Hello all. I am new to this forum and just need a sanity check on my plans for repainting my 68 coupe. I am just a hobbyist, not a professional painter.

1) I have already stripped the car using Captain Lee.
2) I am currently repairing some small cracks using Evercoat Rage Extreme.
3) For primer, I am planning on using Evercoat Slick Sand. I am going apply this directly to the car (based on what I have read in some of these forums) without using some sort of initial sealer coat, like epoxy.
4) Do I need a sealer over the Slick Sand before the top coat?
5) For the top coat I was planning to use Dupont Nason Ful-Thane because the local paint store has this and I really want to buy local if possible.

Does this sound like a reasonable approach? I am a noob so any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

Rage will not repair cracks so they stay fixed. Cracks must be ground concave and repaired (on your car) with fiberglass mat and polyester resin, two layers minimum then finished with the Rage. Most here are of the opinion that an epoxy primer is the best base under any filler primer as it effectively seals the glass. Ask your Nason jobber if they recommend a sealer over the Slick Sand. Be careful of the small details, and good luck with the job!

 

Mark,
Thanks for the feedback.
I will spend a little more time repairing the cracks as you have suggested.

So....Epoxy first and then Slick Sand? Sounds like good advice. I will talk to the local paint store about sealing over the Slick Sand.

Thanks again for the advice.

 

DO not waste your time talking to your paint store. It is ALWAYS BETTER to call the manufacture and talk to them about the SLICK SAND. The tech dept is always up-to-date with current product re-formulations and what not. I personally/professionally do not use epoxy on fiberglass where it is going to be effected by the sun (exterior surfaces). But to each his/her own.

You will also want to ask about the type of gun and size of needle that is required to apply the SLICK SAND. I use another product much like it...and it requires a gun with a large needle due to the product is much thicker/heavier than most primers on the market. They may advise you onto another product in there line...because the last time I talked with FIberglass/Evercoat....just to make sure the products I use are not being re-formulated....I was in the understanding that the SLICK SAND is a vinyl-ester primer and was designed and formulated to be compatible with SMC...which your car is not. SO make sure that you mention the body composition material tpye when you talk to them ( Fiberglass/Evercoat). It should work...but that is why I am taking the time so you can make the right call and call Fiberglass/Evercaot directly.

"DUB"

 

Agreed.

If I followed the instruction of the local paint store they would have me paint it the same as a metal car and etch prime (destroying) the fibreglass!

I called tech support and got a wealth of info.

In addition I have also recieved many great tips from DUB of this forum.

 

Hi Dub,
I looked over the MSDS for Slick Sand and it doesn't say that its a Vinyl Ester product, just a polyester based product for fiberglass and SMC. I called Evercoat about a year ago and they told me they do not make any vinly ester based products, they add methacrylate to their SMC products to bite into the SMC. I believe vinly ester products are compatable with polyester, its basically just a stronger ester molecule chain. As you know, CI went to vinyl ester resin awhile back to try to reduce their blister problems.

Cheers,
Scott

 

Gentlemen,

Thank you for all of the feedback. I appreciate it.

I got interested in the Slick Sand because I had read about it in a number of forums. What I am attempting to do is smooth out the surface by using this "high build" polyester primer followed by block sanding. I have stripped all of the paint off and for the most part, the body is not that bad (I have owned the car since 1971 and it has been in storage since 1979).

The comments that I read about Slick Sand were that it builds and sands relatively easy, but that you must use a gun with a large tip because it is very thick.

If there is a better way to accomplish this (urethane primer, etc), I would appreciate any advice.

I have an older DeVillblis siphon gun (2.0mm tip) that I was going to use for primer. I have a newer Finishline HVLP gun (1.4mm tip) for the base and clear.

Once again....thanks in advance for any help. The last car I painted was my sons $500 beater. That was 12 years ago.

 

If you're open to suggestions, I can tell you what worked on my '71.

All edges and larger repairs were done with resin & mat. Never try using filler where you should use resin & mat, it will shrink and crack. Once all the big jobs were done, we used dynatron dynaglass as a rough filler due to its strength. On top of that to fix minor imperfections, dynatron dyna-delite. This sands were nicely and gives a surface ready for primer.

For a primer we used PPG K36 which is a urethane 2K primer that has some build qualities to it. The K36 was blocked and we shot more K36 and kept blocking until it was all straight.

The paint was PPG base/clear and turned out very nice.

I'm not saying this is the only way to do a C3, but it sure worked on mine.

