When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Let me know what you felt was a good method or trick that helped remove the paint. I found that on the harder paints and primer if I supported the blade with my two fingers it allowed me to get the harder layers off.
I am currently in the process of stripping my 68. It has original paint + 2 repaints and it was very slow and difficult to razor blade it. I then tried using a heat gun to soften the paint and it works a whole lot better. I'm making almost no gouges and it comes off down to original primer. I then sand off most of the primer.
I clamped my blades in a pair of upside down Vise-Grips. The large handle lessened fatigue, and turning the pliers over made a perfect "slide-glide" allowing rapid removal with minimal damage. Simply replace the blade often as the paint chips get lodged in the crimp, and then the blade will gouge.
I got better results with my wife's hair drier than with a heat gun. If the paint is too cold it will "shatter" in small pieces as the razor blade moves.
With the proper amount of heat (hair dryer) the paint will "peel" off in long strips.
The heat gun I tried was too hot and I got a few nicks (nothing that isn't easily repairable). For the speed I worked at the hair dryer was best. YMMV.
(FWIW: Mine had the original paint plus two repaints.)
I found that dulling the corners of the razor blade reduced the tendency to gouge the body. Also I got LOTS of different shaped blade holders, as some holders allowed a better blade angle for different parts of the body.
I used a heat gun about 2" in front of the blade. The blade was held in a metal holder that had various angles for adjustment. I also wore gloves. Keep in mind the heat will also soften any bondo/resin repairs that are concealed by the paint. The thick brick-red colored surfacer the blade couldn't get off was removed with acetone/7441 scratch pad.
Go out and buy a collapsible inspection sticker razor knife. The type where the razor blade will close into the handle. They are cheap and you can bend the knife to get into hard to get curved areas if needed.
Just a thought....because holding the razor blade in your fingers is.....hard to do.
Go out and buy a collapsible inspection sticker razor knife. The type where the razor blade will close into the handle. They are cheap and you can bend the knife to get into hard to get curved areas if needed.
Just a thought....because holding the razor blade in your fingers is.....hard to do.
"DUB"
LOL, I use a holder for the blades but I use my two fingers to stiffen up the blade. Here are a couple of pictures.
LOL, I use a holder for the blades but I use my two fingers to stiffen up the blade. Here are a couple of pictures.
This appears to be a working method for you. My only concern is that with this added pressure and force being applied...that gouges to your fiberglass can occur. Hopefully you have worked out your method to perfection... because gouges and nicks to the body are a pain to deal with.
The only reason I mention about the razor blade holder...is because I have ACTUALLY seen guys strip a car by just holding onto the blade itself....and complaining about hand / finger fatigue. And using a tool like I had mentioned... alleviates the use of your finger tips due to the tool is much stouter than the razor blade holders that allow you to slide the blade in from the side. But to each his/her own....and I guess as long as the paint is stripped off....it is job well done.
I went to Harbor Freight and bought a "vaiety pack" of holders. This way I could tell which I felt comfortable with. I ended up using the one made like the inspection sticker remover because it was most comfortable and easier to handle for me.
A razor blade won't physically reach everywhere there is paint, I also used an "Official" Boy Scout pocketknife that I have had since childhood (Eagle Scout and Order of the Arrow BTW). The drop point blade tip and the awl blade both came in handy in the tighter areas. Be creative, think a bit and the correct tool will present itself.
TRUST ME...I have several types of razor blade holders....even the one pictured....and the BEST one of all ...is the type where the razor blade attachment portion closes INSIDE the handle portion. Basically closes in half...much like a pocket knife. This type I am mentioning is great because it gives you the option of bending the tool..so you can better remove the paint in areas of a reverse body roll....and it does it WITHOUT gouging. Also the blade is very well reinforced..and it secured my a thumb screw...so-to-speak. Can take heavy abuse.