01:51 AM

stinger12

Safety Car

Joined: Oct 2006

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From: Calgary Alberta

Quote:

Originally Posted by kortensi

There is no need for using them. the only thing I use for fiberglass work is a 1'' paint brush which I cut so the bristles are 5/8'' long. Dab the paint brush until all the air bubbles are out. try shredding your glass into almost nothing...like they are loose fibers. Or scrunch the matt a lot before applying the glass. You've seen my repairs - I have yet to use a roller.

Mar 20, 2010 | 05:40 PM

kortensi

Thread Starter

Burning Brakes

Joined: Jun 2003

Posts: 1,212

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From: San Antonio TX

Quote:

Originally Posted by stinger12

Thanks. I'll try cutting the brush down and see if that helps with the air bubbles. When I was shredding the glass, it was bunching up like a cotton-ball. It still laid down fine once I had resin on it though.

Mar 20, 2010 | 06:42 PM

stinger12

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From: Calgary Alberta

Quote:

Originally Posted by kortensi

You need to cut the bristles down to 5/8''. Remember, you don't paint fiberglass - you poke at it over, and over, and over, and keep adding resin. I'm going to try and post a video clip on my thread when I get a chance.

Mar 22, 2010 | 07:15 PM

DUB

Race Director

Joined: Apr 2009

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From: Charlotte NC

The reason your patch moved around on you is that you had way to much resin in it It was floatinig in resin and that is why it moved. Applying so much resin where it is dripping like crazy..is fine for the first layer...and if the first layer is soaking in resin...sometimes you can apply a layer of fiberglass mat without any resin...and the resin will soak up into it...and allow you to roll out the resin and air. It takes pratice...but is not that big of a deal...as long as your resin to fiberglass ratios are correct. Excessive resin is not good...just like dry fiberglass mat is not good....it is a balancing act....in order to achieve good strength.

I use paint brushes also...but a roller is really the best. The size of the laminating area is also a contributing factor along with if the area of repair is a stress zone...and you are really looking for the highest strength repair possible.

"DUB"

Mar 23, 2010 | 12:31 PM

porchdog

Drifting

Joined: Apr 2007

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From: bluff dale tx

make your patch on a piece of wax paper , get it wet with the brush then roll it to get it soaked. brush the repair area with a coat of resin. pick up the wax paper and apply your patch. use a roller on the wax paper to seat the patch . when it tacks you can peel the paper off. if some sticks dont panic it will sand off.

Mar 24, 2010 | 01:25 PM

stinger12

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From: Calgary Alberta

Quote:

Originally Posted by porchdog

Use tin foil instead. Tin foil does not have wax on it (which is always bad for a paint job), and it works much better too. I also use a thick piece of plexiglass to sometimes wet out my glass before applying it.

Last edited by stinger12; Mar 24, 2010 at 01:48 PM.