 

Zwede,

Thanks very much for the feedback. As you mentioned, there are probably a number of ways to approach this and a I appreciate hearing what worked for you. I think there is a local PPG dealer. I will check it out this week.

Thanks again.

 

Scott,
Well that is news to me...because when I talked to them for a while the tech DID mention that the "slick sand" was a vinyl ester....and was different than the "featherfill" I will call them on Monday...because I DO NOT want to mis-inform anyone. Thanks for your feedback....it is improtant to all of us. Thanks for correcting me.

West Penna Vette:
You are on the right track ( in my opinion) by using a high build primer and not a urethane primer. Will will achieve a much higher build faster and still be able to sand it. AS for your 2.0 gun that is siphon feed...that MAY be a problem due to the gun having to draw the product up and then atomize it....versus is being a gravity feed gun which just uses air pressure to atomize the product. The 1.3 gun MAY be to small....and if you thin the product (which I do on the type I use...but use a gravity feed 2.1 gun) may require an additional coat or two (with good flash time) due to the mix is thinned and will still build ..but will need more coats. I thin my high build polyester primer so that when I am applying it...it does not come out so heavily textured and lays flat. I prefer this instead of the primer being rough because it makes it easier for me to block sand and get right....and still has great build. Everybody has their way of doing things.


If and when you apply your primer ...and if you are using a polyester primer. MAKE SURE that you mix only what you need for each application...especially if it is hot in your area. AND what ever you do...do not leave the primer in the gun while you wait for the primer to flash. It CAN harden up or thicken in the gun. Larger volumes of this type of primer build up heat and can "kick off" quicker than that of the thin applications on the panels you applied it to. AND...when I do my priming... I take the time and use acetone to do a quick and thorough rinse out of the gun and make sure that the cup,head/air cap of the gun is clean...all for the same reasons mentioned above. This is so when you are done...you are not wastiing a lot of tiime cleaning your gun because the primer has had a chance to dry on your gun and now it will be a ROYAL pain to get clean. SO that is why I rinse it out EVERY time I am done with a coat...so my final clean-up is a snap. And the acetone I used to rinse my gun will be used fore the next mix of primer...so it is not wasted.

Zwede:
The one thing about this forum is that people can give their opinions and experiences and what worked for them. By no means am I perfect...and the way I do things is the ONLY way it should be done. Over the years of doing Corvette repair...I have tried several methods and materials...and have found a system that works for me. Though we use different materials...as long as the result comes out with excellent results...it really does not matter what is used. You are a testimonial to what you used ...as the same as I am in what I use. Both work! At least we all can agree that lacquer priimer is a no-no....unless you are going to keep it in a museum...under a controlled enviroment. I do agree completely that matt and resin should be used for any structural crack. It seems that we are all on the same page in giving West Penna good advice...and I commend him for asking....along with all of your feedback also Zwede. Life is full of options...pick one.

"DUB"

 

One other thing, although Slicksand and other poly primers say you can go right to a top coat they typicaly have a lot of talc so it will absorb paint, I would use a seal coat of epoxy over it.

Zwede, I'm curious why you skipped the DP first coat. I believe PPG recommends DP followed by K36 followed by DP as a sealer then paint.

Dub, let me know what you find out, I never get a warm fuzzy when I call Evercoats tech line, someone always has to get back to you with "the" answer", yeah Featherfill and the new G2 is a totally different animal, we won't ask Wayne about FeatherFill

 

Scott: DP being epoxy? I can see why they'd recommend epoxy on a metal car as it stops rust. But what would the point be on fiberglass? K36 bites fine onto fiber glass, never had any problems with adhesion.

BTW, K36 sprays great through a 2mm tip.

Dub: Yep. Many ways to skin the proverbial cat. BTW, lacquer primer does have a use, it makes a decent guide coat.

 

Once again.....thanks to everyone for the feedback and advice. I really appreciate it!

 

The reason to use epoxy on a fiberglass car first is to lock down the fibers similar to what spraying it with gelcoat does. Depending upon the car and the primer, little fiberglass hairs can poke through.

 

I've heard that about epoxy, but urethane primer locks it down too so why use 2 different primers?

 

Scott,
called Fiberglass/Evercoat and the information you stated about the "slick-sand" being a polyester base IS CORRECT. I would have sworn on my LIFE that they told me not too long ago that it was "vinyl-ester" based.

Sorry for the mis-information. BUT I SWEAR that is what I was told. I SWEAR!!! I do not froget about important information like that...and it really burn my backside!

Zwede:
I agree....I use only one type of priimer or gelcaot depending on the body material type. But that is just me....and like was has been written....to each his/her own.

"DUB"